Found - B230FT short block

Why is that?

GingerNinja

Looking for a late model B230FT long block. Might be interested in just the short block too.

Something with 13mm rods but not too concerned about oil squirters. Is that 1991 onwards?

Will need it sent to Hobart too if I can't drive to you.

Thanks.

Most K-blocks from 1988 on had the big bearings with the rear being the thrust, and 13mm rods.

Squirters are usually fitted to 1993+ L-blocks, which also have round-tooth timing belts. AFAIK, L-blocks with square toothed timing belts were pre-drilled for squirters, but not fitted with 'em.

As @ramrod said, you many be better off using an NA block as a starting point, and just drilling out the holes for the oil feed and return, and then adding turbo-type pistons. NA blocks seem to experience less bore wear. If you're reboring, @VolvoHordz's experiences with sonic testing of the block are worth keeping in mind too; a high mileage turbo block is likely to need a rebore, while you may get away with a hone on a good NA block.

Other than the holes drilled into them for the turbo oil supply and drain, NA and turbo blocks are structurally identical. The later run of blocks (95+) are said to be the best castings.

Compression ratios are governed by the pistons and head gaskets, not the block; NA and turbo pistons are different, and the catalog shows variations on pistons' part numbers across engine part numbers. For example, the grunty B23E used in the 242GTs had different pistons (giving higher compression) and a meatier cam to that used in later, less powerful versions.

It’s also worth mentioning static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio, the latter of which is affected by camshaft valve timing

something you need to know when building a specific engine

You’re setting yourself up for reduced performance off boost

if this is for a road car where 80% of the time this is where you’ll be, it will feel like a lazy dog

the higher compression ratio will also help smooth out the transition between off boost to on, making the engine feel bigger than it is BUT

if you’re the type that likes the rush from going from nothing to everything as soon as possible, the effect will be greater with the lower compression deeper dished turbo pistons. Keep in mind though that torque at low rpm is what gets a car moving

go for it!

have fun and good luck

that’s all I have to say

GingerNinja

Thanks for the excellent info @bgpzfm142

I was hoping to get an FT short block to get lower compression pistons but I hear what you're saying about the worn bores. That seems to be the common problem. I didn't want to sink a heap of money into getting a machine shop to prepare the block. I hadn't considered piecing something together from a less worn NA block and adding turbo pistons. Do people have these kicking around? Let me know if anyone does.

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/190026#Comment_190026

Because the plan is aftermarket computer and boost the daylights out of it with big turbo and suitable cam. Not meaty NA +T daily drive on 15G.

You may well be able to use your ft pistons from the existing engine in a later block if they're not badly worn too. Alternatively ^ that's about $450AUD shipped for oversized pistons but then you're machining.

I've been down this path. Look if you really don't want to spend money then you can take a punt on swapping pistons into an NA block, but my advice would be to overbore. Once you have the pistons, if you do the teardown/assembly work yourself, it costs about ~$700 to wash the block, overbore, surface the deck, and polish the crank.