GingerNinja
Finally got my engine back from the builder. The bloke recommended using a high Zinc break in oil, warming the car up for 15 minutes or so with the idle at about 1500rpm for proper oil pressure while it's warming up. Then drive it around without excessive rpm or getting too much heat in it. After about 800km it should be good to go. Does this sound about right? Any other tips?
Spac
You're supposed to avoid too much load too (don't lug it).
I've heard lots of knowledgable people say you should do the initial break-in gently, and then drive it like you plan on using it.
Philia_Bear
Penrite hpr10 full syn high zinc oil for ever
jamesinc
I think Volvo specify a 30 minute break in at high idle, then check the valve shims and head bolt torques? I don't think anyone ever bothers to do the second bit though.
Vee_Que
Do as the builder says, as long as he warranties it. For me, high idle, and a decent run on a freeway not in top gear,for about 30mins is enough.
carnut1100
When i was younger Dad used to rebuild engines.
His method was always several minutes at high idle while he checked everything was good then a run if about 10km where it was run up and down the Rev range at medium load, usually in 3rd gear from 30 to 70 kmh or so for the initial bed in.
Then it would get a couple of hundred km of gentle driving with no more than 3/4 throttle and no lugging before an oil change and life on the road.
All of his engines lasted well....
GingerNinja
Thanks for all the advice. Should keep me out of trouble.
carnut1100
Biggest thing is first oil change is very soon.
No matter how well the edges were broken and galleries cleaned etc, there will be little bits of metal floating around in a fresh engine as it all settles in.
Oil is cheap. Engines aren't.
Oil change at 500km MAX.
robv
High idle run until you get to full operating temperature. Drive normally. Don't let engine idle for long periods you want load on the engine during run in. After ist complete cool down retention inlet and exhaust manifolds. After about 100kms change oil and go for it.
Fingers
carnut1100;76168 wroteWhen i was younger Dad used to rebuild engines.
His method was always several minutes at high idle while he checked everything was good then a run if about 10km where it was run up and down the Rev range at medium load, usually in 3rd gear from 30 to 70 kmh or so for the initial bed in.
Then it would get a couple of hundred km of gentle driving with no more than 3/4 throttle and no lugging before an oil change and life on the road.
All of his engines lasted well....
That's really close to my theory, except I use 500 km as the oil change point and then it's WOT and give it a hard time.
Fingers
Just read your next post and you mention 500 km... DOH!
jamesinc
I was always told to change oil after 30 minutes break in. Swarf and other detritus will break free almost immediately once the engine starts moving and pumping oil.
carnut1100
Yeah.
A lot of engine builders reckon full it with cheap oil then do your first bed it in run then dump the oil and put new stuff in then run it for your 500km of not lugging or thrashing (or holding it at one speed for too long like a freeway drive! ) and then changing again.
Personally for the cost of an engine build is be tempted to do that, am extra 50 bucks in oil is nothing in comparison and yes the bulk of the swarf is going to break free in the first half hour and then nearly all of the rest over the next few hundred km..
Slowbrick
The 245 had its engine broke in by towing 2 motorbikes about 700kms to a national park. I started it the night before and warmed it up and all that so I suppose I didnt do it completely wrong hahahaha!
Vee_Que
What swarf will there be? when they are built you are literally cleaning everything before assembly.
On trucks /buses, engines when rebuilt get started on high idle, a freeway run, and then given to bus drivers....
Slowbrick
I didn't notice any swarf in the 245's engine when I changed the oil. I used a magnetic drain plug too. Maybe you are getting swarf if your components dont quite fit right. I'm not a pro engine builder so I cant comment from much experience.
jamesinc
I'm saying if there is anything, it would come loose almost immediately wouldn't it? No there shouldn't be any swarf. Still, can't go wrong with a magnetic plug.
Vee_Que
The filter will pick the rest up. But the oil gallerys etc will be very clean before Going together. Otherwise, seizure..
Major Ledfoot
Breaking in / running in new engines is also partially to do with heat cycling the components - getting the engine up to full normal operating temp, then letting it cool, repeat.
IIRC, the old BMW turbo F1 engines back in those halcyon days of the eighties, with 1500 BHP from 1.5 litres, used old road car blocks which had received many heat cycles before they saw F1 use.
I've also read that the first few seconds of a new or rebuilt engine's running will determine its longevity, and this can be assisted by ensuring the oil galleries are up to pressure before starting the engine.
jamesinc
I forget with redblocks - is it just the B21/23 where they say to run it at OT for 30 minutes, then re-torque the head bolts, or is that a B230 thing too?
