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'Minty' The 240 Wagon
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Still yet to split the intake side pipe to allow for engine movement and stop the chance of damage I see...
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Have you tried turbobricks?
It is an issue as ive gone over, remember, 240s are known for the mount points being too narrow and breaking mounts. Even big trucks don't run a big pipe with two small relatively inflexible joiners like you have, they use longer flexible ones at a minimum. If you're going to all the effort to over engineer the heat shielding which isn't that nessecary, you're mad to not cut the pipe and run a 1" long flexible hose and a bracket on the ic pipe side.
It is an issue as ive gone over, remember, 240s are known for the mount points being too narrow and breaking mounts. Even big trucks don't run a big pipe with two small relatively inflexible joiners like you have, they use longer flexible ones at a minimum. If you're going to all the effort to over engineer the heat shielding which isn't that nessecary, you're mad to not cut the pipe and run a 1" long flexible hose and a bracket on the ic pipe side.
Sam
First time I have read your mega project and its certainly been a super adventure for you. Wished I had followed it earlier as I may have been useful to sound a few things out.
I have a concern for you and its got to do with the turbo oil drain line position where it goes into the sump.
Background: When oil exits the turbo centre cartridge and into the drain pipe its really been whipped up and resembles a froth, the point being this whipped oil flow has no pressure, as the diameter of the drain hose is far bigger than the oil being feed into the turbo centre cartridge. This froth must be allowed to drip into the sump.
The positioning of your return oil line into the sump is below the engine oil level and this is the problem. The frothed oil cannot feely flow into the sump as it has no real pressure to bubble into the sump.
Consequence: As the waste froth cannot adequately flow, and the turbo bearings washed in fresh oil, the drain will build up and the hot tortured oil won't pass as it must. The result will be the turbo bearings and shaft will cook and the oil scale will clog up the channel, and sadly destroy the turbo.
To compare, note the turbo engine block oil return point is above the sump oil level.
First time I have read your mega project and its certainly been a super adventure for you. Wished I had followed it earlier as I may have been useful to sound a few things out.
I have a concern for you and its got to do with the turbo oil drain line position where it goes into the sump.
Background: When oil exits the turbo centre cartridge and into the drain pipe its really been whipped up and resembles a froth, the point being this whipped oil flow has no pressure, as the diameter of the drain hose is far bigger than the oil being feed into the turbo centre cartridge. This froth must be allowed to drip into the sump.
The positioning of your return oil line into the sump is below the engine oil level and this is the problem. The frothed oil cannot feely flow into the sump as it has no real pressure to bubble into the sump.
Consequence: As the waste froth cannot adequately flow, and the turbo bearings washed in fresh oil, the drain will build up and the hot tortured oil won't pass as it must. The result will be the turbo bearings and shaft will cook and the oil scale will clog up the channel, and sadly destroy the turbo.
To compare, note the turbo engine block oil return point is above the sump oil level.
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Yes do 1), this will solve the issue. I would utilise the sump hole to fit a temp probe.Samman88;63386 wrote Any suggestions for remedies?
1) drill factory oil return boss?
- As an aside in my first DIY, I fitted a return pipe into the sump, but put in extra effort to have the entry point as high as possible at the flange level of the sump and ran the oil level a little lower.
- My first reply is based on a true V story where a fellow had a low return into sump, and he wondered why his brand new turbos only lasted 3 months each.
I didn't tell him why, as by then he had given up and I bought a few used parts from him.
PS. I'm very impressed by your project. A.H.
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His car isn't running right either... Linuxmam on tbricks gives advice etc for MS. otherwise make a thread in the electrical ecu section of that forum?
As I can't recall how low you put the drain... Where have others done it without having failing turbos? As high up as possible on the sump ...
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- Maiden Voyage -
AWWWW YISSSS
AWWWW YISSSS
Boooooost.
I have the exact same issue as I discussed with you over the weekend, great you got It working I will have to check mine out I suspect it will solve my issues!Samman88;63415 wroteThanks for the tip - I have been keen on an engine stand/hot for some time now and the need to drill the block may be a good excuse to pick one up. Cheers!
@penta242gt does your DSM CAS give this signal during cranking? There are the correct 24 cranks per cam but the waveform is strange?
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5 days later
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Looking good mate. Take the spark plugs out and then the crank trigger waveform will look consistent ;)
What does the timing error look like in the logs, is it pretty solid with only a percent or two out? I've been using a microsquirt for our Shell Eco Marathon car, works well on a 35cc single cylinder engine. It's come along way from the hit and miss rubbish early days.
What does the timing error look like in the logs, is it pretty solid with only a percent or two out? I've been using a microsquirt for our Shell Eco Marathon car, works well on a 35cc single cylinder engine. It's come along way from the hit and miss rubbish early days.
I've only been saying that for years, but you're bias puts that against it i guess...
You seem pretty impressed with it after our phone conversation the other night ! It may have just been the high of getting it running the first time..... but seriously ms3x, microsquirt, mspro have been greatly refined over the years and are competing with top brand units and are less than half the price!Andy;64115 wroteLooking good mate. Take the spark plugs out and then the crank trigger waveform will look consistent ;)
What does the timing error look like in the logs, is it pretty solid with only a percent or two out? I've been using a microsquirt for our Shell Eco Marathon car, works well on a 35cc single cylinder engine. It's come along way from the hit and miss rubbish early days.
( and befor anyone ask's yes my set up is sorted now..... perfect crank and cam signal the car does fire and run...... but not for long tho..... timing and fuel tweaking needed)