Ramrod is 100% correct about the strut mounts
My 240 had the original mounts when I bought it and they eventually failed at just over 400,000kms
I got new genuine volvo ones and within about 10,000kms the rubber had cracked badly, I have read lots of reports of the same thing.
I then tried to order a set of the bne kaplenhke ones but 12 months after taking my money he still didn't have them in stock, despite telling me every month or so that they were not far off, so I got my money back
Do K-Mac do the strut mounts?
Angry reacts only.
I'm much less angry about the rust hole than I am about having to remove the dash again! Maybe I'll just glue a milk bottle over it instead.
Time for quick disconnect dash?
Bugger! That's why I delete that water-trapping foam on all mine like the factory did starting in about 1990. Why do you need to remove the dash? That hole goes into the plenum chamber, so any water going in there shouldn't end up inside the car...well, it may end up in the heater box...yes, bugger! Now I see!
Dash out and hvac out and you can paint the back side of the patch. Orobably also a bunch of smuts built up as well for it to hage rusted out in the first place.
At least its an easy location to paint the back side v's the corners of that cavity. I know the pain all to well :(
carnut222Bugger! That's why I delete that water-trapping foam on all mine like the factory did starting in about 1990. Why do you need to remove the dash? That hole goes into the plenum chamber, so any water going in there shouldn't end up inside the car...well, it may end up in the heater box...yes, bugger! Now I see!
I want to remove the dash to make sure I dont miss anything on the inside and to make sure I dont set my new dash on fire when I weld it back up. Its nowhere near as bad as what ive been working with on the HQ but still slightly annoying.
VolvoHordzDash out and hvac out and you can paint the back side of the patch. Orobably also a bunch of smuts built up as well for it to hage rusted out in the first place.
At least its an easy location to paint the back side v's the corners of that cavity. I know the pain all to well :(
Yeah it looks pretty easy to get to with the hardest part going to be unpicking and resealing the seam on the top cowling. I was going to tidy up and repaint the engine bay anyway so after ive done all the suspension and other jobs ill come back to this. Figured now its been exposed and painted it cant get much worse.
Nothing a grinder, bottle of bunnings gas and a Joe Rogan podcast cant fix hahahah
Our you could just channel Vice Grip Garage and either say "I'll pretend I didn't see that" or screw an old number plate on too6 of it and call it good...
There is weld through gal spray that heals itself , Wūrth have it , the cans are very heavy!
Slowbrickhttps://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/285/1S8P1T8A54CM.jpg
Angry reacts only.
I'm much less angry about the rust hole than I am about having to remove the dash again! Maybe I'll just glue a milk bottle over it instead.
Damn, what a biach of a place to get a rust hole. And unusual; the more common place for metal cancer in that area is on the horizontal panel above - i.e. below the windscreen, just past the join.
Recently I cut that section out of a parts car body to repair another car which has rust in that horizontal panel.
ChrisOur you could just channel Vice Grip Garage and either say "I'll pretend I didn't see that" or screw an old number plate on too6 of it and call it good...
I do have a few old plates here that I could use and a big tube of marine sealant hahaha
Ex850RThere is weld through gal spray that heals itself , Wūrth have it , the cans are very heavy!
Ive been using Dymark brush on zinc primer for the HQ. Agreed that the cans are very heavy for how small they are!
Major Ledfoothttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/186177#Comment_186177
Damn, what a biach of a place to get a rust hole. And unusual; the more common place for metal cancer in that area is on the horizontal panel above - i.e. below the windscreen, just past the join.
Recently I cut that section out of a parts car body to repair another car which has rust in that horizontal panel.
Yeah it is a strange place for it to rust and was most likely caused by the sound deadening holding onto moisture. Either way doesnt look impossible to fix so ill just patch it up later.
Rusty hole be gone! A bit of body filler to smooth it out and it will be good as gold!
Eheheheh yeah boi we back together baby.
This is what scope creep looks like. Started out just preparing the engine bay for paint when I "decided" it would be a good idea to also clean up and paint underneath so I have a nice base to start from that doesn't include 30 years of rear main seal soaked sound deadening.
Grinder with coarse wire wheel makes short work of it but far out the mess! I'm sure it will be all worth it when it's all nice and clean under there...maybe... probably not.
Do it once do it right
After the rust hole I found in the firewall I dont really want to chance it again especially living so close to the ocean. My plan is to knock a little bit off at a time until the front half of the car is done and then paint it. Then when Im working on the rear half of the car Ill drop the diff and the fuel tank and do the rear half little by little with the plan to have it all cleaned and painted by the time new stuff is ready to be installed.
Coat everything in fish oil.... its how the fish prevent themselves from rusting
Oil soaked things general don't rust as much I find!
Land rovers are made from composite rust
