I bought this 142 a couple of weeks ago. I bought it sight unseen over the phone because I was expecting it to go fast, also it was absolutely an impulsive buy lol. Was unsure if I was going to keep it because from the outside it is quite rough.
142 - The bog roll
Only got around to giving the car a good once over tonight but surprisingly its in quite good nick so I think I'll keep it. I don't want two project cars though, so if I keep this I will have to get rid of the 244 :(
*Rust in driver side C pillar - this is probably the post PITA of where I have found rust. Never done rust repair but willing to give it a go. However where it is on the C pillar is some complex shapes. Might have to call on some help from a friend with more experience than me.
*Some amount of rust on lower driver door. Hard to tell if its through the panel.
*Under battery it has completely rusted through.
*Looks like someone punctured through the floor in the back seat foot area. No idea what they were doing but there's a crowbar type of puncture there.
*I believe I have found some bog on the front fender where someone has dinged it after the repair and exposed it. Makes me believe there is probably bog elsewhere...
Otherwise, there's some things that will need to be fixed for roadworthy. Have to do some suspension bushes but might was well replace them all. Hand brake and horn doesn't work.
It was running when I got it but I believe the retro-fitted fuel pump failed. I think it's because it was installed right above the alternator and contacted the positive terminal maybe frying it... Any reason to not go replace the original pump and go back to mechanical?
A B20B car of 1972 vintage? Nice find.
Pics of the C-pillar rust? And other rust? And what's going on behind the LHF bonnet hinge?
The battery tray rust spot is very common.
The screen washer bottle and pump don't look factory. The PO also looks like he's chosen an .... interesting.... route for the clutch cable.... In your place, I'd consider re-routing those fuel lines. That side of the engine gives off one hell of a lot of heat.
Lower control arm bushes, sway bar link bushes, tie rod ends, and ball joints are common wear points on these cars.
Hand brake may be an adjustment issue, otherwise it's shoes. The disc/drum arrangement is similar to 240s, the handbrake cable isn't. As for the horn... heh, electrics are so wonderfully simple in these things, it's an easy fix.
If you're replacing the retrofitted electric pump with a mechanical one, make sure you get 2 gaskets and a new spacer.
Looks like a good project and nice to see an early 142 being saved.
- Edited
I forgot the year... It's a '71 but with '74 doors.
Those in addition to under the battery is by far the worst rust on the car. Any other spot is surface I believe. In saying that I think it's been resprayed. Maybe there's more rust under that crap paint job!
Wow didn't even think about the fuel lines there. Will certainly be fixing that too.
25 days later
- Edited
While I've been waiting for parts I plopped a b230 in the car. @Major Ledfoot were you still doing your 142/b230 conversion? What's your solution for the alternator? It's looking very tight to fit one in there, I'm thinking I'll have to find a physically small one, maybe the 940 Denso will fit?
Edit: the exhaust side or stock 240 location is where I'm talking about. If it's on the other side it will interfere with Yoshifabs dsm cas I'm predicting.
- Edited
@jlfents I haven't finalised the alternator location yet, but it will probably be either at the mid point on the intake side, or very high on the exhaust side using a mounting plate made from a template from @carnut222 for mounting his supercharger. I won't have to worry about the DSM CAS as I won't have anything in the distributor area.Test fitting a 940 alt might be the go.
edit: typos and missing words
Interesting. I'll have to mull over it. Thanks for your reply!
While I've been waiting for parts I plopped a b230 in the car.
Pics!
Are you planning to use the Yoshifab 140 mounts?
Planning on making my own I think.
2 months later
I don't think I'll be able to do the b230 thing for now. Got some life changes coming up and all that jazz... In saying that I did start working towards it.
Nearly finished a log manifold.
Have ideas for an intake but it's just going to have to wait.
Have since been working on the car to get it back on the road. All bushes are now superpro, all new ball joints and tie rods/ends, cleaned and regreased wheel bearings, new wheel studs all round, new mechanical fuel pump, all crankcase seals and gaskets replaced, new clutch and resurfaced flywheel, and a shit load of cleaning – like I’ve used 15 cans of degreaser and counting lol. Some piccies.
Tonight I went to bleed the brakes but broke a bleed nipple in the caliper fluggin hell. In any case the callipers are in need of replacing or rebuilding anyway. Not sure what I want to do here. Actually I think I might try extracting the broken bleed nipple before I go spending money.
Still on the list of to do is fix the throttle linkage. Someone previously hacked together the linkages with a mig gun – it’s really bad and I broke on of the welds so gotta take care of that. Other than that I need to pray it will run again when I eventually turn the key. Slowly getting there…
I think that’s all to update on.
2 months later
Car runs. Still need to fix the brakes. And then rwc and rego afaik… Hopefully soon I can finally take this thing out.
Major Ledfoot The PO also looks like he's chosen an .... interesting.... route for the clutch cable....
What is the original routing of the clutch cable? I see there are 'hooks' on the right side body below the firewall, on the steering box and on the left side engine mount. Where is the cable meant to transverse to the other side? I've tried going under the water pump between the fan and fan belt but it either wants to sit on the fan blade or on the belt…
jlfents What is the original routing of the clutch cable?
Under the steering shaft and down the RH body member where it's held by a couple of screw clips, under the engine below the crank pulley, anchorage clamp on the LH engine mount, then off to the clutch fork.
I'll get pics next week when I finish pulling Larry's engine out.
You see where the PO's put the clutch cable through the clamp on the thermostat housing? Uh, that's meant to be a clip for the fuel line….
I reckon the PO did a 'creative' run of the clutch cable since he's likely had to change it more than once, and replacing the clutch cable when it's in factory location is a real Kyle's Mom In D Minor.[*] That goes double if the timing case has a Miracle Felt [**] oil seal.
[*] Yes; an obvious South Park reference.
[**] So called, because it's a freakin' miracle if the thing seals in any oil.
lol thanks for that, I've put it in the route you have explained but yes, still would appreciate some piccies please. Especially of the steering shaft and right hand side area.
5 days later
jlfents You asked; I deliver:
presenting …. The Great Funky Route Of A RHD 140's Clutch Cable
Out of the firewall …..
Under the steering shaft, and held by two little clamps
Under the engine on the RH side
Loops around with a clamp under the pulley / timing case
... and finally, a stay attached to the engine mount, then off under the starter motor to the clutch fork.
Is it any wonder why I wanted to convert my 144's clutch to hydraulic back in 1988? 
Given Sweden was RHD when the 140 entered production, you'd think it wouldn't look like such an afterthought!