'92 940 Cranks but no start

odddit · 2023-08-11T04:44:22+00:00

Been having some trouble with the ol' blue meanie, Was driving to work and the engine just clicked off. After a minute or so it managed to start again, got i...

Major Ledfoot

odddit
The timed flashes are on the diagnostic box itself.
The fuel ECU and the ignition EZ-K can be tested from the diagnostic box.
Both should flash code 1-1-1 - if not, there's a problem. See the link supplied earlier for process and codes.
What results have you gotten?

odddit

Tried a new radio suppression relay and some start ya bastard and it fired up fairly nicely, drove it around until it got up to temp to recharge the battery a bit and it conked out, at least on my home street this time.
How's this though, as I'm pushing it to a parking spot, someone in a skoda overtakes me, and steals the parking spot I was aiming for! What a move.
When it was up to temp, and conked out, on trying to re-start it the fuel pump was making a strange noise, or not making a noise at all, so I'm suspecting the fuel pump relay again. Will pull it and see if any repair is possible.
Anyone know what to look for with the fuel pump relay?

ramrod

Cracked solder joints

The relay can be bypassed to get it going with pumps permanently running

odddit

ramrod Are they super hard to repair? I've done some soldering before but no great amount.

ramrod

The only way to know is to look at it under a magnifying glass though it should be obvious if there is a dry joint

Brad

The fuel pump relay on one of my 940s let me down a while ago. Below is a photo through the microscope at 20x magnification of one of the solder joints. A few others were in similar condition. I've had a go a repairing it but it still doesn't work. My soldering skills are crap though so that's probably why. I'll need to have another crack at it.

Philia_Bear

Reflow using silver bearing solder (60/38/2) for best success and long term reliability

Anthony

My 940 issue was traced to the distributor cap - the pin on the underside of the cap where the ign lead from coil clicks on had cracked due to vibration fatigue I presume.

When i first read your symptoms I thought crank position sensor, and swapping in an old one is the only real way to verify (under heat stress). This is a task one does when the distributor cap is out anyway.

odddit

Finally got back to working on this dang 940 and still no luck. Got a known working fuel pump relay from Volvonly, and now it won't start even with a nip of start ya bastard. not even barking off, so the plan now is finally swap on the new dizzy & button I got ages ago, and try to find a good crank position sensor, so that I don't do anything silly like go buy a convertible, even though the weather is so very nice.

sometimes i think maybe a witch has cursed my 940

odddit

it was the crank angle sensor got one from repco for like $30 and hank's running better than ever now lol

ramrod

Which repco was that?

Did they give you a part number?

nugget_940

ramrod CAS-107 is the part number from P.A.T
I run one in my car with no issues

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