Nina's 1981 244 GL - "Billie"

jamesinc

I would like to just put entirely new sills on, but the shipping out of the US/Europe for something that size is c r a z y

jamesinc

Also, the freeze plugs on the inlet side are all leaking badly, bit annoyed about that as the machine shop installed them for me. So I have new plugs on order and I am fairly sure that once I take the inlet manifold etc off I'll have enough access to pound them home with my mini-Mjolnir.

BTW, so there's no confusion, Nina (this is Nina's car) and I split up amicably last year. I like this car and don't want any mechanics compromising my work so I take care of it on an at-cost sort of basis for Nina, and in return Nina takes care of all the tasks I don't want to do, like schlepping it around Sydney collecting parts and consumables for the work.

Ex850R

Is that will too complex to be made? Surely some old Volvo nutters has bodywork or sheet metal skills?

jamesinc

Ex850R
Is that will too complex to be made? Surely some old Volvo nutters has bodywork or sheet metal skills?

Yeah, me lol, it's just a lot of work

Ex850R

jamesinc
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/190195#Comment_190195
Yeah, me lol, it's just a lot of work

+++++++++++++++++++++++(the P80 cabin filter holder on the keyboard talking there .....reminder to post! )

Well , you can get all sorts of small and large sheetmetal working stuff on marketplace and ive been annoyed I have no room and hoard enough stuffs , if its straight I could;d make at work though.

jamesinc

Ex850R
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/190198#Comment_190198
+++++++++++++++++++++++(the P80 cabin filter holder on the keyboard talking there .....reminder to post! )
Well , you can get all sorts of small and large sheetmetal working stuff on marketplace and ive been annoyed I have no room and hoard enough stuffs , if its straight I could;d make at work though.

It's a rock and a hard place. I don't really want to have to make a full sill, and I wouldn't be able to do it as well as a new stamped sill, and it would take me at least a whole day to make each sill. The alternative is to buy new stamped sills but once shipping is added they become prohibitively expensive. I've considered importing a bunch of them because I figure half the 240s on this forum must have some degree of sill rust and then selling them to make it cost-effective.

But instead I chose the easiest option, cut out the rust only and weld in patches, grind off all the surface rust and prime and paint it satin black enamel.

jamesinc

And started on the other side

I straightened out the dent you see in the first picture. A lot of dead leaves and dirt came out of these sills too.

I'm currently researching sill wax.

jamesinc

What do you reckon about that last photo? As you can see there's a lot of surface rust on the inner sill. It's not great but the metal isn't totally compromised, so I think if I approach this right I can probably stop it from getting any worse. I know it looks bad but some of that stuff at the bottom isn't rot, it's just wet dirt from when I was flushing the sills out.

To that end I was thinking of getting a sandblasting kit and trying to get the surfaces clear of any rust so I can repaint the internal spaces.

Philia_Bear

jamesinc
What do you reckon about that last photo? As you can see there's a lot of surface rust on the inner sill. It's not great but the metal isn't totally compromised, so I think if I approach this right I can probably stop it from getting any worse. I know it looks bad but some of that stuff at the bottom isn't rot, it's just wet dirt from when I was flushing the sills out.
To that end I was thinking of getting a sandblasting kit and trying to get the surfaces clear of any rust so I can repaint the internal spaces.

I would go for a dry ice kit

Totaly agree that the inside needs cleaning

past_the_moon

jamesinc
What do you reckon about that last photo? As you can see there's a lot of surface rust on the inner sill. It's not great but the metal isn't totally compromised, so I think if I approach this right I can probably stop it from getting any worse. I know it looks bad but some of that stuff at the bottom isn't rot, it's just wet dirt from when I was flushing the sills out.
To that end I was thinking of getting a sandblasting kit and trying to get the surfaces clear of any rust so I can repaint the internal spaces.

hi James

if ya got the time and like truly clean steel like me then get some Deox Gel from PPCCO - have u used it before? (im new here, sorry) you spread it on like 3-5mm thick if possible then cover it in glad w rap . take the gw off every 12hrs or so and stir / scratch the goo up and recover. do that couuple of times then wash it off. that stuff REMOVES the rust entirely and is safe to use - no stinging on skin and it doesnt affect rubber or glass either. great for vertical surfaces even upside down. fantastic on delicatre parts too. works best when warmed up a bit - sunlight, heat lamps.

the other thing i use is W U R TH paint on rust convertor that you can paint over within 4-5 hrs or so. I spray that stuff into all sorts of cavities and then spray paint inside then do some waxing.

anyway goodonya for keepin the old rocket rolling. best thing for the environment is buy a car and keep it on the road for life.

carnut222

The advantage you have is with the outer sections removed, you can access the inner and get it cleaned up well and maybe paint with some type of anti-rust epoxy paint or zinc-rich primer/paint? It would probably last 50 years then! :)

Ex850R

Wurth make weldable galvanised paint in spray can.

Slowbrick

This is what you want James. Ive been using this on the HQ and also did the sills and have no doubt my repair will last following using the KBS system

Chassis Coater Kit - KBS Coatings (kbs-coatings.com.au)

Roinik

Industrially we'd blast and do a couple of coats of high build epoxy after passivating with phosphoric acid. Build to around 400-420 microns.

Philia_Bear

Strip the shell and have it acid dipped and cleaned and then gal dipped just like the later ones were....

Major Ledfoot

Maybe a separate topic in itself...

Philia_Bear
Strip the shell and have it acid dipped and cleaned and then gal dipped just like the later ones were....

Whoa boy, big job. The options for chemical cleaning on this side of OZ are Redistrip in Blacktown who can do the chemical cleaning, or Recoat in Bonegilla, about 20 mins out of Albury. Dunno who can do gal dipping though.

Was looking at these options for the 1800.

jamesinc

I think I will end up using POR15 because I already have a can of it and I have to use it soon or it will expire. I use weld-thru primer but generally only around the welds.

I also bought a couple cans of sill wax that I will run through the cavities once everything is back together.

jamesinc

Okay, those structural pieces I ordered just turned up

I didn't really want to handmake these pieces as they have that dimle pressed into them for rigidity which I can't really reproduce, and also quite importantly these provide a reference surface for the new sill metal I have to weld in.

jamesinc

Free ad for Pedro's + all the stone pockmarks on the front of the arches were really pissing me off, I'm going to be painting the sills anyway as I have to drill out some old spot welds so fuck it time for a bit of scope creep.

Speaking of scope-creep, these door trims were all flaking. I painted them years ago with an acrylic satin black and that just doesn't bond well to the polished brightwork underneath, so I stipped all the paint off and scuffed them up to get better adhesion. This time I've used a satin black enamel paint, as I've had good results with enamels in the past. Only downside is you have to give them a day or two to cure.

I'm going to get really into the rust repairs this weekend so stay tuned.

Philia_Bear

Why not have the trims powder-coated?

jamesinc

It's comparatively expensive, and tbh I don't think it's necessary, the paint should last a very long time now that I've keyed the surface.

Philia_Bear

jamesinc
It's comparatively expensive, and tbh I don't think it's necessary, the paint should last a very long time now that I've keyed the surface.

that does not seam like nearly enough scope creep....

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