bigal
I had a couple of hours of free time so started troubleshooting..
Rear brakes:
Found a flat surface with a gentle slope (it looks level to the eye), put it in neutral and hand brake off.. It rolled back quite easily by itself building up speed. I then put the hydraulic jack under with some small padding between it and the diff (probably a no no but had to be done), chocked the front wheels either side and got the rear wheels off the ground.. I can spin each wheel by hand and can see the drive shaft spinning with it. They don't spin very freely when I let go and i'm hoping that's because the diff and drive shaft are giving them it some resistance. Thoughts?
Uni Joints:
With the car back on the ground I checked for movement and noise at each of the Uni Joints in the drive shaft. The rear one seems solid, however the middle and front have some tiny free play and can hear some clicking when giving it a good jiggle. The front one being worse. They look like they've been in there for a long time so will replace them all.
General Observation:
When the rear was raised I gave the rear wheels a slight push up and down and side to side and could see there is some general slackness and movement between the body and the rear axle assembly.. I noticed some movement around bushes and I suspect the shocks aren't dampening much at all either. The new rear shocks should be here next week and will be buying new bushes all round soon so with these installed this should tighten things up a lot in this area.
Engine Pinging:
Will look into this over the course of the next week with a knowlegable friend. We have some loose injectors so a new seal kit there is needed.
Lots of parts to buy now!
Think I might get into polishing while I wait for parts.
Cheers.
Tassie6er
Al, on one of my 245's I had a seized universal in the tailshaft which lead to a lot of vibration and loss of power. It may not be the solution, but a set of new uni's on the shaft won't do any harm and shouldn't cost much.
bigal
Installed some new trim clips on the back left side yesterday, gave the trim strip a good clean and polish and clipped it back on. Much better.
Took it out for another drive and the engine power has increased. The full tank of premium fuel I put in last week must be working its way through as it's performing much better. It still has a horrible vibration to sort out so will probably park it until I get on top of that so I don't make things worse. I'm hoping new universal joints sort that out.
And I had a coffee with
@1971_144GL yesterday and checked out his 74' 142. Very nice.
Tassie6er
It seems to be a requirement that all 1 series in Tasmania must be on Vic rego!
bigal
vic temp rego is a good thing :-)
@Tassie6er that universal joint you put in the 245.. Did you get it from a local supplier easy enough? I'm keen to tackle the task this weekend. I'm wondering if Repco or a place like that would have something.
Tassie6er
It has been quite a while since I did them, but I'd find it hard to believe that you couldn't get them from Repco.
1971_144GL
Hardy spicer make excellent uni joints if you can find them locally. I have a two large and one small uro brand here that you can borrow and replace if you can't find them easily.
bigal
The more I look into these uni joints the more confused I'm getting. There appears to be 2 different types of drive shafts which affect the type of uni joints I need. I'm unsure what I have.
Possible drive shafts:
Type 1140: 44.5 mm diameter
Type 1310: 50.8 mm diameter
The 2 Volvo uni joint part numbers involved are:
231311-2 (83mm diameter)
672037-9 (61mm diameter)
Anyone want to have a stab and tell me what drive shaft combo I have? I should just get under the car and measure up but realistically I can't get under the car until the weekend (I need daylight and ramps etc). I'm too impatient. :-)
Scandix appears to suggest I need 3 x 231311 (uni joint part number) where as the volvotips part catalog is causing some doubt.
References:
volvotips.com/index.php/140-164/140-parts-manual/140-new-type-1973-1974-parts-catalog/
skandix.de/en/spare-parts/drive-train/wheel-drive/propeller-shaft-parts/joint-propeller-shaft-universal-joint/1000113/
skandix.de/en/spare-parts/drive-train/wheel-drive/propeller-shaft-parts/joint-propeller-shaft-universal-joint/1000112/
egads (she/her)
Get under the car and measure, it is a crap shoot to work out otherwise especially with later aus assembled stuff.
1971_144GL
Agreed. The different sizes seem to be randomly fitted. And there can be more than one size on a tailshaft. That said almost all the later 140 cars seem to have the larger tailshaft diameter and larger joints, and are the same part as the 240 making them reasonable easy to get. Your 74 should in theory have the larger diameter tailshaft if it is the original. Also get a centre bearing and rubber support while you are at it.
egads (she/her)
74, Aus, on injection might make it the same spec as Chloe if @bgpzfm142 knows the spec on his and you are willing to take the parts punt
bigal
Thanks. I think I better get under it and measure.
Major Ledfoot
egads;80553 wrote74, Aus, on injection might make it the same spec as Chloe if
@Major Ledfoot knows the spec on his and you are willing to take the parts punt
I haven't gotten under the car yet, but it's pretty safe to presume that the B20E cars use the bigger units, the 1310.
1971_144GL
Chances are only one of the joints is giving you the main grief, though all three should be changed preferably. I suggest pull the shaft this weekend. If you can't get a replacement joint locally, take my spare to get you back on the road, and replace it when you do your parts order. My 74 142 has the large tail shaft, and both 74 145's I have had have had the same (I still have one of them if there are any major problems such as a dent/bend). The odds are in favour of you getting away with it. You will also need a set of new UNF nylocks (assuming the original tail shaft bolts) Apart from being safe practice, the originals are soft and difficult to get off intact. During removal damage the nut heads if you must, but the special size small head grade 12 bolts are difficult to replace, and great caution should be used to not damage them. I recommend nickle anti seize on reassembly. A good copper mallet is crucial to re-fitting the joint intact. Also good cir clip pliers. I have everything needed if you get into trouble half way into the job. Also if you don't know, they are balanced while assembled. Do not separate the two halves without marking the spline, or the weights will end up in the wrong orientation. Experts say that a shaft should always be re balanced after new joints. I have fitted and reassembled them a couple of times without re balancing, and not noticed a problem, so your call here. My theory is that a correctly fitted UNI should have symmetrical weight distribution anyway, and this seems to have held true.
If you also do the bearing, I have the required tools.
I am fussy, but I also take the opportunity to clean off the crud and repaint the shaft with a corrosion resisting paint (POR15) as given how small the balancing weights are, I think that the crud on the surface or corrosion has potential to upset balance.
So I say, have a go. If you run into the trouble, give me the pieces and I will make it work again (providing no angle grinders have been used to removed suck bolts or other innovative repair solutions I have seen ... but I'm pretty certain that is not your style).
Lunch is ended, so back to work ... but I am about to start on the first Australian built internal combustion four stroke engine. Built in Launceston would you believe!
bigal
Good tips. Thanks. I'll whip out the drive shaft this weekend to diagnose properly at least.
Reached under and grabbed some pics last night of the drive shaft joints including the centre bearing area. Note that I have a split on a centre boot.. can't be good! Probably split with all the thrashing/vibrating which makes me think perhaps the issue is in the middle with either the centre bearing or the middle uni joint. The wet/oily areas around the joints are from my quick attempt to free things up with some inox spray. I'm more concerned about the spider on the bearing bracket! I thought I nuked all those guys!
Front:
Middle:
Rear:
Here's a good vid for a laugh. It's a bit of a bush mechanics method of changing the centre bearing on a 240. I see this as a how not to do the task!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5_4u5M3Ct8
bigal
New rear shocks. These were a bargin at $111 total delivered. They were supposed to be KYB but there was an issue so I took up the offer of the Sachs replacement. I runs Sachs in my audi and very happy with them.
perko
Centre bearings often go at the same time as the uni's, usually one dying will finish off the other.
That video is a pretty accurate depiction of the struggle of most people to remove one, from memory I ended up splitting the one on my 240 with a cold chisel when it wouldn't come off any other way
bigal
Busy with other jobs this weekend so didn't get the driveshaft out. I at least have it on the hydraulic ramps ready for the task. Hopefully some progress this week.
1971_144GL
You inspired me to put my head under the 142 for the first time in over 12 months, and I now know what old volvo's are for - spider habitat! Need to get this machine registered in Tasmania or sold rather than sitting around gathering surface rust and wildlife.
Loved the bearing removal video, the first part with the timber was very funny. I have a puller and bearing clamp when it comes time to remove yours.
bigal
Look at the colour under the 142! That's tidy.
I like how your engine sits straight.. that reminds me to add proper 140 engine mounts to my parts list.
I was thinking of buying a gear puller for the bearing removal (supercheap $60) but hadn't made up my mind on how to press it into place.. I think you'll be seeing me next week about that bearing clamp and one of those nice coffees :-)
