jamesinc;30546 wroteI believe the other guy in Sydney is Matt Williams?
Yes, I've messaged him on Facebook & said I'm happy to help if he doesn't know how to use the scan tool.

The engine ECU doesn't check the key transponder chip signal directly, that's done by the immobiliser control unit. Once the key signal is verified by the immobiliser control unit it sends an OK signal to the engine ECU. Without the OK signal ECU shuts the engine down. New keys are added via programming the immobiliser control unit, not the engine ECU. Once you have your immobiliser's 4 digit PIN & the right scan tool, it literally takes only 2 minutes.
@elk

Coming back to the original post do all 850s have the receiver connector up in the glove box compartment? Mine does. Getting the right parts from an Australian car will prove hard
You may need to swap the alarm relay out for a bypass unit or an Immobilizer relay.

If so ...I will be the guinea pig and cough up for a US/UK receiver and will post a solution. I think you just need to make sure your receiver and fob fcc no. match

Info so far...Look up these part no. on fleebay.
Receiver part no. 3545654 FCC cwt5654r
Fob part no. 3545653 fcc. CWT5653T
Are a matching set.

It also appears
Receiver part no. 9148645 fcc no.CWTTFWB1G
Fob part no. 9148646 fcc no. CWTTFWB1G
do to.
7 days later
a month later
Success ! Got a receiver from the US. Installed it to the green plug in behind the glove box.
Reprogrammed it for my old fob. Bingo keyless entry and immobiliser all work.
Sweet, i've done nothing :)
I'll pop a picture up soon
Will changed my whole system over the UK Volvo Guard alarm! That fixed everything!
@SPT940 thanks, glad you like it!

I've got a few 850 kits as well, anyone interested please let me know.
2 years later
HI There!!

I d like to "reactivate" this post.
I want to get my 1994 850 Turbo here over the pits and it looks like it does not have an immobilizer Unit. I fitted a Volvo Guard Alarm II. So i swapped the 210 for that 210/211 Unit and Alarm Horn and so on.
What i need now is that Immobilizer Unit. Or i do not even know if i still need this for Registration when i have the Guard Alarm II System??
If i do, I found the connector behind the glove box.... If i connect that green plug to an Immobilizer Unit (if Volvo original or australian made for Volvo) , do i need to code my keys to that specific Immobilizer Unit Pin?? And how am i going to do that?
I am just not a big fan of these aftermarket parts.....

Cheers
Elk
Hi @Elk, alarm and immobiliser (transponder chipped keys) are two separate systems, you can have one but not the other.

Immobiliser system has keys with transponder chips inside, antenna ring around the ignition which reads the chip then sends the signal to a immobiliser control unit. Immobiliser control unit then tells the engine ECU if an authorised key has been used to start the engine. If the signal is incorrect or missing, immobiliser control unit will tell the engine ECU to shut engine down 2 seconds after starting. These are factory fitted (not available as an accessory kit) and Volvo didn't introduce immobiliser until 1996 model year. While I wouldn't say it's impossible to retrofit, it's going to be a lot of work, and you need to replace the engine ECU in the process. Cars with & without immobiliser have different engine ECUs.

Guard Alarm 2 does have a starter motor cutout feature, although Volvo doesn't call this "immobiliser". If the alarm has been activated (someone attempts to break into your car) Guard Alarm 2 will disconnect the starter motor circuit, making it impossible to start by hot-wiring.

On earlier Volvo alarms, the alarm & remote locking are two separate units, and again you can have one but not the other. 210/211 is the alarm unit, while the green plug behind the glove box connects to the remote locking unit. Guard Alarm 2 is a later, more advanced alarm unit which has built-in remote locking, so you can simply ignore the green plug for the earlier remote locking unit. With 960's I know for certain that up to mid-96 model year, they're still factory pre-wired for this earlier setup with green plug for separate remote locking unit. But I have successfully installed Guard Alarm 2 on these cars & simply ignore the green connector.

If you are just installing Guard Alarm 2, the only thing you need to code is the remote key fob to the alarm relay. This is a very simple procedure which doesn't require visit to the dealer. To do so, close all doors (including bonnet & boot), switch ignition on & off 5 times within 10 seconds (don't need to start engine, just to position II then off), leave the ignition on the 5th time and press a button on the remote within 15 seconds. If you have more than one remote, continue pressing a button on each remote no more than 10 seconds apart.
Great post William, now, if I want to remove the alarm from my 98 R, what do I take out?
I have no fob so can I use fob/electronic box from my other car?
Ex850R;86348 wroteGreat post William, now, if I want to remove the alarm from my 98 R, what do I take out?
I have no fob so can I use fob/electronic box from my other car?
850 or S/V70?
S/V70's have a totally different setup yet again which I'm not familiar with, but I can read up about it in my spare time if you need help.
Or there is a lower model of alarm that gives you central locking and immobiliser.
That system uses an immobiliser relay and the fob receiver.
This is what I have installed in my 850R
there is another post here explaining the parts I sourced.
It is also is easy to program the fobs.
I think Will sent me the relay.
This works independently to the key immobiliser.

Just remember that Australian cars have an after market system. That is best removed.
Aftermarket system on the 960 had enough parasitic drain to take battery from good to dead in 3 weeks. Very shitty
nickm;86359 wroteOr there is a lower model of alarm that gives you central locking and immobiliser.
That system uses an immobiliser relay and the fob receiver.
This is what I have installed in my 850R
there is another post here explaining the parts I sourced.
It is also is easy to program the fobs.
I think Will sent me the relay.
This works independently to the key immobiliser.

Just remember that Australian cars have an after market system. That is best removed.
@nickm Both the earlier alarm relay, as well as the later Volvo Guard Alarm 2 relay has starter motor circuit cut-out feature built in, but Volvo doesn't call this "immobiliser".

If you look at Volvo's factory work shop manual (green books) or parts diagram on VADIS / VIDA, the only thing referred to as "immobiliser" in original Volvo literature is the transponder chipped key system which I described above.
Yes this one I knew it had something about stealing the car on it.
Guess it gets confusing as they are different circuits.

Is this the one I bought from you?


nickm;86373 wroteYes this one I knew it had something about stealing the car on it.
Guess it gets confusing as they are different circuits.

Is this the one I bought from you?

Yes this is the earlier "Basic Alarm" (as Volvo calls it) without the remote locking feature. It works by itself without remote locking, but if you want remote locking as well then you need to add the remote locking unit which connects to the green plug behind the glove box, which I believe you have done.

"Basic Alarm" relay is easily identified from "Volvo Guard Alarm 1" and "Volvo Guard Alarm 2" relays by the lack of green connector on the top of the relay. The green connector on top of Volvo Guard Alarm 1 & 2 relays is for additional alarm sensors such as glass break sensor, ultrasonic sensor and/or tilt sensor, none of which can be fitted with Basic Alarm.
Yes Will that is correct it needs to see the receiver signal.
© 2013-2023 Oz Volvo. All rights reserved. | Forum Rules | Privacy Policy