Just bought a very tired 1972 164E

Fickled · 2022-07-25T11:22:43+00:00

Nice!Have a look back at @Robs 164 projects on here , iirc he was doing a wagon and a 2dr as well, he isn't on here much anymore though.

Fickled

jamesinc
KG Trimning have the same selection it looks like https://www.kgtrimning.org/140160-1/engine-parts/camshafts-etc/b30/12990k.html
+1 for VP Autoparts, they are great and have a good selection of vintage parts that you can't find anywhere else

They look promising! I wonder if the exchange rate / delivery time combo is better than the US suppliers....

jamesinc

I think it depends, but usually if the US is cheaper it is because of the shipping rather than parts prices. However the items I order from KG Trimning usually I can't get anywhere else, e.g. the very uncommon turbo jet needle for my B21AT.

1971_144GL

D is the standard cam for the d-jet engine.

Those compression numbers look sound for an old engine, you might be in luck. If things do get desperate, I will only be keeping one of these long term.

Fickled

Popped the rocker cover off - everything's in place. Clearly needs some adjustments, but nothing to cause the lack of power.

Running out of alternatives to the need for a new cam...

VolDan

As @1971_144GL said, compression numbers don't look too bad. There's lots of great Djet info out there, but probably worth double-checking all the basics, first principles. Sorry if you've done already, but I'd set static timing, then running timing with a light.

Fickled

VolDan
As @1971_144GL said, compression numbers don't look too bad. There's lots of great Djet info out there, but probably worth double-checking all the basics, first principles. Sorry if you've done already, but I'd set static timing, then running timing with a light.

Ah, yes - forgot about static timing. ?

Would also fit the symptoms of course. Drove it today and the engine just sounds and feels like it's trying to breathe through a straw!

Checking the static timing looks to involve most of the steps to getting to the cam anyway, so I might as well commit to digging in.

City to Surf next weekend, but I'm ready for a break from work so may try for the following week for some leave. Can at least start getting into it all. Once I find whatever it is, I can then order the parts ready for the Long Wait for them to get to Hobart...?

Roinik

Cam wear is detectable through comparing the lift of each pushrod as the engine is rotated.

OldnDecrepit

Definitely some serious cleaning needed in that engine bay.

Upside is that it makes it nicer to work on and easier to spot potential problems.

Fickled

OldnDecrepit
Definitely some serious cleaning needed in that engine bay.
Upside is that it makes it nicer to work on and easier to spot potential problems.

Agreed! Today I was torn between cleaning the engine bay - which could have felt like procrastinating, or just getting on with hunting down our performance issue - which felt like getting ahead of myself because I hadn't yet cleaned up the engine bay! ?

Nigel

Fickled
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/208596#Comment_208596
Agreed! Today I was torn between cleaning the engine bay - which could have felt like procrastinating, or just getting on with hunting down our performance issue - which felt like getting ahead of myself because I hadn't yet cleaned up the engine bay! ?

Oh the dilemmas we face, 2nd problem is once you start not knowing where to stop

egads (she/her)

That dash is in amazing condition for a 160/140, get a cover ASAP before it sees sun. You only see better when the car hasn’t had windows closed since the 70s/80s or kept in climate control forever

242GT

Check all the electrical contacts for the injection are clean , under the little black cover on the inlet manifold , theres a check you can do with the ignition on and turning the throttle butter fly by hand.

It's a series of clicks that should be heard.

Ill see if Ive still got the factory check information.

Especially clean the Injector plugs and sockets

Fickled

Gave the engine bay a good scrub. Bit nicer to work on. and easier to see where all the oil came from!

Noticed the distributor cap and rotor button are pretty ordinary, so will add to the list of bits needed.

OldnDecrepit

I can recommend a 123 Ignition distributor as a good upgrade for the 164.

Fickled

Some before and afters (just because):

Nigel

Looks great, nice job

Fickled

Aaaaaand now it won't start.

Clearly I've dislodged something during all the above. Spent a happy half hour this morning cleaning up connections around the battery, but otherwise nothing major.

Have confirmed spark all the way to the plugs. Feels like a fuel pressure issue. When I first turned the key it caught - as if there was still some fuel - then died immediately. Thought it might be the fuel pump fuse (on the right side fender), like it was the other day when I was out and about. And I *did* just take those three fuses out to clean the terminals. But there's still connectivity there.

Pushed it out of the way for now (naturally it was blocking Kiri's car...), but any diagnosis tips more than welcome!

Major Ledfoot

Does Aerostart down the intake get it to kick?

Plug wires are on correctly? These dizzys spin ANTI clockwise. (Firing order = 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4)

Beyond that, The Gothenburg Bible PDF in the Oz Volvo Technical Archive may be of assistance.

Fickled

Well there's the first problem - a lead broken off the main relay by my detailing:

Fixed that connection (above), but alas, still no starting.

Disconnected the fuel line from under the regulator and, when turning over, nothing comes out - so it *is* a fuel problem.

Interestingly, when left for a day or two, it does catch (then die) at the first turn, which indicates to me a) electrics are still fine and b) maybe a bit if a leaky injector or six...

To be continued!

OldnDecrepit

Persevere. Just watch that wiring as it can be pretty brittle.

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