At last I'm making real progress on getting my '93 240 wagon back on the road.

The radiator that I have installed is from a 740 (kindly donated and has a switch built into the rad.

Can this switch be used to activate an electic cooling fan in a similar way that I' ve seen 850 fans mounted onto 240's?

If so, how? I have an 850 fan and shroud and the 2 stage relays from 850. I don't have the input plugs for the relays. Can they be purchased somewhere?

Cheers

Short answer is “yes” you can do what you want to do. 🙂

Longer answer is that I’m not sure how. I don’t know what that switch is for, it may actually be a temp sensor that the ECU uses … others may know if there’s a separate module or something which can use the output from that sensor independently of the ECU.

Mebbe have a look around at aftermarket kits, what sensor(s) they can use to trigger the switch that turns the fan on & off?

I am not a fan of adding an electric fan to a vehicle that was not designed to have one.

It’s similar to me taking something that the manufacturer thought hard about to design and engineer something to work better than anything else and changing it because I must know better. I like to leave those systems alone, as long as they work correctly and do what is asked.

I’m afraid I cannot offer any other help regarding your question

    ramrod I am not a fan of adding an electric fan to a vehicle that was not designed to have one.

    Only because they were more expensive back then.

    Actually … given 740 runs pretty much the same cooling system, it seems pretty weird to me that a ‘93 240 didn’t have an e-fan!

    Problem with those clutch-fan thingies is you’re relying on a part which was only available for a car which went out of production over 30 years ago, but with electric a lot of parts you might need to replace are generic.

    Hey are ramrodfunk & ramrod related?!
    I guess one point, however, is that there’s not really any gain from doing the conversion if your existing cooling system’s fine. But if you DO convert it for some reason, don’t neglect the fan shroud, it’s more critical than you might think.

      ramrod Fortunately, the clutch fan hub is available new.

      While that's exactly what I'd fit if I had a standard engine which had one of those, what I'm wondering to myself about ALL of these parts is "how much longer?" ... when I first started taking Big Red to the mechanic I'm still using, probably about 18 years ago, anything & everything was available from the local parts place ... needed inner tie-rod end (I think?) for pink-slip last week and it needed to be flown up from Melbourne (the alternative being CCP parts of a brand which he said I'd need to replace in about 2 pink slips' time - even though it'd probably only have done 2000km on the part).

      But that's completely off topic. 🙂

      Can be done, fairly easily. Has been done LOADS of times. Spend some time searching the forum for examples, there are a few. The methods, and there will likely be more, are:

      • Davies Craig fan with some aluminium brackets made up to attach it to the rear (engine side) of the radiator.
      • 850 fan into a 240 shroud then mounting where the shroud goes (search the website for a story or article on this)
      • 940/960 fan and housing with the end neatly cut off (960 rad is much wider) and mounts to the radiator in a very factory looking manner. Having done all of these this is my preference. It is just neat and effective.

      As for running it:

      • Get an expensive Davies Craig computer controlled fan manager device thing (don't bother)
      • If you have LH2.4 (you should) get a late model ECU with a fan controller and use that to drive the relays. You will need to add a couple of pins into the wiring harness connector on the ECU - not very hard. The late 740 and most 940s had an electric fan and an ECU that drove it.
      • If the radiator is a Nissens then get a VW transporter radiator/fan switch (they are the correct thread) and use that with two relays. For fast speed and faster speed.
      • The push in 'factory' temp switch in the radiator is for very very hot when all else fails and it will turn on the electric fan regardless of what else is happening. The ECU should run the fan based off the engine coolant temp, the switch in the radiator is an emergency type switch. A few years ago I spent a lot of time searching parts catalogues for a push in switch at different temperatures to run the fan at normal temps. Nothing, there was one other part that was a similar push in though wrong temps. I also looked for threaded units that would fit in the rubber grommet/seal, nothing. The threaded Nissens was the go, I think it may have been 81 and 86 deg it turned each switch on, it was a while ago.

      Relays:

      • Use the 940/960 relay unit that has the huge power connectors in it. This is the preferred method. It is a little tricky to get the power cable (from the 960 relay unit) to the battery and have the relay in a neat spot in a 240. Ensure the wiring connector for the two switch wires is included, it is a pain if not.
      • Get a couple of big (50-70 Amps) relays and make up a harness using the rad switch or computer controls as the earth for the relays.

      My suggestion: find a 940/960 fan and shroud WITH the wiring harness and relay uncut - wreckers like cutting things, you need the relay with the three connectors in it (one to the fan uncut, one to the battery uncut and one to the ECU - cut this one). Grab an ECU from a late 940 or something that had an electric fan (the late ECU will work fine, they are all mostly the same). Run the two wires from the ECU to the relay. Remove the wobble weight from the waterpump (aka mechanical fan).

      As for a short answer to the 'can the push in temp switch be used for running an electric fan' then generally No.

      I've got a Davis craig stand alone fan controller I was using while diagnosing a cooling system problem. Worked perfectly with a 740 pusher fan and only cost $50 off the FB marketplace. It uses an included temperature probe that goes between the radiator fins.

      Once I solved the problem I returned the car to mechanical fan only which I found much more effective than the mechanical & electric fan setup.

      Forg Lol, not related.

      In both my 240's, on hot days in Sydney, the clutch fan seems to struggle and forget about air con especially when in traffic.

      Do they overheat? If so what temperature? Do you have an infrared thermometer?

      How old is the radiator?

      The clutch fan shouldn't be having any trouble even in 40 degree traffic, but equally I generally agree that clutch fans were used because they were cheaper and more reliable in the 70s, case in point Volvo switched to e-fans with redblocks for the last few years of RWD Volvo production.

      But anyway the radiator thermoswitch is exactly as the name implies, when the sensor experiences temp > N°C, the switch closes, when the sensor experiences temp < (N-5)°C, the switch opens.

      You can leverage this to switch an e-fan. You would use a SPST 4-pin relay, you would connect:

      • pin 30 to battery positive
      • pin 85 to e-fan positive, with the e-fan negative going to chassis/ground
      • pin 86 to your ignition coil positive pin (aka pin 15)
      • pin 87 to your thermoswitch, with the other thermoswitch pin connecting to chassis/ground

      In this way, when your ignition is on (represented by coil positive), and your radiator is hot, the thermoswitch closes, closing the 12V trigger circuit. This energises the relay, which closes the switch between pins 30 and 85, energising the e-fan circuit.

      Use any good 30A rated relay, you should also add a 30A circuit breaker between battery positive and relay pin 30.

      People act like e-fans are a big deal but they're easy to install and aside from inrush current they only draw a few amps, you can run them fine with stock 240 alternators.

      Edit: also, in my experience, they are better in every way. You usually don't need any fan at all unless it's stinking hot, or you're stuck in traffic, or you're hammering it. So you get some performance/fuel economy, but the other big difference is that they are way quieter. You don't realise how loud the mechanical fan is until you hear your car without it.

        jamesinc but the other big difference is that they are way quieter. You don't realise how loud the mechanical fan is until you hear your car without it.

        I didn’t realise ‘til well into my 20’s that the reason a Volvo 240 sounded like a 6cyl Falcon was the sound of the fan. 🙂