I have watched quite a few YouTubes on how to flush the ATF.

1: The most common method suggests draining the pan and refilling with same quantity, then draining the remainder by attaching a temporary hose to the fitting at the cooler and cycling through 2 quarts at a time.

2: A local Volvo mechanic suggested forgoing the pan drain and just attach a tube to the fitting at the cooler and cycling through drain/replace until fluid is clean and clear.

BTW, while I was at Pick and Payless, I removed the hose that goes in/out of the cooler and am thinking I could easily remove the hose on my car, attach this "spare" hose (with some clear tubing) to do #2. This would alleviate the need to get under the car, remove the skid pan, and drain the sump.

What do you think?

Also, is there anywhere in Sydney where I could buy 12 quarts of the correct ATF (3309) or should I be ordering from Amazon?

Whilst removing the pan, you are given the oppurtunity to clean its inside surface, replace the filter and pan gasket. This will become a more thorough job, then next time you can just drain and refill

    Penrite atf fs

    Should be under $50 per 4L

    Takes 16L to flush

    Start engine

    2L Out

    Stop engine

    2L In

    Rinse and repeat and check the fluid level after flush completed and add as needed

    ramrod

    Whilst removing the pan, you are given the oppurtunity to clean its inside surface, replace the filter and pan gasket. This will become a more thorough job, then next time you can just drain and refill

    I never considered actually removing the pan, only unscrewing the drain plug. I wasn't aware that there is a pan on the AW55. I should look more closely.

      Look what I made today. (Hose is from a spare parts car)

      When I am running the engine, and collecting the 2 litres of dirty fluid, should I be working through the gears? And more specifically, should I put it in Geartronic mode and go through 1-2-3-4-5?

      4 days later

      So far, I have drained the sump and replaced with fresh Penrite FS ATF. Will give it a week or so to settle and then drain 2 litres from the cooler hose. Every other week I will continue to replace 2 litres at a time until I've gone through 16 litres.

      I was also at Penrith Volvo today and they did a software update. That seemed to help as well. Shifting seems smoother up and down. No noticeable clunks going from P<>R<>N<>D.

      4 months later

      The idea is to change it all at once, 16 litres , 2 at a time or till it comes out clean, doing it week about just muddies ALL the fluid together.

        Ex850R

        The idea is to change it all at once, 16 litres , 2 at a time or till it comes out clean, doing it week about just muddies ALL the fluid together.

        You're probably correct and I did it wrong. Next time, I'll do it all at once. But can you explain this: at the end of my street there is a sharp sweeping right hand turn. When I take it, I have to be careful of my speed, otherwise I get a shift flare as it tries to get into second gear (having come to the turn in 3rd). But 100 metres later, there is a similar left hand curve and I have no problems. Feels like gravity (or centrifugal force) sends the fluid to the left causing the flare. Any ideas?

          Im no expert , im assuming fluid levels are correct and considering you had the TCU reset and updated. Its a question for one of the techs on here.

          Im lucky as at 150,000K i did flush etc on my auto and an expert tech said box is fine , he had an Audi on hoist , same auto internals and it was toast.

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