Fuse block

Can't say I've ever had a problem with the fuse block on a 2 series! Maybe yours is just a bit of a dud?

They are a poor design, the contact area between the tips of the fuses and the holders is tiny, this wasn't a big deal in the '60's but once fuel injection and more powerful heater fans etc. come along the current draw was a lot higher and it didn't take much to end up with high resistance at the ends of the fuses.

I've seen many a melted fuse panel cover, usually over the main fuel pump fuse. Once LH-Jet came along they finally moved the fuse for the pump into a blade fuse holder in the engine bay. Why they persisted with the design right to the end of the 240 production run is beyond me.

I haven't come across anything that lends itself to fitting into the same location as the panel, I think the best bet would be to re-route all the wiring up behind the glovebox, and mount a couple of enclosed Narva blade fuse panels on a custom bracket. You could do it in such a way that the covers protruded down and you could cut slots into the under-dash felt for easy access.

Angus242164;93183 wrote
I haven't come across anything that lends itself to fitting into the same location as the panel, I think the best bet would be to re-route all the wiring up behind the glovebox, and mount a couple of enclosed Narva blade fuse panels on a custom bracket. You could do it in such a way that the covers protruded down and you could cut slots into the under-dash felt for easy access.

This is my thought exactly and what I have planned for the 245 I'm very slowly working on

Here's the thread I was thinking of:

http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-240-740-940-12/volvo-240-fusebox-update-snake-part-iv-so-79499/

Although apparently switching from the cheap plastic fuse bodies with aluminium strip (what I had in UK 240) to ceramics with brass/copper strips (what I have in Aus 240) does actually generally fix the problem.

Using the higher quality ceramic/copper fuses may help a little, but I still had problems when using them, they still get hot which causes the copper to oxidise a bit and eventually things melt and stop working.

jamesinc;93176 wroteCan't say I've ever had a problem with the fuse block on a 2 series!

Late model 140s had the same type of fusebox, and they had issues with the high current circuits (e.g heater fan, rear demist) and those fuses. Angus and Rico beat me to outlining the problems in detail.

When re-doing the 1800, I had a plan to order a harness from this crowd and be done with it.

http://www.hotrodwires.com/wiring-harnesses.html

@tbro, just an idea that might be worth your consideration -



Adding a pair of these 8-position fuse blocks to make up the original 16 total.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm//262353358543

The should fit where the original fuse box fits.

It would mean a bit of fiddle-farting about with the wiring, and adding some extra terminals of course,, but that side of car electrics isn't rocket science.

Hell, I may even do this for The Goat, and be rid of that rotten old fuse block forever...

Those blade fuse boxes should fit nicely

Fuse panel out of a Saab 9000 might also work. Maybe chop it in half or something.

This looks pretty straightforward, using the Ebay fuse blocks and a copy of TP 30057/1 from www.volvowiringdiagrams.com.

To keep the same fuse numbering, a join has to be made from the the last 3 fuses of the first block, to the first
2 fuses of the second block (terminal [30], AKA main battery feed). Or a second connection can be made from those 2 fuses on the second block straight to the [30] connection point on the LHF wheel housing via a separate wire.

As you can see below -

[X] (accessories, interruptable) feeds fuses 1 to 3.
[15] (ignition on) is fed via the fuse 11/12/13 bus to fuse 4,
The stand-alone in-tank pump circuit is via fuse 5.
[30] is fed to fuses 6 to 10.
[15] is jump fed to fuse 4 on the hot side, and fed to 11, 12, and 13.
A stand-alone accessoryposition is availabe at fuse 14.
[58] (light power) is fed to fuses 15 and 16.




As that oddly-dressed Russian rodent says on those TV ads, "Simples!"

It's worth remembering that there are two different length fuse panels used on 240's, I can't remember how many fuses each holds, but the shorter one carried over from the late 100 series, and was replaced by the longer one in either '78 or '79 I think.

Angus242164;93223 wroteIt's worth remembering that there are two different length fuse panels used on 240's, I can't remember how many fuses each holds, but the shorter one carried over from the late 100 series, and was replaced by the longer one in either '78 or '79 I think.

Yep - just checked Xoe; the 142 has a 12 fuse system, and The Goat has a 16 fuse system.

Angus242164;93223 wroteIt's worth remembering that there are two different length fuse panels used on 240's, I can't remember how many fuses each holds, but the shorter one carried over from the late 100 series, and was replaced by the longer one in either '78 or '79 I think.

I'd just put in a 16 fuse system and then you can use the extra fuses to separate out the power for relays for the head lights/fog lights and other things