Cleaning plastic intake manifold - xc70 D5 2012 160k kms

sai_man · 2024-05-11T10:39:43+00:00

Hi, Has anyone had experience cleaning the plastic manifolds, recommend a preferred, safe method. I've had several mechanics say they don't want to touch it...

sai_man

Amazing thanks very much!

Whats the part number for the swirl flaps, I haven't been able to find them at all. I assume our cars share the same engine? Are the located inside the manifold?

I've already had my throttle body off, that took a while to clean, the EGR is considerably worse. I don't have the space or tools available currently so I'll probably have to get a garage to do it but keep it as minimal as possible.

Yes! that carbon gunk is never ending

arebee

sai_man

For my car the swirl flap part numbers are 1029780 (genuine Volvo) and 1068780 (non genuine). On the Skandix web site swirl flaps are referred to as a 'tumble valve'. You will also need to get the manifold seal etc., and also get the small link bar between the swirl flap motor and the swirl flap actuator arm, this is referred to as a 'joint tumble valve' on their website, part number 1029359 (genuine Volvo) and 1071338 (non genuine). These small parts are easily broken due to embrittlement. I always keep a spare or two…

With the Skandix web site you also have the option of searching for parts based on your cars VIN, which I recommend as this should greatly reduce any risk of purchasing an incorrect part. In the unlikely event an incorrect part is sent, Skandix would correct this mistake, they are reputable.

Also mentioned by Ex850R, Berry Motor Group in Melbourne do an excellent job and are enthusiastic about getting it right.

Ex850R

Berry Motor Group have carbon cleaned set of tube and plastic cover on the shelf ready for exchange with yours.

They have a carbon clean mob do them and its at least an overnight clean in their machine.

They also have the swirl faps and you get the O rings and actuator wrm for the S/F motor in that kit.

Injectore were bad on her D5 @ 160,000K too , so injectors with the same numbers on them can be used without coding.

While in there check the rockers and lifters , we had 3 cylinders of bad lifters and i had bought a kit from UK off a business there that sells on EBoi. About $500 deliuvered cheapest around. (Mark at BMG advises to buy that kit)

Ex850R

arebee

USA didnt get these diesels so nobody there sell the parts

Ex850R

It was RS ENGINEPARTS UK for the lifter and tappet set.

I bought direct rather than eboi.

Ex850R

Mark supplied the S/F kit from Volvo parts dealer he gets good rates from and you get full Volvo Australia warranty 2. Years.

Kit has all seals S/F actuator arm , O rings.

Get new injector seals as they have to be replaced.

Get injectors tested while out. We had leaks and three injectors fail. Used ones put in as BMG had same serial number ones on shelf or in an engine they wrecked.

Everything that could have been bad was on our motor so be prepared.

If you are handy you can change the lifters and rocker arms without taking cams out ….. our retired Greek mechanic is an old skool diesel rebuilder for motors from car to mining equipment all over the world. He even found the cam timing out by 1/2 teeth!

sai_man

First off, I'd like to thank you guys for your replies' and being so quick. Its so helpful to get timely feedback like that!

I've rung around, no spare manifolds, I've found one at an adelaide wreckers but is dirty. I'm still deciding which direction to go.

Do you think I should leave the manifold for now and just clean the EGR? Mine looks a similar state to @arebee.

I know all of this is hard to say without being hands on, just not in a place where I want to fork over handfuls of cash just yet..

I don't have the space or required tools handy to give it a go myself. I did just pull the AWD haldex pump off for a clean and service. Fingers crossed it works tomorrow going back in. Was quite filthy.

Ex850R

sai_man

Berry have them cleaned already on the shelf. It’s exchange units for yours.

They look brand new after they get a specialist place to do the cleaning

arebee

I cleaned the EGR / throttle body and the 90 degree angled rubber tube that goes between the throttle body and the manifold first. Then about two weeks later got stuck into the swirl flaps / intake manifold. It would be my assumption that if you have a fair bit of gunk in the EGR system, it would be highly likely that the rest of the system would also be fouled up, plan on doing them either at the same time, or shortly one after the other. I found the removal / replacement of the EGR a bit fiddly, but it is doable if you have a reasonable level of skill and some decent tools. If you are at all unsure, check the various YouTube videos available, and then judge for yourself if you have the appropriate level of skill required, and either tackle it yourself, or save up and pay someone to do it for you.

Good luck with it.

sai_man

I called yesterday , they said they didn’t have any unfortunately

jamesinc

I don't know if this would work or not, but have you considered getting the manifold vapour blasted? Otherwise why not try the ultrasonic bath route?

Ex850R

jamesinc

One thing though, it’s a plastic cover.

You also get pipes in the change over of your filthy parts.

Mark has the service kits which have all gaskets, o rings, new actuator arm for the inlet flappers.

I just bought my own tappers and rockers.

New o rings for injectors and the fuel line needed as well.

We found failed injectors too. Mark had same serial number ones so just swap em over.

the mob that do the carbon clean only do this for Mark and under sufference as it mucks up their equipment……It’s bathed overnight in the equipment.

arebee

Whilst it is nice to be able to get a perfectly clean exchange one off the shelf ( I would have certainly done this if timing and money weren't an issue), I would have definitely have done so, it is a slimy, dirty job to do it yourself, but as I have stated earlier, it can be done. Also whilst is is also nice to have something perfectly clean in all respects, it is also not essential to obtaining a perfectly functional outcome. I guarantee that after a month or two of driving, there will be a film of gunk built on the inside of the manifold and all related intake / EGR parts. I am reasonably certain that these components are designed to tolerate a bit of crap on them and still work well, just not as much crap as was on the one I had to fix!