Just bought a very tired 1972 164E

Fickled · 2022-07-25T11:22:43+00:00

Nice!Have a look back at @Robs 164 projects on here , iirc he was doing a wagon and a 2dr as well, he isn't on here much anymore though.

Fickled

242GT
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/819815865792059/?mibextid=dXMIcH
this could work and cheap enough , just needs mounting brackets

Looks promising.

Especially for "home heating supplies"...?

I've got the rad and fan out and half the manifold nuts. Just waiting for health to improve...?

242GT

I live near where this is for sale if you needed assistance , I dont know the seller though

Fickled

242GT
I live near where this is for sale if you needed assistance , I dont know the seller though

It's OK for now. Pacing myself financially atm. Will just flush out the system and fit a new temp sender in the meantime then see where we're at. ?

Ex850R

All the wreckers have the fans off the cars, any suitable size will do.

Fickled

Managed to get all the nuts off the manifolds. Few were particularly tight - one was finger tight. The inlet came off easily, one of the exhausts needed persuasion.

Was hoping the exhaust could just be leant out of the way, but the steering box stops withdrawal before they clear the studs:

Really didn't want to undo the connection to the exhaust pipes as I struggled last time (with a different car) to get them to seal again. And if I take out the manifolds, I won't be able to *not* strip and paint them...

Meanwhile, took out the temp sender ready for replacement, but...

So I'll test the old one to see if it works. If it works it's good news because I won't have to order another one, but bad news because I won't have found why the temp gauge doesn't work...

Flushed the block and the radiator, but it all seemed pretty clean. The coolant already in it looked pretty fresh, as did the thermostat. Got a sense this job had been one of the more recent ones by the previous owner. Does indicate they may have been having overheating issues...

So, in summary:

1) Need to bite the bullet and wrestle to remove the exhaust manifild to pipes connection

2) Will try and test the old temp sender then try to order the correct one if needed. (Then wait 3 weeks...)

Ex850R

Did you get good flow through the radiator? Hard to check but important to know galleys are not blocked.

Fickled

Ex850R
Did you get good flow through the radiator? Hard to check but important to know galleys are not blocked.

Good question. Like you say - hard to tell, but I think it was OK. Water was coming out as quickly as it went in, regardless of angle - and quite clean.

Major Ledfoot

To test the temp gauge, just ground the sender's connector to the block with the ignition on. You should see max hot. If grounding the sender wire doesn't work, the gauge or the wiring to it is cactus. If the fuel gauge also isn't working, the instrument cluster voltage regulator may be cactus.

There is a temperature sensor for the D-Jet, and another for the temp gauge. The temp gauge sender had a single connector, and is located at the very back of the head on the manifold side, between #6 injector and close to the dipstick and firewall. If you're replacing the gauge sender, there are two types which look the same but have different resistance ranges - I found this out when my 74 145 looked like it was overheating, but wasn't. A replacement sender of the correct type was fitted and the temp gauge sat where it should.

Fickled

Major Ledfoot
To test the temp gauge, just ground the sender's connector to the block with the ignition on. You should see max hot. If grounding the sender wire doesn't work, the gauge or the wiring to it is cactus. If the fuel gauge also isn't working, the instrument cluster voltage regulator may be cactus.
There is a temperature sensor for the D-Jet, and another for the temp gauge. The temp gauge sender had a single connector, and is located at the very back of the head on the manifold side, between #6 injector and close to the dipstick and firewall. If you're replacing the gauge sender, there are two types which look the same but have different resistance ranges - I found this out when my 74 145 looked like it was overheating, but wasn't. A replacement sender of the correct type was fitted and the temp gauge sat where it should.

Thank you for all that. That will actually be useful and I'll give it a go!

Cheers,

1971_144GL

This is the original style fan for your car. It may be surplus to me. I do have a couple of original shrouds, but in Melbourne.

That used sensor you picture appears to be the d jet sensor from the front side of the head. The new sensor you show is for the gauge, and it is fitted at the top rear of the head.

I have a couple of b30 engines here. Also an old school universal mill. If you run into drama with your manifold or find cracks, come over for a beer and free Volvo scrap metal.... sorry, treasure. The flange studs do get a bit nasty. If they break, they are not too though to drill and re tap from my experience.

Fickled

Well, had a lot of it apart to a) see if I could get the temp guage working and b) get rid of the horrible clacking noise.

Has been a lot of work (by my standards) and I've used this week of leave to get it all back together but, alas, not a lot of luck.

And there's now a new slight "graunching" noise at idle, in gear and holding with the brake (e.g. when waiting at the lights).

And it's more gutless than ever...

Took all the inlet and exhaust manifolds off. Gave the exhausts a grind with the wire wheel then a soak in rust converter. Painted with "cast iron" paint which was way more silver than I wanted.

Then gave the side of the block multiple soaks with degreaser and attention from the steam cleaner.

Finally found the temp sender (thank you to everyone for their advice!) and, lo and behold - not connected! The old connector was looking crispy so I attached a new one and reconnected it to the sender:

And the guage now works! Sort of...

Sitting there idling the temp and fuel guages both appear to work properly, but on the move they under report or don't work at all. That's going to be a common regulator or something, isn't it? At least the current setup doesn't *appear* to overheat at idle...

Meanwhile, I cleaned up the manifold surfaces on the head and put in a new gasket, then wrestled it all back on again. (Easier to type than do...)

Flushed and painted the radiator, replaced the thermostat (81deg) and radiator hoses and, since I was there, the drive belts.

Did little things like clean up and lubricate the ball joints on the throttle assembly, cleaned all the FI connections with contact cleaner and got new rubber grommets for the rad bolts.

The clacking noise is very much still there, so doesn't appear to have been the manifold gasket (the point of all this). Surely even I can't have adjusted the valve clearances that badly to make such a racket...

So all a bit disappointing at this stage. I'm a bit over it all to be honest. I'd be interested if the Tassie crew have any recommendations re a Volvo specialist that could go over the engine/injection and drivetrain basics. But, right now I kind of begrudge the expense!

Still looks pretty though...

242GT

Have you checked the earth continuity between senders and engine block.

While the car is stationary and nothing is moving the earth circuit may be fine but once car is moving and bumping its way down the road the earth contact surface area could be so small and compromised that it looses strength.

Do you run an earth strap on the starter motor side of the engine block.

The old woven copper strap type.

Fickled

242GT
Have you checked the earth continuity between senders and engine block.
While the car is stationary and nothing is moving the earth circuit may be fine but once car is moving and bumping its way down the road the earth contact surface area could be so small and compromised that it looses strength.
Do you run an earth strap on the starter motor side of the engine block.
The old woven copper strap type.

Good tip thanks. Will follow it up. Don't think there's a copper strap, though.

Major Ledfoot

A recommendation from way back in 2016 is Steve Caplice at Forgarty Automotive in North Hobart.

If this business isn't around any more, please let us al know - there's no much info about workshops in Hobart.

If you have no luck there, somebody with experience of old Mercs (because D-Jet) might be able to help.

If you want a rundown on all the D-Jet ins and outs, Doctor-DJet's web site is the place to learn it.

https://jetronic.org/en/D-jetronic

Fickled

Major Ledfoot
A recommendation from way back in 2016 is Steve Caplice at Forgarty Automotive in North Hobart.
If this business isn't around any more, please let us al know - there's no much info about workshops in Hobart.
If you have no luck there, somebody with experience of old Mercs (because D-Jet) might be able to help.
If you want a rundown on all the D-Jet ins and outs, Doctor-DJet's web site is the place to learn it.
https://jetronic.org/en/D-jetronic

Thank you for that. Have had good work from Steve back when I was in the world of Alfa Romeo. Might be the best bet at this stage...

1971_144GL

Are you in the Hobart area? I'm still a djet fan, and have dug deep into this engines. I might be able to find an hour or so to listen and suggest a next step.

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