• Wanted

  • [Done] 1982-ish era 240 front-only-electric-window switch bezels

I'm sick of the power-window switches popping out of the bezels ... it doesn't seem to take much pressure & the switch pushes down into the bowels of the armrest/doorhandle. I can still use the window switch, but it's annoying & I've decided after 1.5 decades I want to fix it ...

Unsure if maybe the ones I have are old & loose or if it's the aftermarket switches; but others don't complain about the switches so suspect the bezels (both sides came from the same pick-a-part car in the US).

So I'm wondering if anyone has a pair of the bezels/trims that the switch mounts into, from either an OS model 242 or from the local 1981-1983 (or thereabouts) GLE's that only had power front windows?

That is, the passenger-side one will have only one switch hole, and the other will have room either for two switches or three.

The one I have for the driver's side looks like this:

... however I think the AU-spec early plasti-bumper GLE ones may not have the lock switch (and it doesn't bother me not to have that).

Yeah can't say I have ever had issues with switches popping out. Not something a cheeky bit of super glue can't fix?

Can confirm that the front only power window spec GLE in Australia didn't have a lock switch. Well at least that is how my car was.

I don't think I have a spare 2 switch bezel but can look next weekend. Good chance of having a spare 1 switch bezel.

Ta @VolvoHordz ... no urgency, I have to extend the piece of loom first anyhoo (used a 264 loom to add some of these extra bibs & bobs which weren't wired in the 242, and I suspect I mis-routed it or something as it's just a wee bit too short at the armrest, only just makes it ... I don't think it's a 2dr vs 4dr difference as the armrest mounts the same distance from the front of the 2dr-door as the 4dr-door).

There are plenty for sale on eBay but being private sellers over there they have to contend with "retail pricing" for postage & hence it's a $5 20-gram part with $60 shipping and (worse) a 6-week timeframe ...

I don't want to superglue it, as they need to be pulled for cleaning every now & again, the driver's door window-switch failed in between me dropping it off for pink-slip & me picking it up from pink-slip ...

Oops, it turned out I already had some spares that I missed in the bottom of a box … I think I’ll keep my eyes out for some mint condition ones though, the ones I used on the car are the nicest set & the others look a little worn by comparison.

Scan the fascia, have it etched on tough substrate. 3D print the under bit , woo, sell them to others.

Can you really 3D scan & print to a level of accuracy such that friction-fit of plastic pieces will still work?

Les with the orders of magnitude more expensive option

    jamesinc

    Les with the orders of magnitude more expensive option

    But, it's good.

    Go to Jaycar, buy the machines!

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