Adrian's '63 122S Restoration

AdrianH · 2021-01-20T07:41:52+00:00

Good to catch up today Adrain and see the car(s) in the flesh! Some great projects and I look forward to following them!

VolDan

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VolDan

1 x passenger front guard

1 x passenger front door

1 x passenger rear door (rust hole lower section)

1 x drivers side rear door

1 x windscreen

$100 for the lot?

Trim and window hardware all seems intact.

I bought them as spares for my resto but didn't use.

Oh and there's a radiator

AdrianH

Hi @VolDan , that sounds great. If you can send me some details I can transfer you the money.

Will follow up with @Major Ledfoot when he is heading over with a trailer and plan for it.

Major Ledfoot

Thread revival time!

@AdrianH - your bits from Tassie should be arriving on the mainland next week aboard my ute.

@carnut222 - do you mind being the intermediate drop-off point?

carnut222

Major Ledfoot
Thread revival time!
@AdrianH - your bits from Tassie should be arriving on the mainland next week aboard my ute.
@carnut222 - do you mind being the intermediate drop-off point?

No worries @Major Ledfoot Do we have a sailing date/arrival day & time yet? I need to get it in my calendar. :)

Major Ledfoot

I'll PM you with details.

AdrianH

@Major Ledfoot, Thanks for the update, goo dwe are able to travel again. From mid month I will be starting to travel to Tassi for work again, been working from home for the client.

@carnut222, if the parts arrive next week, I should be able to get over on the weekend to collect if suitable for you.

Working on getting the old orange 164 out of the shed to make some room and get back into the two projects. There is also an MG to work on with my 12 year old daughter in the mix also!

AdrianH

Finally got the shed sorted out and all the projects are lined up with clear access for work. Getting back into the Amazon (the wife is on my back to have the Aston ready for when the engine is complete).

Starting to look at the engine bay and have a question around the battery tray on teh firewall. Is this removable and if so how is it attached (weld/bonded)? There is a good size hole in it connectingh through to the cabin and I don'r think it shoudl be there!

Any information will be much appreciated, thanks.

VolDan

From memory, it's a drop in box similar to the 1800. While the 1800 is welded, can't recall if the Amazon might be bonded? My Amazon was OK, the current 1800 another story. Might have to dig out the seam sealer for a better look, and try getting around the lip with a cold chisel? Or fab a new bottom plate in situ?

AdrianH

@VolDan, thanks for your response. I fear that it is welded into place which would make it harder to remove for repair. Once I get home to work on it, I will clear the area of teh battery tray and remove the paint around to see if there are spot welds on it. If so will look at needing to repair in place.

AdrianH

Back from interstate work and spent some time this morning on the car. Sanded back the paint on the upper area of the battery tray and confirmed that it is welded in. Can see the weld points so careful drilling to remove. The lower edge looks like it will be harder with a separate section of metal over it.

I feared there might have been a second hole in the tray and inspection confirmed there is one at the back in the base area. To work now on removing to repair.

AdrianH

Taking some time off work to hide in the shed and get some work on the cars moving. Working on both tis and the 164, along with two other non-Volvo projects.

Part of the plan for the 122 is to strip out the front end and clean up and paint the engine bay. Looking at parts for the front end when it goes back in, I am looking at a polyurethane bushing kit which includes new blocks for the sway bar. It is noted that the mount is a two bolt type and the earlier cars need to be adapted, mine has a single bolt and tongue at rear.

Has anyone made this change and what would be the best approach? Would it work to drill through the frame rail from the top and run a bolt and nut to hold? Any advice will be appreciated.

carnut222

AdrianH
Taking some time off work to hide in the shed and get some work on the cars moving. Working on both tis and the 164, along with two other non-Volvo projects.
Part of the plan for the 122 is to strip out the front end and clean up and paint the engine bay. Looking at parts for the front end when it goes back in, I am looking at a polyurethane bushing kit which includes new blocks for the sway bar. It is noted that the mount is a two bolt type and the earlier cars need to be adapted, mine has a single bolt and tongue at rear.
Has anyone made this change and what would be the best approach? Would it work to drill through the frame rail from the top and run a bolt and nut to hold? Any advice will be appreciated.

Yay, progress! I bought the ipd sway bar kit for my 122 wagon but never fitted it. My plan was to drill a clearance hole for the bolt in the bottom surface of the chassis rail, and a larger hole in the top of the chassis rail, and slide a tube down through the chassis rail and weld it on the top surface. Then use a long bolt through the tube with a washer and nut on top. Probably overkill. Maybe just drill a clearance hole in both top and bottom of chassis rail and long bolt through with a thick washer on top. Probably good enough.

AdrianH

Thanks @carnut222 for the tip, will look at using the tube idea with bolt and washer (also throw in a spring washer to keep the overkill going).

Will be good to get some progress going but tomorrow will be lost, helping out for the day at Echuca.

AdrianH

All 4 doors will require some repair work with rust in the lower section. I have got patch panels for the two rear doors. The first has been cleaned up and the lower section cut out ready for replacement.

I have found that one side of the patch will need some trimming to clear the area where the hinge housing is, otherwise a quick fit looks good.

Before welding in will clean up the visible rust, treat the area along with the inner area.

AdrianH

Removed the front end to allow the engine bay to be painted. Stripped down and need to clean and detail, along with a number of new parts.

Only issue is the separation of the lower ball joint from the upright. Been using a separator tool as used on the tie rod ends but no luck.

carnut222

AdrianH
Removed the front end to allow the engine bay to be painted. Stripped down and need to clean and detail, along with a number of new parts.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/YLV23JURBAJE/image.png
Only issue is the separation of the lower ball joint from the upright. Been using a separator tool as used on the tie rod ends but no luck.

I've had good luck with this style...is that what you're using, or are you just using the wedged fork?

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-tie-rod-end-and-ball-joint-separator/377217.html

AdrianH

@carnut222 ,thanks for the advice. The tool you have linked is the type I am using, brought from a different tool shop.

Will have another go through the afternon with some extra encouragment and WD40.

carnut222

AdrianH
@carnut222 ,thanks for the advice. The tool you have linked is the type I am using, brought from a different tool shop.
Will have another go through the afternon with some extra encouragment and WD40.

Maybe apply some heat to the knuckle?? Sounds like it's really stuck if it won't come out with that type tool. Good luck!

AdrianH

@carnut222, was able to separate the parts yesterday with the tool. Let some WD40 soak in for a bit and applied the tool. Needed a few knocks on the end of the tool and the ball joints finally popped out. Both ends had some small areas of rust on the joint (these will be replaced) making it a tight fit.

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