• RWD

  • 'Minty' The 240 Wagon

I'm jumping on the skim the head bandwagon. Most machine shops will be able to turn it around same-day for you.
Fair point guys, appreciate the advice.

Let me walk you through my logic for not getting the head skimmed:



I bought a 1 metre engineers straight edge, and used my feeler gauges underneath diagonally as the service manual recommends as well as laterally and longitudinally and could find no significant warpage, much less than 0.1mm. I suppose this means that the head is fine to use, but doesnt rule out needing to get it skimmed. But it does mean it's pretty good, spec wise.

So then I read that because the Toyota OEM gasket is MLS and much less forgiving than a cometic, it requires a surface finish of less than 30 RA to seal well. This can't be produced by many machine shops, especially first pass.

So considering that every time you skim a head you bump compression, bring the pistons closer to the valves and put cam journals out of alignment, I was planning on using 400 grit wet&dry paper on a glass square with WD40 that by all accounts produces a surface finish closer to 15 RA, without removing alot of metal. That was my logic but if anyone can reason why to get a flat head skimmed to a lower than spec surface finish, I'm willing to do it on Monday.

Also, Ebay did this weird thing where I bought some ARP lube at 1am last night and then when I got home from work today;



The future is now! But I will check out Hallam Speed Parts in future @Vee_Que if I need asap parts, cheers for the tip!

Time to paint! Hopefully the weather is good tomorrow!



I was thinking of making it a rödblock but I'll have to live with the bad juju that comes with a non-red engine block in a 240. No doubt it'll throw a rod or something to spite my colour choice!

Also, the last part of the EWP (aka how to increase the cost of your build whilst reducing reliablility in one easy step) came, the pump radiator mount. Not looking forward to buying the -20AN fittings required though!
But...bling.



Meziere WP361, and cheers to Hypertune for the pretty machining.

Stay tuned :)
Plenty of machine shops machine for mls gaskets now, keep in mind plenty of other late model cars need the same thing. The amount taken off is in hundreds of mm, less than a fine hair. The cost of your straight edge would have paid for it to be done. I don't even own one as big as yours as I don't need it and I build engines pretty often!
20AN is massive.
Give me a yell when you're ready for some fittings if you like. Should be able to be quite price-competitive.
(I'm away from Thurs this week until Weds next week)
Thanks @AshDVS , I'll see what fittings I need when the engine is in the bay, what brands do you carry? Also do Nuke do 2JZ cam gears by any chance?

Not much to report, block became 'New Cast Iron' by VHT



Coil cover went from this:



To this:



Still alot more filling/sanding/painting/drilling, but it is progress.
And I'm in the process of working out my shimless bucket thicknesses;



I'm porting the oil pump at the moment before I install it, but I'm waiting on a new gear for the pump with a crank position sensor ring welded to it.

Stay tuned :)
Looking good!
Nuke dont do a gear for the 2J I'm afraid, at least not at the moment.
5 days later
Minor update...
Oil pump has been ported. It is kind of daunting taking apart and modifying a brand new $230 oil pump so I took things pretty slow. Some people enlarge the ports but I only really smoothed out the radius of bends and casting marks.
I'd also like to thank some dude called T.K. because most of what is done to the pumps is proprietary to performance houses - aka Titan Motorsports sells their 'ported' pump for $450usd. But T.K. did everyone a solid with this post:



So with the aid of this info, as well as some internal pics of already ported pumps, these:



Became these:



And these:



Became these:



Also enlarged the drain hole:




Now I know it seems like wearing a belt and suspenders, but I'm not keen on loosing a front main seal and in my research I noticed people made physical retainers as well. This is popular, but in my opinion pretty dodgey:



And this seems more legit to me:



So I copied that:



Incidentally I got fed up a while ago when I never seemed to have the right tap and picked up M2-M24 in a few sets, and it's coming in handy now!



Anyway, I haven't threaded them all the way in as I need to loctite them post main seal assembly, but you get the idea...



Also, springs and retainers are now installed in the head, with some difficulty due to stiff springs. But got the knack after 23 tries!

Stay tuned :)
11 days later
Last weeks progress on the engine started with some studs and an OEM 2JZ-GTE headgasket.



Important to use O.G. Toyota washers (left), not the ARP washers (right) as they will dig into the head at the requisite torque.



1200 grit so as to ensure the most repeatable torque on the studs. If you're ever bored, reading up on studs vs. bolts and how clamp load is affected is very interesting.



Head is on at 120Nm. Officially no retorque required. Some people say 5 heat cycles. Unsure if I will or not.



New cams in, on top of O.G. shimmed buckets. Clearances were measured. Plugs in loose to stop stuff falling in cylinders.



Visited the wreckers. Turns out 2NZ-FE Toyota engines use the same 31mm diameter buckets, but these are shimless buckets rather than the more conventional shim-over-bucket setup that the 2JZ runs. The advantage is a hugely lighter valve train and impossible to spit a shim with high lift cams. Disadvantages include having to remove cams for every clearance adjustment, and having to get a complete new shimless bucket, rather than just a shim.



You can see how it works, and how it is lighter in the below images. 37 refers to the 5.37mm thickness. Ranges from like 5.1mm to 5.5mm are available from $12-$20 each from Toyota. With 24 it would sure add up! I love Pickaparts. $2 each? No worries, I'll grab 50 of them! *takes 4 valve covers off, cuts 4 timing chains, removes 8 cams* Some regrets. Maybe $380 from Toyota would have been easier.



The height of the little inside nipple that sits on the top of the valve is varied for shimless, whereas for the shimmed one obviously the whole shim thickness is varied.



So I worked out what thicknesses I'd need to allow 0.17mm of intake clearance and 0.30mm of exhaust clearance:



Cams in properly this time!



Oil pump back together with some Vaseline inside - gives suction for faster oil pressure on first start. Note the $50 toothpaste tube of FIPG. Effin Toyota.



Front main seal in.



Offered up:



Billet bits because we're not here to fk spiders.



Modified crank gear so the CAS sensor ring doesn't spin a little independently by accident and do my ecu a frighten:



Get schwiftyyyyy



On a side note, apologies for the super-long-not-really-volvo-related engine posts, I know they are boring for some, but it is a good record for me to be able to look back on. So there'll be a few more before we're done.

I'm waiting on some stupid parts before the timing belt can go on - CAS Sensor, some little guide bolt on the oil pump, and timing belt guide. Also having no fun trying to work out where to return the heater core coolant line to, and what to do about a lower timing belt cover.

Want to build a work bench/fabrication station. Might start an inspiration thread for that.

Anyways, stay tuned homies :)
Samman88;111699 wroteOn a side note, apologies for the super-long-not-really-volvo-related engine posts, I know they are boring for some, but it is a good record for me to be able to look back on. So there'll be a few more before we're done.
Engine swaps aren't boring. All the details and new shiny bits are why we come here to read about other people's builds.


GingerNinja;111827 wrote Engine swaps aren't boring. All the details and new shiny bits are why we come here to read about other people's builds.
Cheers @GingerNinja , I'll try and keep it coming!

Minor update:

Recently I made the oil drain for the turbo into the sump. Holsets are normally quite hardy, but being a journal bearing turbo they do require alot of oil. And they do on occasion blow oil seals which will result in the need for a cheap but inconvenient rebuild. It is speculated that the reason they blow seals in non-oem situations is due to running too small of an oil drain. Holset operating manuals suggest that:

"Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan."

Now keeping in mind that the drain hole of the CHRA is 22mm on the HX52, it seems like a decent idea to run a complete drain with equivalent internal diameter. So -16 it is.



In addition to running a larger than average drain, I'll also regulate oil pressure to the turbo to 40psi using a turbosmart oil pressure regulator (bottom left of the below image). And I plan on logging pressure with a sensor in the reg. I picked up some decent tools to do the hardlines (fuel, some oil, possibly manifold pressure) so hopefully they work out well.



Lastly, I found the timing belt guide!!



I was wondering why it had holes in it as it does, and the only reason I could think of is to let air escape from between the crank gear and the belt. If that is why, then goddamn Toyota I'd love to see a write-up on the testing or failures that brought that about. Interesting stuff!

Interesting on the benders. Considering that I was sure I showed you mine that you could borrow a few weekends ago! What tap and drill did you end up buying?
Maybe it allows dirt that accumulates around the teeth to be pushed out.
@Vee_Que I have to admit I do remember that, but these came up 2nd hand from a bloke in the chemical industry without much use, so I thought I'd pick them up as I'm sure I'll need them later in life. They were hardly used, and they're Swagelok (aka ducks nuts $1000+ to buy the set of 3 new!) My inner tool snob couldn't resist. And...a big drill bit! 30mm.

@jamesinc I didn't think of that. That's likely too. I'm sure some Japanese bloke in Toyota knows for sure. It can't be for weight, although it is pretty close to the front main seal, so perhaps in the event of a leak it allows oil to escape? Makes more sense than air.
Slightly off topic but would you say a 2JZ is a cost effective solution in Australia? I often see the Americans saying "Put a 2J in it or put a V8 in it" with the reasoning that it is a relatively cheap route to good reliable power. I know V8s are affordable here in Australia but is the same true for the Japanese stuff? I always thought that an RB is cheaper than a 2JZ and is just as good.

Just curious thats all :)
Rbs are not just as good. They are closer to a b230, in that stock internals are strong to a point. 2jzs have the optimum bore and stroke, well designed head for flow, heavy and strong block, strong pistons and rods that are commonly used to make 500hp, and the tuning info is out there. Plus a gearbox can be organised cheaper and easier than mating a vg30dett box to an rb25.

Basically you can go bigger on a stock with valve springs 2j, where you need to upgrade the internals on the Rb motor at ~300 hp.

For cost.... You can turbo an na 2j, use e85 and make great power. But it's not a great daily obviously. So compared to an ls, you'd be ahead over a stock na. With a steel wheel turbo upgrade it would make 300whp pretty easily iirc.
I thought RBs made in excess of 300hp in factory trim and the 276hp number was just a gentlemans agreement.
Rb26, not rb25. They aren't as great as nissan fans will have you think. You just need to look at the specs for any big power one, vs the stories of stock bottom end 2js.
It's an interesting comparison, and not really straight forward to answer. Forgetting gearboxes and ecus and just focusing on engines, the attraction of a 2JZ is that although the initial cost may be greater, the amount of power you can safely make before having to do serious bottom end work is alot higher. So at 350hp, an RB25 would definately be better hp/$ spent, but double that power figure and a 2JZ will do it on stock internals, but anything RB will want $5k worth of internal work. So there is a sort of intersection in the two engines $/hp graphs at about 400hp, and the RB engines never come close after that. And if that was what I was hunting, I'd have kept the B230.
A better comparison is the 1JZ to the RB25, same capacity and price, but a 1JZ will reliably see 500hp on stock internals. The RB26 engines are much more expensive than either the 1 or 2jz engines off the bat. I'd use a 1JZ if I had to do it again tomorrow. 2JZ engines are not really cost effective at any power level when you put LS engines into the equation though. Hopefully that answers your question @Slowbrick ?
9 days later
Friendos!

Sorta timed:



Butchered lower timing belt cover:




JZ boots on 2NZ-FE coils:



Coils will sit on an angle to avoid some pesky breather hoses:



Need to turn my drawing into real ali soon: (ignore phillips head philth, will be Allen irl)



Pls fit?


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