Solved.. No start, 5yr lay up

Ramrodfunk · 2024-12-14T05:14:47+00:00

'93 240 wagon. I' ve got my wagon back together but no start. It's been around 5yrs since it last started. I've changed the timing belt seals and belts....

jamesinc

If you've got fuel pressure, check for spark, then check for fuel injector pulse, if you have some random small 12V bulb with leads that you can connect to one of the 2pin injector plugs, use that, or you can get a noid light like this one: https://sparesbox.com.au/products/toledo-noid-light-bosch-2-307234

Ramrodfunk

jamesinc I've got a light tester type thing. It could be a noid tester. It looks like a pen with an aligator clip.

Thinking about it that might explain why I'm getting pressure pulses from the exhaust but seemingly no fuel, doesn't smell of fuel and no burnt fuel gasses.

Ramrodfunk

jamesinc If the injectors are not firing what would be the next step?

Ramrodfunk

ramrod Well I haven't given up on doing it myself yet. What Jamesinc said makes sense.

I'm still going to crack on by myself for the moment. I'm hopeful I can finish it. Cheers.

jamesinc

Next steps would be check switched 12V at the coil, check power to the ECU, check the manifold grounds (fuel rail screws, there's two ground wires, one on each screw.

Then if still no spark or pulse, most likely your crank position sensor has failed and needs replacement.

Ramrodfunk

jamesinc Is there an easy way to access the CPS. I'm sure I've changed one before but it was a while ago.

All the videos I've seen are from the US, where the brake booster doesn't get in the way.

I think you jack the body up a bit without lifting the engine to give more room.

Anything else?

Major Ledfoot

Ramrodfunk All the videos I've seen are from the US, where the brake booster doesn't get in the way.

Go in from the left side, instead of the right side. You don't need to jack up the car or engine.

While you're there, check the condition of your heater hoses - in a 240, it's all squeezed in pretty tight - and if they've failed before and dumped coolant all over the RPM sensor and cabling, that might be why it's not working now. Coolant attacks the plastic wiring insulation and it fails.

jamesinc

I've always accessed it from the top, you don't need to see it so long as you can get a hand round to put the socket onto the end of the bolt.

(edit: it occurs to me that this might only be easy because I'm too tall)

Major Ledfoot

jamesinc I've always accessed it from the top

That makes perfect sense. (Maybe that's how I did it on The Heisenberg? 6+ years ago now....)

~~There's two 10mm bolts that need to be loosened - not removed - to slip the old sensor out of the alloy bracket.~~

EDIT: Nope; I was wrong above. There's a 10mm bolt on top of the sensor and behind the great lump on the sensor. You do need to remove that in order to replace the sensor.

I will add a pic below of what effect coolant has on the sensor insulation, a bit later.

Ramrodfunk

Solved……. Replaced the TPS but no joy.

So I turned to the one thing that I didn't think I needed to check…the ignition amplifier module.

Why didn't I check before, you ask. Before my car was laid up I had replaced the module. It cost me $200 at a well known Sydney Volvo specialist. It was used for 1-2 yrs then parked up for about 4-5 yrs.

I didn't think it would be the culprit.

I was able to take the module from my sedan and put it in the offending wagon.

A new one is on order.

However I am still concerned that my coil is incorrectly wired which may have lead to the module being fried(maybe) .

Please check my post regarding the coil wiring.

And on a side note. How anybody can get their hands between the firewall and the block is beyond me! Especially the meat platters on the big man, jamesinc.

Cheers

jamesinc

Ramrodfunk However I am still concerned that my coil is incorrectly wired which may have lead to the module being fried(maybe) .

Potentially. It would mean pin 1 of the ignition amplifier saw 12V rather than ground, and it probably relies on the coil to limit current.

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