Philia_BearNeeds more boost
It does. Despite the ad explicitly saying “supercharger not included”, it came with the blower.
When I get around to it, I will work out how to fit a smaller pulley to it and then fit the smaller pulley to my car.
Philia_BearNeeds more boost
It does. Despite the ad explicitly saying “supercharger not included”, it came with the blower.
When I get around to it, I will work out how to fit a smaller pulley to it and then fit the smaller pulley to my car.
Seams like the BMW has less failure points
Only if you ignore valvetronic and valve stem seals and headgaskets.
SpacOnly if you ignore valvetronic and valve stem seals and headgaskets.
Knock on wood, zero issues so far
Today I did a thing that has been at least 25 years in the making.
Part 1 is a cheap, (barely) registered auto 1992 180E.
LOTS of rough edges but drives pretty well and not ruined.
But Part 2 is the more interesting part.
It is a 1985 190E with a Lorinser “kit” on it - wheels, body kit and steering wheel. But the real news is that it is a MANUAL one! ?
It’s been off the road for 15 years, so needs recommissioning, but it starts, stops, runs and drives.
The 17” wheels I bought for the 203 look like they’ll fit with some smaller tyres.
I have already bought some camber tops for the front.
What is going to happen to the E part to make it fun? E being for economy in the day so strangled and hobbled......
ready to sell the c200 yet?
Philia_Bearready to sell the c200 yet?
Yeah, I am definitely close.
Ping me a number when you are ;-)
205/40 tyres work.
Unrelated aside: I have four pairs of 205/40R17 tyres of different cheap brands and every single one of them has bad cracking. I had hoped that I’d be able to make up two good pairs, but no.
———
Also got the front power windows working in the 180E - these were factory delivered with manual windows and then poorly converted to electric at the dealers. The factory wiring diagrams are useless because of this.
Plenty of head-scratching lead me to discover a blown fuse located in a stupid spot - an easy fix!
The rear windows have issues within the doors that will require further investigation.
The “add on” motors can be removed and the manual winders added back on, so hopefully I can just do that.
Also got the stereo working. Another blown fuse.
The stereo has been fitted used the time-honoured “twist and tape” wiring method. I upgraded this to the “solder and tape method” which has eliminated the crackling and will hopefully avoid another blown fuse.
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Spac205/40 tyres work.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/745/JRO71PLVPL3O.jpeg
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/588/0GLQ8I9SGMX9.jpeg
Unrelated aside: I have four pairs of 205/40R17 tyres of different cheap brands and every single one of them has bad cracking. I had hoped that I’d be able to make up two good pairs, but no.
———
Also got the front power windows working in the 180E - these were factory delivered with manual windows and then poorly converted to electric at the dealers. The factory wiring diagrams are useless because of this.
Plenty of head-scratching lead me to discover a blown fuse located in a stupid spot - an easy fix!
The rear windows have issues within the doors that will require further investigation.
The “add on” motors can be removed and the manual winders added back on, so hopefully I can just do that.
Also got the stereo working. Another blown fuse.
The stereo has been fitted used the time-honoured “twist and tape” wiring method. I upgraded this to the “solder and tape method” which has eliminated the crackling and will hopefully avoid another blown fuse.
———
Just remember that Mercedes was from the era of "everything is an extra" including the stereo....
Drove the 180E to work today. Overall quite reminiscent of a 240, TBH. Sits on the road a bit more nicely, steering isn’t as good. Both have the feeling of being noisy compared to modern cars, but still entirely capable and comfortable.
The stereo has gone into “Protect” mode. Will fault find at lunch.
Fitted some ex-BMW 15” tyres to the front of it yesterday, along with disconnecting the brake pad wear sensors (the pads are worn to the point that the sensor flickers and annoys me).
Will do the rear tyres in the next few days.
Last week, I went and collected a cheap W202 C220 from Deniliquin.
These are the first common/affordable Mercedes 16V I4 motor (called M111). Being a 2.2 litre one, it makes 110kW, which compares pretty well against the 89kW of the 190E’s 8V M102, and the 180E’s 80kW.
The M111 also has a reputation for indestructibility, and is the preferred option for +T conversions in 4-cylinder Mercs.
It seems to go pretty well as is. Far happier at high revs than the 180E. I suspect that it will be entertaining enough in a 250kg lighter 190E with a manual behind it.
Despite my earlier concerns, the 190E is not a “proper” Lorinser car - the body kit isn’t Lorinser at all - so it is not a special car that needs to be maintained in original condition. The C220’s motor is earmarked for it!
Not sure what to do with the rest of the W202 - I feel bad about scrapping it, but realistically it isn’t worth anything as a car - taking the engine out is only going to make it worth less!
Also washed the 180E and removed most of the black mould spots from the paint. Only stopped because it got dark. And cold.
The 16” wheels look a lot better than the ugly 15s that were on it, and also slightly raise the gearing.
I just realised that I didn’t post any photos of the 190E...
It looks like you may be getting hooked on Mercs... A potentially expensive addiction. The timing chain seems to be a pretty common consumable on a lot of MBs. I’ve got a couple of 450SLCs and they need their chains (and guides) replaced about every 100000km to be safe. About the same as timing belts, which are a LOT easier.
The US delivered 380SLs came with a single row chain. So bad, compared with a double row, that I think it was a factory recall to upgrade it.
One of your early posters said E was for economy. Not sure if he was tongue-in-cheek, but E is for Einspritzmotor, meaning fuel injected engine.
By the way, they all look pretty nice cars.
Needs more LS/barra swap...
Philia_BearNeeds more LS/barra swap...
lol ..... After what Hendo told me about his former Merc, I must respectfully disagree. ?
The 16V in the 190E 2.3-16 was the M102 engine, but those beasts were not common nor affordable.
@Spac now that you're busy with these Mercs, are you still progressing with the 960 rally car? If you are and you have surplus interior trim bits, please let me know.
Major Ledfoothttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/191540#Comment_191540
lol ..... After what Hendo told me about his former Merc, I must respectfully disagree. ?
The 16V in the 190E 2.3-16 was the M102 engine, but those beasts were not common nor affordable.
@Spac now that you're busy with these Mercs, are you still progressing with the 960 rally car? If you are and you have surplus interior trim bits, please let me know.
960 has stalled badly. I am in the middle of a big purge - down to one x40, both Peugeots going back to their original owner, several others to be advertised...
The whole 9-series thing is the biggest area of indecision. Current thinking is to sell both 940s and keep the S90, but this plan is likely to change at any moment.
Let me know what you want and I'll see what I can do.
Oops.
Floor matts to protect floor matts is an interesting decision to make...
Another interesting decision is the bump strip on the *top edge of the door protector panels* . I assume that they were chrome originally, and it was an aesthetic decision.
Car drives ok, although the auto is less co-operative than the one in the white car.
This one is also filthy inside and out.
Couldn’t handle the flaky, stone chipped white grille on the 190E. No good before photos because I never think of them until it is too late.
Tried the “aqua blaster” (wet bead blaster), trying to avoid chewing the plastic too hard.
It worked pretty well.
But the corners were impossible to get clean.
Then I tried with the normal/dry blaster.
Better. Faster, gets more of the nooks and crevices clean.
But not all of them. There’s actually a ton of surface area and you need to rotate the grille to four different orientations (45*, 135*, 225* and 315*) to even see all of the paint, and then repeat on the other side.
Luckily, the seal pick chips the paint out pretty easily.
Bearing in mind that a new grille and surround is about $160 on ebay, I think that there’s about 6 hours work in this one…
At this point, I think that I will leave the surround in stone-chipped white and repaint the aluminium trims in white, and reassemble it. If I make the rest of the car pretty, then I will buy a new grille.