If you want the rear axle to live, it's good practice to have the axles crack tested, then if okay, get them shot peened - by a place that does aircraft-grade work, not some noddy at a speed shop - and all you have to worry about then is lunching the LSD's spider gears. Maybe they could benefit from shot peening, too, especially if you're going to drive it hard.

    dmc

    dmc are there any upgrades that can be done to the brakes on these? I’m going to replace the disks etc at some point before I install it

        Major Ledfoot thanks for that, it will just be a weekender to take out to car shows and the odd cruise around, not driven hard, the Ute only has a small V8 in it

          The upgrade is pretty much rebuilt calipers, good pads, new rotors, that’s pretty much the best it can be

          Tiler
          They’re stronger than a Banjo, weaker than a Salisbury.

          There’s two versions of the Volvo diff.
          The earlier type is called a 1030, and is a close copy of the Dana 30.
          The later type is a 1031 and uses the same 27-spline axles and centre, but has a larger pinion and slightly larger crownwheel.

          Changeover is the early 1980s. If it has an electronic speedo sender, then it is 1031 - but there are a few years of 1031s without the speedo sender.
          You might find information about the number of ribs being an identifier (1030 vs 1031), but it is NOT accurate.

          If you are going to give the diff a hard time, the first thing that will break is the cross pin.
          If you weld the diff or fit an LSD, then the next thing to break is the axles. I have not tried Ledfoot’s shot peening solution.

            Should also add that 1030 ratios are freely available as Dana/Jeep parts, including new aftermarket parts.

            Alternate 1031 ratios only seem to be available from Sweden at considerable cost.
            Most people who use these diffs in 6-cylinder or V8 cars quickly find that they want a taller ratio (smaller number). The best option is the 3.31:1 from an 86+ manual 240, but they are relatively rare.

            7 days later

            ramrod thanks for that, what price do you have on the disks and pads also is it possible to buy new calipers?

            Also where are you located?

              rotors and pads are still available at the local parts shop. most likely they will be ordered in. i prefer genuine rotors though many have said aftermarket are readily available. pads come in a vast variety of materials. avoid the genuine pads, they are super dusty.

              Calipers are no longer available new hence mentioning rebuilding them. Try a brake shop for this or a licenced mechanic or workshop. Berry Motor Group or Voldat in Melbs will be able to help. The do lots of 240s.

              Interstate workshops do exist, just mention your location here and someone local to you can point you to a recommended workshop.

                I get 240 pads and RDA rotors online delivered from Richmond Brake & Clutch, their prices are really good

                9 days later

                I think there is a shop there called GLT Automotive or something similar. GLT something, a local will know.

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