Adrian's '63 122S Restoration

AdrianH · 2021-01-20T07:41:52+00:00

Good to catch up today Adrain and see the car(s) in the flesh! Some great projects and I look forward to following them!

AdrianH

Finally got the engine bay clear and ready to sandblast. Got a small portable unit and just need to source some media for it. Found a source in Melbourne, just need to get down there to pick up or see how much it would be to send.

The last part was removing the battery tray to repair some corrosion.

I don't suppose anyone would have one available to save repairing the holes? There is the main one in the upper section along with holes in the lower rear where the two ribs are.

carnut222

Good progress Adrain! That engine bay looks pretty straight and clean!

AdrianH

Tanks @carnut222, other than the issue with the battery tray it is clean and straight. Will see how it comes up from a sandblast.

Also slowly getting parts to rebuild the front end and cleaning the rest of it.

AdrianH

Following the removal of the front end have been working on stripping down the rest of the car. Mostly done with the interior out and the rear end dropped. Next step is to build a rotisserie to turn the car and clean up the underside.

Not sure what has been done in the past, but I don’t think the upper rear shock mounting point is standard, not with the plate and about 15 bolts to secure it!

ashley186

AdrianH
Following the removal of the front end have been working on stripping down the rest of the car. Mostly done with the interior out and the rear end dropped. Next step is to build a rotisserie to turn the car and clean up the underside.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/VJ91BCFNHUA0/image.png
Not sure what has been done in the past, but I don’t think the upper rear shock mounting point is standard, not with the plate and about 15 bolts to secure it!
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/4K3F80ZFVTOT/image.png

I built a rotisserie for an early Celica using 2 engine stands (450kg) - and a few lengths of 40x40x3mm tubing. Cost about tree-fiddy all up and was super handy.

AdrianH

On the floor of the interior and the boot there is a black tar type material most likely for insulation and sound reduction. Any advice on an easy way to remove? Currently applying turps, allow to soften and then take to it with a scrapper. This takes most off but still leaves a residue. Any advice will be much appreciated, thanks.

carnut222

AdrianH
On the floor of the interior and the boot there is a black tar type material most likely for insulation and sound reduction. Any advice on an easy way to remove? Currently applying turps, allow to soften and then take to it with a scrapper. This takes most off but still leaves a residue. Any advice will be much appreciated, thanks.

I've heard you can use ice or dry ice then hit it with a hammer and it shatters and pops off. Other way is a paint scraper and a heat gun. I think if you google "removing underbody deadener" or something like that you might find some videos.

arebee

Dry ice is a much easier way to remove deadening material. All you need to do is pick it up from a place like BOC, using an Esky. handle with gloves (as it is approx -78 Degrees C).

Leave for a few minutes, scrape off (actually most of it will simple chip off), repeat ad nauseam!

This method is much cleaner that solvent methods or the application of heat.

Worked brilliantly on my 122 Rally car deadener.

Good luck with it.

AdrianH

@carnut222, thanks for the advice, tried a heat gun but a lot of heating for very slow progress.

@arebee I was unsure on the ability with the dry ice but sounds a good endorsement from your experience. Will look into sourcing and application.

Roinik

Just make sure there is plenty of ventillation. Dry ice, being solid CO2, is an asphyxiant when it sublimes and is heavier than air.

arebee

What Ian says is true, however as the CO2 level increases (lets say to approx 3 to 4 %), the first thing that you will notice is a rapid increase in your breathing rate (elevated CO2 triggers your next breath, not lack of O2...) But in a well ventilated area, you wont have a problem.

AdrianH

@Roinik , thanks for the safety heads up. This issue can come up at work in old decline mine headings that have been inactive for time, ventilation before entry. Similar with inclines for CO buildup.

If using the CO2, was going to set up a fan to help with ventilation.

arebee

Check out this rotisserie for design inspiration...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/354050603298377/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=604856464884455&__cft__%5B0%5D=AZXuwG6JCxvITA_uO2EvTj_YJe5fdD-e5M783AhrBGKCHHlW1qOZQxBtb3YsT196mI9bOhrS7EBWoASt1dt5n0lCOk9Xm-mO6PaSCy5_SibuIT24B403vy_BZXcpt3oLBLHXAadnJgdoSRsw2ngKVlnZ3IkQfS0tW9Vjx4fSsC00MMvwKl2hvp-ODnLi59KBmOw&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R

Cheers,

Richard.

AdrianH

@ashley186, looks a good solution with the height being enough to turn the car on its side to get at the underside. Do you still have the set-up? Looks like you are just up the road from me.

@arebee, might need to get my wife to connect to the group not being on Facebook myself.

General question, has anyone carried out a conversion to rear disk brakes on one of these? I have heard that the rear end from a later 1800 could work but will it be an easy bolt into a 1963 model. Is there any local option of a conversion kit to apply to the existing axle?

I am looking at this as part of an upgrade which can quickly be changed back to original if required.

Any advice will be appreciated, thanks.

ashley186

AdrianH
@ashley186, looks a good solution with the height being enough to turn the car on its side to get at the underside. Do you still have the set-up? Looks like you are just up the road from me.
@arebee, might need to get my wife to connect to the group not being on Facebook myself.
General question, has anyone carried out a conversion to rear disk brakes on one of these? I have heard that the rear end from a later 1800 could work but will it be an easy bolt into a 1963 model. Is there any local option of a conversion kit to apply to the existing axle?
I am looking at this as part of an upgrade which can quickly be changed back to original if required.
Any advice will be appreciated, thanks.

I don't have it anymore sorry, I actually sold it onto another bloke with a Celica after I finished. The main thing to keep in mind was to get the mounting fixture setup close to the centre of gravity (I guessed it was a few inches above the chassis rails and I was close) - as mine was not adjustable (a tradeoff I was happy to make). I can probably draw you a diagram of the design if you need it though - using the engine stands meant you got a decently beefy turning mechanism with a Locking pin far cheaper than what it would cost to procure.

arebee

Hi Adrian,

Fitting a disc braked 1800 rear end is very doable, just need to upgrade the suspension mounts to the later 120 series type. I was able to do this as I had a total wreck of a later 120 to gets the bits out of. It involves carefully removing the old mounts, and then MIG welding in all the later stuff. Also you need to swap out the 1800 handbrake cable, and substitute a 140 cable, since the 1800 is too short.

Classic Swede do sell a bracket kit to modify a 240 rear axle to fit a 120, but some modification to the later type of suspension setup is again required... Although they say fitting to an earlier type is possible providing that the suspension arms are modified, just never seen it done...

https://www.classicswede.org/shop/rear-axle-conversion-brackets-120-1800-amazon-67-on

Nordicar also sell a direct conversion setup, but this retains the tapered rear axle, probably fine if you are not doing any motorsport.......

https://nordicar.com/en/product/4245/brake-disc-conversion-kit-rear-axle-ruilbasis-exchange-retourner-austauschartikel.html

Hope that this helps...

AdrianH

Thanks for the advice in relation to a disk break rear end. Will look further into these leads.

Have started to rub the body down, just started at the rear. Big task looking ahead. Does anyone have a recommendation for a place in Victoria to take the body to be dipped? This would save a lot of time with the sound insulation and under car sealant.

In the area above there are a couple of small dents to take out but it looks like filler starting to show in the lower area.

Ex850R

I emailed a couple of places they never respond......

3M strip discs are quick for removal, angle grinder and one for drill arbors available.

AdrianH

Slowly working along with stripping body down, picked up a needle scaler the other day. Helps with small areas and to start with, the boot floor. This has exposed some rust in the boot floor.

Starting to look at how the floor has been formed and to cut the rust out, looks like the lower rear guard section can be removed.

Any advice on how this is attached (bonded or spot weld)? I see there are replacement of these available but hope to retain the ones I have if not rust damaged. Thanks.

arebee

From memory, these are spot welded on. As they look respectable, I'd be inclined to leave them in place.

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