Hi all,

I've got an 82 240 with the B23E which has developed a hole in the EGR line (I believe). I've been told the EGR system is fairly useless and better off removed, especially now I need to deal with it anyway. My question is: does anyone have detailed instructions or information they would be willing to share on how to remove the system? Which parts can be removed and how do I block the ports? I've done some searching on and I could only find some vague comments on this thread: https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/39751/#Comment_39751
Thanks for any help!

PS: Just to confirm the EGR line is here in red? Would I be correct in assuming the blue is the valve?
Confirmed that is the valve and pipe

Why do you think it has a leak in the EGR pipe?
It's making a light almost fluttering kind of sound, definitely seperate to the engine revving. When it first developed I wasn't sure and wanted to be on the safe side, NRMA guy determined it was the EGR line. I took it into the shop and they wanted 350 to remove and replace the line, so I'd rather completely remove it if its appropriate to do so.
light fluttering would be the air injection system
I block the ports in the exhaust manifold with 5c coins. They fit perfectly.

On the inlet side, you need to weld the bung closed, or alternatively just find the proper size bung on ebay.
Sounds more like a PulseAir issue, but could be either. That EGR pipe often rusts out behind the engine. It's easy and satisfying to remove both.

A parts overview. No need to remove the exhaust manifold.


5c coins with some maniseal:


Intake side plugged:


And exhaust:

I'll try to pinpoint the noise a little more next week to make sure, thanks a lot for the info and pics @Dauntless. I don't have access to a welder, what size bung would be needed to plug up the intake side? Would it be a cap that goes over it or something on the inside diameter? Thanks for the help guys
I'm not sure. The local bolt shop couldn't get anything the correct size. I think the large intake and exhaust fittings are the same. The engineering shop welded them up in about 2 minutes, cost me $10.
When I deleted it, I got the original fitting that was there, and tapped the middle out to whatever metric thread, then screwed a bolt into it. Worked a charm
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