Project GoaT (bgpzfm142's 1979 242GT)

Major Ledfoot · 2016-11-11T13:40:50+00:00

B6304 will fit nicely into it....

Major Ledfoot

The bench racing / thinking continues.

This (at [2]) is the 3514231 type of alt and AC compressor bracket, fitted to 740s up to about 1990.

This bracket was superceded by 9146215-0, which doesn't have as many item [3]s (i.e. 463909 rubber mounts) as this one, since the lower AC mount doesn't have three number [3]s, most notably at the bottom. The tensioner brackets and swing-arm [5] are different to above for 9146215 brackets too. Note how [5] above has a captive nut; in the later version, IMO it's a weaker part, since only the swing arm bolt hole is threaded.

The 3514231 bracket however uses 8 - yes, eight - rubber cushions. I'm thinking of using solid or poly bushings for the lower compressor mounts, and then genuine 463909s for the other 5 locations. Although the same bracket appears twice in the parts catalog - in Group {32} for the alternator and again in Group {87} for the AC compressor - the drawing for the alt mounting doesn't show the full story with the AC mounting, since the drawing for the alt mounting omits the inner lowest pivot point where a third rubber cushion is needed on that mounting plane.

See?

I gather this setup wasn't used on factory 240s since they had to leave room for the distributor on the block, but that isn't something I need to worry about here, since this engine won't have one.

If an alt will fit on the RH side of a 240 redblock install, a power steering pump should too.

In other news, ECUs and an EZ-K arrived by mail today, so I'll need to put the wasted spark board into the EZ-K, which will mean another forthcoming pictorial adventure.

carnut222

Interesting. I’d opt for solid mouting everything. In the early years I think engineers thought mounting everything on rubber cushions was good (reduced noise or vibration, and more tolerance to slight misalignment maybe was the thought?) Then they got smart and hard mounted everything to the block or head with as few brackets and mounts as possible with the advent of serpentine belts with the spring-loaded adjuster. Much simpler, cheaper, and less prone to multiple mount failures. I’d like to try the solid aluminium mounts to replace the rubber ones some day, but last engine I did in the yellow 245 I just used the poly mounts as I had them available.

deNs

I had the option of both using the earlier one - 3514231, with all bolt holes using bushings, or 9146215 that I had on my '98 B230FK and chose the latter simply because there was (probably?) a reason Volvo did it, and I intended hard-mounting everything anyway so less solid bushes to buy was money in the pocket. Link to my post where I compared them both though I think you've seen it already..

No idea how any of it would work into a 240, but I haven't had an issue with that setup yet, in terms of vibration on that side of the engine. Have you got both brackets at your disposal or would you have to buy it? I wouldn't say it's worth shelling out the cash for the later one if you don't have it - the cost of more poly bushings is probably less than sourcing the later bracket.

Chuck whatever you have in and see if it fits? My searching hasn't turned up an example yet but only conflicts I've seen are with B21/23 engines and trying to use the later bracket, as they're missing some of the mount points on the block.

Major Ledfoot

Thanks for the reminder @deNs - great how you show clear pics of both.

I already had a 3514231 bracket, and although I could tear a later model bracket off of a spare engine, I want to make use of this one which would otherwise loiter in the shed. Although the alt rubbers show some signs of age, it's the 3 lower rubbers to which the compressor mounts which are in worse shape. This may explain why the Volvo Ghods decided to solid mount the compressor in the revised version.

Roinik

I can't fathom why they moved from the solid mounts on the 140 and most other cars.

Major Ledfoot

"I know engineers - they love to change things!"

Roinik

Hey, I resemble that remark!

Major Ledfoot

...and nearly 2 years later, imminent progress!

I've put forth some of the parts orders for the Project GoaT Engine, some of which looks like this.
Image description

(Well, that's part of the shopping list, anyway....)

The FCP, Yoshifab, and Skandix orders are in, and the CVI and VP Auto orders are yet to be done. I'm still hunting 'round for the best price on pistons and the ability to deliver them without a long wait.

The PGE will have the following spec::

ex-242GT H cam
530 head with new valves, new valve springs, and new seats; cc'ed chambers; port matched to manifolds
LH 2.4 with Dave Barton wiring harness
B234 injectors
wasted spark ignition using the Bijlsma Technical Innovations system and EZ-116K
L-bock with squiters
030 oversize with shot-peened 12mm rods and Mahle pistons
block drilled for oil supply and drain to allow later turbo fitting
standard type inlet manifold without a cold start injector
zero balancing of entire reciprocating assembly

Here's where the holes will be put in the block -

Image description

Hole 1a will be drilled and tapped to take a M14 x 1.5 fitting, which is the same as the factory FT blocks.
Hole 1b will be drilled to a diameter of 25.15mm, and a Yoshifab Dash 10 turbo drain fitting will go in there.

Reckon this sounds okay?

The plan is to end up with something which makes adequate power, and which will easily allow itself to have a turbo setup added later. Which is why the block's being drilled now, while it's already out of the car.

I want the dashboard to remain original looking, with it's mechanical speedo. So I followed Timbo's suggestion and got a Brantz BR4 impulse sender to attach to the speedo cable. It will sit between the AW70 and the speedo cable and provide the VSS (via a home-brew pulse multiplier box) which LH 2.4 requires to calculate load.

I've also worked out a way to easily connect up the unused EGR light on the pre-81 dash cluster as a Check Engine light. The cluster's 'Choke' warning lamp is being re-purposed as the AW70's 'overdrive disengaged' indicator.

Speaking of the dash - I'm getting a dash top reconditioned by Dashboard Recovering Services in Sydney, so the dashboard will lack any cracks.

Hopefully, all the bits will arrive before Australia Day and then I can cart the whole caboodle off to the machine shop.

After the engine's in, it'll be time to deal with some rust areas while getting a closed door respray.

jamesinc

You can also tap the block to 3/4" NPT and fit an NTP-to-AN male-male adapter for the turbo oil drain, rather than the yoshifab kit. Given you are making a new hole and not having to work with what's there already, you can do whatever you want!

You could also downsize and do 1/2" NPT to -10AN with an angle, which will be nicer for hose routing.

Image description

Forg

This having been the first time reading through this thread ... I have a question totally segueing from recent activity! 🙂

Are you sure it wasn't an automatic from new?
A friend of mine bought one of those which Volvo converted when new to attempt to sell a few as they were slow sellers, and it was a 1979-built MY79 like the GoaT is. We were surprised they'd gone to the effort of swapping over the firewall infill panel which is different between manual & auto, so there was 1979-spec sealant & we had to drill the hole for the clutch master cylinder.

Major Ledfoot

Forg Are you sure it wasn't an automatic from new?

Reasonably sure, yes.
I have two 242GTs - The GoaT, which I bought as a running B23E with BW55, and Rudie, another 79 242GT but very non-running.

When I bought Rudie, he was fitted with a B21 (?!?) and M46, and a lot of weird bits - like non-GT sedan seats, a poorly-installed LPG tank in the boot, no petrol tank, and a crazy-arsed double rear sway bar setup.

Hence the name 'Rudie' for that car, as the mods previously done to him are very rude. (Need to clear that up, because it's definitely not any Eggenberger reference...)

The automatic GTs - which were retrofitted with BW55s in OZ - had their model plates altered.
The GoaT got its auto after she was sold by a dealer. Her firewall hatch plate has a blanking plate where the clutch cylinder used to go.

But Rudie was actually modified by Volvo Oz.
How do you tell?
GoaT's plate is on the left of pic; Rudie's is on the right.
Image description
GoaT's plate shows type 242-844-5122-46 (B23E, H cam, M46, market 46 = Australia)
But Rudie's plate shows 242-844-5182-46.
The "8" indicates it's an auto, and that change was done by Volvo Australia (AFAIK).

So it appears Rudie was originally sold as an auto, long before he came into my possession, and then someone put a bloody B21 into it along with the LPG and other butchery, and changed the auto over to an M46.

@volvdriverman wants another 242 racer over here, and eventually that will be Rudie... hopefully before the heat death of the known universe. (Things don't happen 'round here as rapidly as they do at Spac's or Mister Brick's).

Major Ledfoot

Parts for the Project GoaT Engine have been arriving steadily.

Image description

I decided to use a KL Racing crank pulley on it, sourced from @AshDVS, since I'm not really happy with the two spare pulleys I have for using in the long term - reliability is key for this engine. First oversize pistons have been ordered from Skandix and are pending arrival - another supplier couldn't deliver slugs for delivery until June.

FCP offer a complete PCV kit, which includes a breather box, all the clamps, the O rings, the flame trap and nipple, and the hoses (including the big'un that drops down into the sump).

The ultrasonic cleaner has been getting a bit of a workout, and the oil cooler filter extension arms has cleaned up nicely, as has the front seal cover.

Image description

Next to go for a swim will be the throttle body, and then I'll need to whip it apart and add the husher to the spindle as a seal, so then it's up to turbo spec.

There's still a few more odds and sods to order. What's funny is how not one of The Usual Suspects (i.e. FCP, VP Auto, CVI, Skandix, and Rock Auto) had stock of everything I needed - for example, there's a hex plug for the oil gallery (p/n 940375-2) which is only stocked by GCP or the Volvo Parts Webstore. (I know better than to go to the local dealer who'll charge $100 paid in advance for a $5 part, and then make me wait 6 months for it).

Hopefully my Yoshifab order is underway now too. I'd decided to get the B230 NA block drilled in the factory locations for the turbocharger's oil supply and drain, which allows an easier addition for +T at a later time, if desired. Since the block is going off to be machined anyway, I might as well get that done too.

On the (long!) to-do-list also is adding the Bijlsma Technical Innovations wasted spark board to the LH 2.4 EZ-K, so I never have to worry about a distributor again. Pics when that happens.

GingerNinja

Might be worth getting the KL Racing steel crank gear and woodruff key to match your aluminium pulley. Then you don't have to worry about shearing off the stock cast gear. Minimal engine explosion.

Major Ledfoot

GingerNinja - I'm putting a new woodruff key in there, but a standard one. This thing isn't going to see a lot of revs - well, not in my hands at least. I'm going with a round toothed timing belt system, which is surplus after one of the other locks is going B230 16V, so I'll make use of the spare 8V gears.

« Previous Page