Just bought a very tired 1972 164E

Fickled · 2022-07-25T11:22:43+00:00

Nice!Have a look back at @Robs 164 projects on here , iirc he was doing a wagon and a 2dr as well, he isn't on here much anymore though.

Fickled

OldnDecrepit
Looking good there.
I had to clean the engine bay on mine three times to get the bulk of the dirt and grease out. Still find little sections here and there are dirty.

Yeah, never ending job, I think. I've still got that ahead of me...

OldnDecrepit

Invest in a dash mat to protect from further damage.

I also went with tinting on the windows and rear venetians.

If you want to make it quieter on the road, pull out the seats, carpet and underlay and dynamat the floor and up the firewall as far as you can go. Don't forget under the rear seats. Do the same in the boot and the rear panels up to the back seats. Go the whole hog and get a heavy rubber mat for the boot or use some sound-proofing material. Also do the door panels after cleaning.

Fickled

Thanks for the suggestions. The cause of the noise is currently a long list of things that need work rather than the need for additional sound deadening. I'm looking forward to tackling each one in turn. T.

carnut222

Looking good. Are you in need of a clock? I probably have one from a 164 to fit that hole in the centre console. Would need to test it first though. Lemme know if interested and I can have a look.

Fickled

Thanks Greg. Sorry, I meant to mention I do indeed have a clock. Thank you. :)

Nigel

Hi Tony, I saw that car for sale, I was hoping no one would be it so I could get it cheap down the track, I prefer the 72 . I like the look of the dip in the bumper. I live just out of Hobart. Maybe we can catch upo some time

Fickled

Nigel
Hi Tony, I saw that car for sale, I was hoping no one would be it so I could get it cheap down the track, I prefer the 72 . I like the look of the dip in the bumper. I live just out of Hobart. Maybe we can catch upo some time

Hey Nigel. Well at least whenever I sell, it'll be closer to you! ?

The vendors were lovely, if not exactly car people. Much of what they told me about it was wrong, but only through understandable ignorance.

And totally agree - we need to compare notes.?

1971_144GL

Hi Tony,

You can get a peek at the cam condition by removing the plate where the mechanical fuel pump would be, and see even more with a cheap endoscope.

Worn lobes look like this and are almost a certainty unfortunately on the early injected engines if they have never been updated, The early cams seemed to not survive wear of the case hardening. If your engine is very low on power, it may be that the valves are hardly being opened from a badly worn cam ... amongst other possibilities.

There is an outside chance that I have an acceptable used cam in Melbourne, but I'd probably recommend new if you need one.

Your cleaning has made a big difference already!.

Fickled

That's a great help - thank you!!?

What and where do we recommend for a quality standard-spec replacement cam?

nugget_940

Fickled
That's a great help - thank you!!?
What and where do we recommend for a quality standard-spec replacement cam?
T.

I've had good experience with Catcams out of Belgium, but unfortunately it looks like they only make sporty / race cams for the b30 :(

Fickled

nugget_940
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/208497#Comment_208497
I've had good experience with Catcams out of Belgium, but unfortunately it looks like they only make sporty / race cams for the b30 :(

Good tip. Yes, I see they start at "sport" and go upwards for the B30.

Naturally I'm tempted by "sport", but it probably doesn't suit this particular car.

Fickled

While I'm asking for advice, I'll chuck in a newbie question:

While I'm doing a compression test over the course of 6 cylinders, the injectors will obviously be squirting fuel all that time. Should I:

a) don't worry about it

b) unplug the electrical plug on each injector? or,

c) something else?

nugget_940

Fickled
While I'm asking for advice, I'll chuck in a newbie question:
While I'm doing a compression test over the course of 6 cylinders, the injectors will obviously be squirting fuel all that time. Should I:
a) don't worry about it
b) unplug the electrical plug on each injector? or,
c) something else?
T.

unplug the connector for each injector or pull the fuel pump relay whatever is easier

Fickled

This looks promising:

https://classicvolvorestoration.com/product/camshaft-kit-b30-profile-c/

Roinik

Try to find the D cam or Street Performance. You have the injected engine after all.

1971_144GL

Agreed Ian.

The thing is, if the cam is very rough then given the 370,000km, there's a good chance the whole engine will need going through. If good oil has been used the whole time it is possible to do a rings and bearings traditional rebuild, if you're just wanting a car to potter. After that it starts to get machine shop, full internals expensive. A used engine swap might also be an option to allow for a slow rebuild of the original, especially if you haven't built one before?

If there's lots of fine metal or gunge floating around, then a new cam would become old pretty quickly unfortunately.

Fickled

1971_144GL
Agreed Ian.
The thing is, if the cam is very rough then given the 370,000km, there's a good chance the whole engine will need going through. If good oil has been used the whole time it is possible to do a rings and bearings traditional rebuild, if you're just wanting a car to potter. After that it starts to get machine shop, full internals expensive. A used engine swap might also be an option to allow for a slow rebuild of the original, especially if you haven't built one before?
If there's lots of fine metal or gunge floating around, then a new cam would become old pretty quickly unfortunately.

That's a good/worrying point about junk in the oilways wearing a new cam before its time. Food for thought unfortunately.

And I clearly need education re the different cam profiles! SVR sells that C profile and a performance K profile - now you're telling there's a D cam?? ?

Can't say I'm keen on sinking the time and $$$ for a full rebuild on this one, so will keep digging and see what we find. Looks like the sump isn't quite as straight forward to get off as I'd like, but will persevere to see what's in there.

Thanks for the help! ?

Fickled

Found enough time/energy today to have a first look in the engine bay and do a compression test.

Everything is quite grubby, but at first look seems more or less complete/intact.

The leads have a two part insulating plug at the spark end. On cylinder 1 (does Volvo count from the front?) Is missing one of those parts and so doesn't attach well.

The Plugs were barely more than finger tight, but at least came out easily. All were in similar condition.

Compression is nice and even - not sure what the ideal number is for these, but I'm not getting upset by 150-odd!

Will keep digging. Curious about the clatter coming from under the rocker cover, so will check there next.

VolDan

Not too shabby!

valve clearances probably haven’t been touched since 1983 ;)

I get a bit of stuff from VP Auto parts Sweden and they only seem to have the C & K cams for B30

https://vp-autoparts.se

jamesinc

KG Trimning have the same selection it looks like https://www.kgtrimning.org/140160-1/engine-parts/camshafts-etc/b30/12990k.html

+1 for VP Autoparts, they are great and have a good selection of vintage parts that you can't find anywhere else

Fickled

jamesinc
KG Trimning have the same selection it looks like https://www.kgtrimning.org/140160-1/engine-parts/camshafts-etc/b30/12990k.html
+1 for VP Autoparts, they are great and have a good selection of vintage parts that you can't find anywhere else

They look promising! I wonder if the exchange rate / delivery time combo is better than the US suppliers....

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