Redblock engine break in?

GingerNinja · 2016-06-01T10:07:11+00:00

You're supposed to avoid too much load too (don't lug it). I've heard lots of knowledgable people say you should do the initial break-in gently, and then d...

Philia_Bear

jamesinc;76539 wroteI forget with redblocks - is it just the B21/23 where they say to run it at OT for 30 minutes, then re-torque the head bolts, or is that a B230 thing too?

Not a b230 thing

GingerNinja

bgpzfm142;76513 wroteI've also read that the first few seconds of a new or rebuilt engine's running will determine its longevity, and this can be assisted by ensuring the oil galleries are up to pressure before starting the engine.

What's the best way to prime the oil system? Take the plugs out and turn it over by hand or does it need more rpm?

Major Ledfoot

GingerNinja;76553 wrote What's the best way to prime the oil system? Take the plugs out and turn it over by hand or does it need more rpm?

Plugs out, cam belt off, spin the aux shaft using a drill or similar so that just the oil pump (and not the entire dry assembly) is turning.

Andy

Get driving as soon as possible to get the engine oil up to temp. Perform 30 minutes of half load accels (50-60 manifold kpa) and keep the engine speed under 3500rpm. Followed by an hour of full load accels up to 4500 rpm. Make sure you aren't loading the engine continuously for any period longer than 10 seconds at a time. You want to increase the combustion pressure as high as possible (without detonation) to force the rings out into the bores.

The best performing engines that Ford have come by are from ex rental cars that have been thrashed from the get go. These engines always burn the least oil, and have the best compression and more importantly minimal sludge formation around the ring packs. I'm stating the advice from the durability guys at work who back up their claims by data, not guessing.

After you have performed the initial break in, feel free to fully load the engine through the next 600-800ks whilst keeping the engine speed below 4500rpm. Ensure you don't fully load the engine for anymore than 10 seconds as you want time for the metal filings to fall into the oil pan

All this idling away for hours is a load of rubbish.

Vee_Que

So you're now an engineer at ford?

So what's the reason to keep the revs down if you are meant to thrash it from day one?

robv

You don't thrash from the start but important to load up the rings, Long periods of idle and no load cause shiny or even polished bores.
When we built formula vee engines, Ten laps mid load 3/4 revs . Stop, oil change tappet set and go for it. In America with the formula Atlantics with Bda cosworths, dyno run, oil change , head retention fit to car and go racing.
Everybody seems to say similar things, most importantly is 1st hundred km's don't thrash it. Change the oil and drive it trying to maintain some load for 1st 1000km.
Oil is cheap, change as often as you want,

Vee_Que

In the real world, Just going to and from work I go from a steady quick drive to heavy traffic in the evening and stop start... And that would be the case for most people and cars. to keep it under some load at all times can be quite difficult.

In my next specific instance, I'll be putting a freshly built b20-21 into a new body with new ignition and untuned carbs.... The chance to wash down the bore is high, especially compared to diesel motors that have set pump timing. But i won't have much choice as the sus off the b18 and points dizzy won't be enough for the heavily modified Motor..

On trucks and buses, I've been told multiple different things, even by the manufacturer recommendations, either way they go back to the customer/into the fleet before 100kms. And..... They don't burn oil or have issues related. But they are loaded in the literal sense with heaps of stop start driving.

carnut1100

No matter how carefully you clean the engine internals there will be tiny metal particles from the initial bedding in. The rings will not perfectly fit the boresand will wear slightly into each other. Sharp edges will break down and so forth.
There WILL be more small metal particles in the first hour or two of engine life than at any other time except failure.

Andy

Vee_Que;77721 wroteSo you're now an engineer at ford?

So what's the reason to keep the revs down if you are meant to thrash it from day one?

Yes I work at Ford.

Keeping the revs below 4500 will protect the rotating assembly. Even though the bearings are pretty precise they may have slight circumferential high spots, and will take a while to wear down. Last thing you want is to tear up the bearing material.

Vee_Que

Considering how many job losses there were at holden engineering. I'm suprised ford would hire! Congrats.

And that makes sense, considering the motors I do only rev to a max of 4k, and the last v8 I did i never started. Its never seemed relevant i guess.

GingerNinja

So I changed the oil at 500km and I'm glad I did. It looked like heavy black miso soup with a nice sludge on the magnetic drain plug. I've put about 1200km on the fresh engine so far. Is it too soon to switch to full synthetic oil?

ab1

Does this differ for the pushrod redblocks at all?

Anthony

GingerNinja;88732 wrote...I've put about 1200km on the fresh engine so far. Is it too soon to switch to full synthetic oil?

Good question, but I would go longer on the 2nd load of oil, (3,000-500) so you would do around 2,500km on this oil fill then change to synthetic.

Vee_Que

@ab1 not really no.

And synthetic or not... Makes little difference...

jamesinc

Synthetic oil blows clear smoke and gets you through inspection ;)

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