https://www.wired.com/2012/08/fuel-economy-vs-mass/
Mirage Hyper-Miler
egghttps://www.wired.com/2012/08/fuel-economy-vs-mass/
Yeah, so reducing the mass of the Mirage won’t change its engine or its aerodynamics.
I will absolutely experiment with fuels, but past experience strongly suggests that 98 octane fuel won’t improve the fuel economy of a SOHC 4G15.
It is a common myth that more octane magically makes more power and/or improves economy. Octane ratings are ONLY about detonation resistance - if it doesn’t want to detonate on 91, then giving it more octane does nothing for you.
The whole topic is confused by ECUs being programmed to use knock sensing to alter fuel and ignition timing, but the fundamental point remains: more octane only helps if the motor can use it. As I said, I will definitely experiment, but I seriously doubt that a 1990s Mitsubishi commuter car will benefit from more than 91 octane dishwater.
This statement regularly outrages people on various forums and FB pages, but has never been refuted:
Use the lowest octane fuel that reliably avoids detonation.
Egg, mass is only a fraction of the story when you're moving. It is important if you have a lot of hills to climb though. So, mass relating to friction/rolling resistance is linear. Mass related to hill climbing is linear, however the energy related to the rate of ascent is squared.
Aerodynamic loss related to the front of the car (aka wind resistance) is related to the (area x velocity)cubed.
The long and short of it is to lower aero drag wherever you can, maintaining the radiator cooling inlet at the static point, venting that air behind the car to minimise the disturbed low pressure created by the sharp trailing bluff tail (aka aero drag) and to drag as much air in behind the car to lower the drag further. That is why the most aero shape is a tear-drop.
@Spac check out the Milan SL velomobile for some ideas.
6 days later
I'll be following this to see what improvements to economy your hypermiling mods will make.
And I might even apply some to my daily driver (I too daily an econobox)
a month later
Progress was dragging this home yesterday. It is obviously rooted, but has 55,000km on it so was a cheap way to get a good motor and a set of extractors.
Breaking the caliper off the upright and making the brake rotor disappear is interesting.
time for 11:1+ compression and atkins cycle via updated cams?
also shorten the stroke for less displacement
Philia_Beartime for 11:1+ compression and atkins cycle via updated cams?
Funnily enough, we were talking about that today.
Is Atkins Cycle just Miller Cycle without the forced induction? Or is there a subtlety that I have missed?
It is very clear that the vast majority of motoring journos have no idea how either of them work.
Can you make it look like this?
Aptera Solar-Powered Car With ‘1,000-Mile’ Range Gets 7,000 Preorders for Delivery in 2021 (goodnewsnetwork.org)
Spachttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/188472#Comment_188472
Funnily enough, we were talking about that today.
Is Atkins Cycle just Miller Cycle without the forced induction? Or is there a subtlety that I have missed?
It is very clear that the vast majority of motoring journos have no idea how either of them work.
Yeah, Atkinson is just miller without the forced induction
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atkinson_cycleYou would need intake cams with longer duration of open period
if you also have VVT you can switch between otto and atkinson at will depending on load
Mike is on the money, the late close on the inlet reduces the effective compression ratio on the compression stroke while maintaining the higher CR for the expansion stroke.
18 days later
If you are looking long term to stop using fuel-petrol for a car, and want to invest long term, buy a good quality solar panel set-up. Then buy a nissan Leaf. I know a guy and for $4 of electricity, he gets 250ks. But the power is from coal fired. So buying a good solar panel set-up would make the electricty for the Leaf a lot greener". Plus they they have heaps of grunt, and are fun to drive.
Only one flaw in that logic is that the solar panels would have to be at his place of work.
RoinikOnly one flaw in that logic is that the solar panels would have to be at his place of work.
LifePO4 battery bank at home charging from solar and then when you get home you plug the leaf into the pack and charge the leaf from the batteries at home over night
CanoeIf you are looking long term to stop using fuel-petrol for a car, and want to invest long term, buy a good quality solar panel set-up. Then buy a nissan Leaf. I know a guy and for $4 of electricity, he gets 250ks. But the power is from coal fired. So buying a good solar panel set-up would make the electricty for the Leaf a lot greener". Plus they they have heaps of grunt, and are fun to drive.
Brown coal electricity charging an EV works out about equal to a modern petrol car, from a CO2 perspective.
Black coal is better.
Solar or other renewable is, as you point out, the ideal.
I would just buy an EV if they were cheaper.
5 months later
Figured that this should be my lockdown project, primarily because I am confident that I have everything here to finish it, and also because I am sick of driving the Falcon everywhere.
Probably about 4 hours of work so far, fitted in around home schooling.
My biggest area of indecision is whether to delete the power steering or not. I was 100% sure that I was going to fit the non-PS rack, until I worked out that the manual steer rack is slower.
I now need to decide if it matters or I am just too habitualised to chasing faster steering in rally cars.
It's probably fine to live with without PS, Excels are.
It runs. Solid but not killer day today.
PS delete was easier than expected. Hardest part was working out what was straight on the rack to line it up with the steering column.
It runs nicely, but hard to start. Not worried yet - the extractors are just sitting up against the head…
Got the front Konis in. Totally forgot that S40 springs are a larger diameter, it’s all good…
Need to buy some camber pins because the struts are modified to make the camber pins work better/easier, so now they only work with camber pins.
Rears are ready to go in. Will do it tomorrow when I fit the 2” exhaust that came from the crashed car.
SpacIt runs. Solid but not killer day today.
PS delete was easier than expected. Hardest part was working out what was straight on the rack to line it up with the steering column.
It runs nicely, but hard to start. Not worried yet - the extractors are just sitting up against the head…
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/9VDJ2JPZXZPD/de1a92b8-7fdf-4378-90aa-4d0f8936a714.jpeg
Got the front Konis in. Totally forgot that S40 springs are a larger diameter, it’s all good…
Need to buy some camber pins because the struts are modified to make the camber pins work better/easier, so now they only work with camber pins.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/7WNNXSRVQFV9/847a1017-9cbd-44dd-91a5-1dbe65983ca3.jpeg
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/D82QU8SOYVWS/68f88bcd-ac5a-4859-9a3d-5d9762a51817.jpeg
Rears are ready to go in. Will do it tomorrow when I fit the 2” exhaust that came from the crashed car.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/LDKA16Y7PAZ2/4767e74c-1acf-4228-afbf-2e1394dddbc2.jpeg
Konis should make a nice taught car iirc.