Red block 2 pulley harmonic balancer

guru

Do they exist, and if so who has one cheap that's not buggered? Clearance issues..

AshDVS

Do you want an aluminium underdrive one?

guru

Ummm idk? . Ill try to work out how to post a pic. I have a B230ft with 3 pulley one on front.

BradC

Why not take your existing one to a machine shop, get it chucked up in a lathe and have the front sheave turned off? 15 minutes work at most. If you were in Perth I'd do it for you.

guru

I assume id have to get it rebalanced?

guru

Ash, it would be the under drive one the same as the aluminium one on he 16v on your facebook page,, but that appears 3 pulley.

Could lift the motor but don't really want it any higher.

Smaller (dia) balance r would be nice but I assume id have to get a new water pump pulley also.

BradC

Probably. To be honest I hadn't looked to see how it was balanced.

guru

the old drill a bit of metal out method. drill holes visible on balancer

BradC

In which case, yeah it'd need to be re-balanced. What are you bumping up against?

guru

as per image above - the sway bar, B230ft into 142 upright mount

Vee_Que

How have others done it? I don't know why it would be hitting. The box is in too?

Major Ledfoot

guru;53748 wroteas per image above - the sway bar, B230ft into 142 upright mount

Haven't done the same swap myself yet. Mine is in the planning and parts acquisition stages. Seeing the pulley hitting the sway in your photo is a worry, since I was planning to use a 3-row crank pulley too...

Are you using the Yoshifab adapter plates to fit the B230 to the 142? <p>

Vee_Que;53757 wroteHow have others done it? I don't know why it would be hitting. The box is in too?

This is why I'm curious to find out if @guru used Yoshifab engine mount adapter plates, or made his own. Plan A for me was to go Yoshifab, but that could change now.

KL Racing do sell a 2-row underdrive crank pulley for about 895 SEK (or about $142 AUD, at time of posting). Hope to do some shopping there while visiting for VROM.

guru

Made similar engine mounts to yoshifab off photos as they are just plates with holes, bolted alloy 140 mounts to it, tried to fit them didnt fit , notveven close, then read a bit more and the people who purchased them had to use the 240 offset engine mounts ( rubber), then one edge had to be packed up..doesn't look a good fit so decided am going to fab some new ones myself.Especially seeing the 140 motors had a lot of movement in the mounts There are pics on turbo bricks I think of the fit.. I have a w51 toyota box behind it, as that was attached to the b20 that came out. Flywheel off 140 8 bolt a bolt on swap. I just need the balancer on front to then properly locate the engine to fab the mounts.. If it' a 72 model as mine is,( small bumper) there are clearance issues with the brake bar that goes on firewall motor clearance that is, but with engine where it is I should be able to reconnect it... if its earlier with the long master cylinder adaptor it would work better but i would still be looking at a smaller booster (120 y perhaps) just for space reasons . custom exhaust manifold needed as steering box fouls turbo on early manifold. Looking at the b21 inlet perhaps modifying same as 740 one doesn't look good and don't want to pay for a complete fab on an inlet manifold. Happy to talk on what I have found.

guru

Just thought the early 240s might have had 2 pulley one, not three??. The outside one is for power steering or air con.

guru

Vee_Que;53757 wroteHow have others done it? I don't know why it would be hitting. The box is in too?

Most of the ones I see on net a lhd, steering box on other side. Not much info on how, or on pulleys. I am looking to mount engine as kow as possible to clear brake bar thing on firewall ( if you know what I'm talking about. )

Angus242164

All factory B230 balancers are three groove, so you won't find an OEM solution.

I wouldn't machine one down, they have a tendancy to become un-vulcanised as it is, by reducing the rubber contact area that issue is much more likely to occur.

I would buy one of the aftermarket aluminium ones, ideally a two groove one if it's available, if not get a three groove one and get a local machinist to machine the front off with a lathe, won't cost too much.

B21/23 have a pulley setup that is much more adaptable for one, two or three grooves, but unfortunately won't fit your B230, as the crank snout design is different.

Early 140's didn't have the brake crossover bar on the firewall, and instead had a bloody long extension tube that places the booster and master behind the RH headlight. That might be worth considering for engine swaps of this nature, to allow the engine to sit slightly further back.

guru

Thx angus

AshDVS

guru;53743 wrote Ash, it would be the under drive one the same as the aluminium one on he 16v on your facebook page,, but that appears 3 pulley.

Not the same, but quite close. drop me an email if you like and I can provide some options. A smaller pulley is probably going to help things too if you're struggling with clearance.

guru

Thx ash I will. The crossover bar has about 5mm clearance to the top or the rocker cover as it sits, engine is about where it needs to be with an inch or so clearance to the firewall. With no cas on the back that is