Volvo 240 won't start, anymore

Essbos

@VolvoNorth I think your ignition leads may be in the wrong order on the distributor - someone with more 240 experience than me may be able to confirm

jamesinc

The broken wire is for the electric clutch on your AC compressor

jamesinc

It looks like the belt is installed correctly. You should check that with the engine at TDC the distributor rotor points toward the driver's headlight (if you look at it from above, 45 degrees down and to the left). This corresponds to the pole for spark plug #1 on the distributor cap. Sometimes the distributor is not clocked correctly (due to prior timing belt jobs getting the aux shaft wrong and re-clocking the distributor instead of fixing the first mistake)

Anyway if that looks correct id start looking at fuel. It would be useful to put a timing light on it though, that would remove any remaining uncertainty about timing.

VolvoNorth

VolvoHordz

Well theres your problem. Number 1 is right, working clockwise from there is goes 1, 3, 4, 2

VolvoNorth

@VolvoHordz

Bravo!!! First turn of the key and wroom.

Huge relief thanks everyone involved.

Next step is to take it to a Volvo mechanic and try get it roadworthy for a club rego.

Roinik

Good observation Mr Bos.

ramrod

So who's responsible for mucking up the firing order?

Major Ledfoot

ramrod
So who's responsible for mucking up the firing order?

It's easily done. (With a B18/B20, the dizzy spins counter-clockwise, but the firing order is the same).

carnut222

I think @Essbos might be right - double check ignition leads - firing order is 1-3-4-2

VolvoNorth

Not sure at what stage I mucked up the order of the leads. Probably when I first did my water pump..

Shall take the car for a test run today see that it runs well only started it yesterday.

Major Ledfoot

VolvoNorth
Not sure at what stage I mucked up the order of the leads. Probably when I first did my water pump..
Shall take the car for a test run today see that it runs well only started it yesterday.

My guess it was when you changed out the cap and dizzy leads.

To speculate about the order of events -

firstly, the cam belt was out a bit, so it ran like a dog (I doubt it would run at all with the way the leads were later);secondly, the change of dizzy cap and leads added a new problem, so it didn't run at all; thirdly, the second go at the cam belt sorted the issues there, but left the dizzy leads in the wrong place.

There's a lesson for everybody here (myself included) - if it doesn't work after changing something, check and re-check the settings / alignment of the last thing that was changed before changing anything else.

I wonder if the hesitation and reluctance to rev (after the cam belt change) has gone away now? Please let us know how your test drive goes.

VolvoNorth

Okay so I took her for a drive today and it seems the problem with hesitation is still a problem..

Firstly, she fires up easily even from complete cold start, but the idle is low. I'm not sure if I would call it rough, didn't seem to sputter or want to die, just low. Around 500-550 rpm. When in neutral I can rev to 2000 fairly easy but hard to get it over 2000. Decided I would try to go round the block and reversing out the driveway, it's like the car only has a set speed. Pedal to the floor and she only does like 5-10. Once on the street going in Drive she does the same thing. Full gas and barely even reaches 1500rpm and won't go faster than probably 10. I drove around a bit and was hoping for it to get better. After about 1min full gas she sloooowly got higher and as I reached a tiny hill she finally got past 2000 and took off. Once in second gear and a bit of speed behind her she was going. But as soon as I slowed down she did the same thing. It did seem like the more I drove the easier it got to get past the 2000rpm. But after lots of looks from neighbours I parked her up.

Is this still a timing issue or is this petrol/air related?

ramrod

Possibly fuel pressure problem either too rich or lean at cold

Control pressure regulator may need servicing but I would check fuel pressure cold and warm before doing anything

Essbos

Sounds a lot like a gummed up fuel plunger to me

VolvoNorth

How would one check the pressure/pressure regulator?

If it's a gummed up fuel plunger, is that something I can remove and clean?

ramrod

You need fuel pressure testing gauges

Or find someone who has

To check if the distributor piston is stuck you can run the fuel pumps (with the engine not running) and lift the air metering plate, you should hear the injectors vary the spray dependent of how high you lift the plate up

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