Volvo 244 motor build NA power

ramrod

Don't expect much improvement over standard level unless you're ready to spend huge cash.

The limit of the above unless spending lots is about 160hp and that will mostly be at the upper end of the powerband.

That's where most people stop when building NA redblocks

If you get bored of that, you're going to have to get into the headwork which when paying a professional will add up to four figure sums pretty quick, I would use the B230 block as well due to having bigger bores than what you currently have. For more low end

Regarding shaving the head for higher compression, I've shaved off 30 thou myself, but I have seen people take off 60 thou and even beyond that. When taking off that much, the cam belt tension becomes too loose and there is a shorter cam belt you can use to compensate.

Keep in mind the camshaft you select will alter the dynamic compression ratio.

If I were you I would rebuild the B230 block then get it going for a baseline, taking it to get dyno tuned would help to have a starting point for future mods

Just for reference if anyone is playing along at home the shorter square tooth belt is a ford cortina belt gates part number T013 readily available in aus it's 1 tooth shorter then a standard b230 belt

Ask the machine shop that will shave the head about who they use for porting.

The Volvo cylinder head itself is not different to other engines in it's own function and construction, but the engines themselves tend to be uniquely European, where if you had a European specialist mechanic they would be more familiar with working on it.

Are you doing the labour of the engine building yourself? Doing so would save thousands plus you get to learn for free

Are you using the stock ecu for timing?

I think he's going with carbs

ramrod

I think he's going with carbs

Sorry, I meant the spark timing not the fuel. My B230FX with 10.5:1 on pump 98 can get a bit close to the knock limit as I get right up in the rpm range. I think the stock LH2.2 vacuum advance is a bit aggressive. Something I could program would be nice but too expensive for my daily. I can take a bit of timing out at the distributor but it drops a lot of nice low to mid torque when I do.

For question 1 as an alternative option, there is multiplayer steel gaskets that can bum the compression up a little by reducing the hight to the head, plus you get the benefits of the fire ring seal.

Cheers,

Tim

B230 bottom end is significantly better than a B230 for NA power. This is due to the smaller (lighter, lower friction) bearing journals, and the longer conrods.

Where a turbo motor can benefit from the B23’s extra beefiness, it is all negative for a NA build.

Here’s what I would do:

B230F block. Conventional/turbo wisdom is that you want the later one with the slightly beefier rods and much better thrust bearing design. I suspect that this is irrelevant for a NA build.

Either way, I would fit aftermarket longer rods and shorter pistons. This will also allow you to get in the ballpark for compression ratio without having to machine the head too much.

The 531 head is the best head, but it is massively over-rated compared to the much more readily available, and much cheaper 405 head.

Whatever head you choose, pay attention to getting the squish band right, and you will be able to increase compression ratio without more hassles with detonation.

The readily available extractors and pretty much garbage - any performance gain you might get is from weight loss alone. Either buy/make some proper design extractors, or use the factory manifold. There are some ok ones available secondhand, but they are few and far between.

A better ignition will help. Ideally a fully programmable one, but I THINK a 123 Ignitions dizzy would be an improvement over the factory Volvo setup.