deNs' 1993 940 GL Wagon - "Odin"

deNs · 2020-06-18T02:49:57+00:00

17-02-2018 - Base shellI eventually found a 940 through here, which I bought from James back in Feb last year as a shell, with a bunch of spares. Ideal as a...

Major Ledfoot

If your FT engine had a square-toothed timing belt, it most likely did not have had the oil jets fitted.

I was curious about the type of head they put on the last models of FK engine. It seems they put 530s on the turbo engines even late in the game. Turbo 530s have the advantage of being fitted with sodium filled intake valves, which aid cooling a bit. Unmodified 531s flow a little bit better than standard 530s, but a 531 is the better basis for modification.

IIRC there were RHD versions of manual 16V 740s in the UK, so if so, the clutch master cylinder should fit. From what I recall, the clutch hydraulics are fed from the brake reservoir.

Forget to write earlier how much I'm enjoying reading your build story; please continue.

deNs

Major Ledfoot
If your FT engine had a square-toothed timing belt, it most likely did not have had the oil jets fitted.
I was curious about the type of head they put on the last models of FK engine. It seems they put 530s on the turbo engines even late in the game. Turbo 530s have the advantage of being fitted with sodium filled intake valves, which aid cooling a bit. Unmodified 531s flow a little bit better than standard 530s, but a 531 is the better basis for modification.
IIRC there were RHD versions of manual 16V 740s in the UK, so if so, the clutch master cylinder should fit. From what I recall, the clutch hydraulics are fed from the brake reservoir.
Forget to write earlier how much I'm enjoying reading your build story; please continue.

Yeah the clutch master I have is fed from the brake master reservoir so perhaps it'll be compatible. Would definitely be a tight squeeze from what I can imagine though!

31-07-2019 - Airbox and washer bottle

Picked up some parts from BMG that I needed for the build. Sticking with the factory airbox and needed the washer bottle that sits underneath it as well. Of all the spare parts I got with the car, there's a bunch that didn't come with it that I need to get my hands on just to get it back to stock.

Before the surgery

Moar airflows captain

In true turbobricks style, I cut out part of the intake tube inside the airbox to increase intake awesomeness and removed the foam baffles that would have quietened down the induction noise as well. It was grubby, so gave both the airbox a clean and also got the bottlebrush out and cleaned the inside of the washer bottle as well. It had a huge amount of slime on the inside of it and the filter from the filler neck needed a good clean too.

With that done and the hardware to mount it clean, it's ready to install! But not yet, because the previous owner made a strange cut and fold of the metal sheet under the headlight, perhaps for better air intake, which I plan on welding back in place. Until then I shouldn't install the plastic bits lest I want these new parts to get all melty.

deNs

26-07-2019 - Oil cooler cleaning

I pulled off the oil filter relocator which has a different style oil cooler on each of the engines I have. Initially I was keen on the idea of using the oil cooler that mounts with lines as a tube-and-fin style cooler next to the radiator, but after some reading online, it might be just as good and more compact to transfer the one from the UK engine which uses a donut-style cooler. It acts as a heat exchanger and would have the doubled effect of warming up the oil when cold and potentially assisting with cooling the oil when hot, but might not be as effective for cooling as the external cooler.

I decided I'd use the more compact one from the 1998 FK engine.

I pulled off both after needing to buy a 32mm socket to suit the purpose, and upon inspection of the donut cooler, found it was *completely* blocked in the coolant passages. I thought it was actually blocked on purpose from looking down one tube but a screwdriver quickly confirmed there was a really thick muddy consistency.

To begin the cleanout, I took the hoses it came with, attached one end to the cooler, and the other end to the tap in the laundry, and cranked on the hot tap. Not a great deal came out, but I would say a good soaking and a few sessions will get it clean. At least now, the water is able to flow freely through it. it must've been getting completely bypassed previously. Not so good for the FK engine so will be interesting when cracking that open.

Before mounting, I'll replace the two o-rings, one on the block side and the other between the cooler and the relocator since the originals were pretty crusty.

____________________

2020 Notes: After this point, I didn't like the risk of this being a dud unit with pinhole cracks inside so decided I would use the Air/Oil cooler from the '91 940 instead. I then realised with the wide radiator I couldn't put the OEM oil cooler in the original location, so priced up what it would cost to do an oil cooler set up with aftermarket parts, JIC/AN fittings and hoses.

Link to Relevant thread

I then decided for packaging reasons and because Oil/Air setup would cost a significant amount, to ditch that idea and purchase a new donut oil cooler to replace this suspect unit.

carnut222

Loving this thread! :)

deNs

carnut222
Loving this thread! :)

Thanks :) I really appreciate the feedback @carnut222

July 2019 - ECUs and Wiring

I'll be sticking to factory management for the first iteration of this build, but the question was which modules would I use. I had to do some research about what modules I had.. I had two main LH2.4 computers to work from, a whole bunch of EZK modules for ignition to work with, and some other ones that I found out later were things like ABS modules which are less exciting. The wagon in its previous incarnation was running some 'thelostartof' (TLAO for short) chips with its FT and 15G turbo, and I had one of the leftover ECUs that came with the car.

Fuel ECU and ABS module. That came with the white wagon

Earlier fuel and ignition modules from the 1991 FT engine.

The plan will be to use the 954 ECU, the 148 EZK and see how that goes. Failing that, I'll try the ECU from the 91 FT which is a 563. Failing that, Panic? Probably set fire to them and go aftermarket. Dunno, will see how it goes first. Hopefully it'll work okay.

Got a few of the same ignition modules, but they're not the pluggable/chippable sort (2020 Edit: I now find that you can add a daughterboard to make them chippable, I might do this at some point).

The more I pull back the wiring in the car, the more that concerns me about the state of it, and how many headaches I'm going to have as a result of not knowing where stuff has been chopped when the loom was removed from the car with sidecutters. The ABS Module was completely chopped so I'll route that under the dash instead of across the firewall most likely. I have several looms including a spare full dash loom to cannibalise to make this one up to my standards. All connections will be crimped rather than soldered where possible and some auxiliary fuse panels will be made up for the things I plan on adding.

There's a bunch of what appear to be heavy-ish gauge power leads that were twisted and taped which concern me, since if there's bad wiring here, where else have shortcuts been taken?

Hnng so many fixes required. It'll get there and I'll be much better acquainted with the factory wiring manuals in the end.

2020 Edit: This would prove to be one of the most time-consuming parts of this build, and I'm still not 100% happy with it. Sigh. An update with some of the fixes will come later.

deNs

01-08-2019 - Turbo choices

I have two TD04HL-13C turbos currently. These are the stock turbos that came on 940s and many other volvos of the era. Volvo has been using TD04s of various kinds for decades on all sorts of different models. What people often do is take the larger versions from the later models and chuck them onto the good ol' redblocks. There's some work involved in clocking them to set them up for RWD config, but it's a fairly trivial job (so the internet tells me)

Pictured: Two 13C's and three 90+ manifolds. Two from the UK and one from the '91 940.

After some research, I decide that a good upgrade start point would be the 16T with a flat flange rather than the conical exhaust flange that the 13C has on it. These came on C70 T5s I believe so they're really common, they're cheap and they're a half-decent upgrade over the 13C that basically bolts up and works on the stock ECU no worries.

After asking around and rummaging around at BMG (not pictured), I found a couple of 16Ts but they had more shaft play than I thought was reasonable. After talking to some people it might've fine because they're journal bearing turbos so once oil is through them, the horizontal shaft play may have disappeared.

I asked on this wonderful website and got some responses. Once something materialises I'll post an update with the end result.

Narrator in 2020: And something did materialise

deNs

10-08-2019 - Timing gear

After struggling with the harmonic balancer for a few days trying different methods, I picked up an old 3-jaw puller from my father with the hope that it would work and not pull the outer part separate from the inner part which are separated by the rubber dampener on the pulley.

Thankfully, it worked and I could continue pulling apart the two engines to get to the seals on the engine and get both engine's timing gears off. The reason for this is so I can run the newer round-tooth gears on the older 91 FT engine, which came with square tooth timing belts.

With all the timing gears off, I can finally change over the cam, intermediate and front crank seal. They look miles better on the FT compared to the FK.. and it appears that on the FK there's some remnants of what might've been the alternator belt that shredded itself one time on the UK car. My fault - I think I overtightened that belt and it was on its way out. It snapped while we were on our way to Halfords but of course they never carry anything useful like that these days..

Crank gear and intermediate shaft gear removed from FK engine

All of the square-tooth gears removed from the FT engine

The round-tooth gears removed from the FK engine. Will be put onto the '91 FT motor with the round toothed belt

deNs

2020 Edit: I know probably everyone here is aware of who Yoshifab are... I don't know who I thought my intended audience was when I originally wrote this but I'll leave it as-is anyhow.

21-08-2019 - Yoshifab bitz

Yoshifab are a mob that make and sell parts for old bricks like this one, and there were a few items that I had a decision to make on - buy OEM or upgraded parts to replace worn out or soon-to-be wornout parts, or buy significantly uprated parts that will last the distance. These parts were:

Rubber accessory bushings for alternator and AC bracketHydraulic engine mounts

The first thing that drew me to Yoshifab however, was their kit that allows the original drain fitting for the oil return to be adapted to a -10AN fitting. With our original 940 in Europe, I had endless fun keeping oil inside the engine rather than leaking out via the pinched o-ring on the turbo oil return. It's in an awkward place and having an AN line replace a hard line that just sits in place sounds like heaven after spending an afternoon on a rainy day in a gutter in london with a tube of sealant trying to fix it.

It's one of the few things that I won't be able to transfer to another engine should I decide to rebuild the FK squirter block, but that's a minor issue.

The aluminium accessory bushings replace the rubber units originally attaching the alternator and A/C to the bracket, however over time these perish and need to be replaced. People have often had issues with the polyurethane replacements that various companies make, crumbling as soon as a year or two after install. Since this intends to be a car I keep for the long haul, I decided to spent the few dollars more to get the replacements.

1998 Accessory bracket

1991 Accessory bracket - so many more bushings to replace!

I decided to swap to the 1998 accessory bracket, because there were less rubber mounts to replace - only 3 versus 8. Saves a bit of money there too. This is what the bushings looked like on the 1998 one for the alternator:

The hydro engine mount replacements are like other rubber mounts that yoshifab have sold in the past, but they originally were for 240s. The hydro engine mount delete adds an aluminium extension that sits underneath to get the same thiccness.

Hopefully this will mean I can avoid the issues of the hydro mounts at the slight expense of some NVH. I'm sure it can't be as bad as my track car.. right? The trans mount will be a OEM replacement so it should all be toit as a toigar.

jamesinc

You can in fact pull those Yoshifab adapters back out of the block. you just need to heat the area around them with a torch (both to melt the Loctite and to get some clearance). I managed it once, make sure you hold onto the cap that Yoshifab provides as it makes it easier.

deNs

jamesinc
You can in fact pull those Yoshifab adapters back out of the block. you just need to heat the area around them with a torch (both to melt the Loctite and to get some clearance). I managed it once, make sure you hold onto the cap that Yoshifab provides as it makes it easier.

Hah! Didn't know that. Will make sure I hang onto the cap. Also, I realised much later from an install video Yoshifab posted that you're supposed to heat up the surrounding area to make it easier to press in. I only froze the fitting itself and given the time of year I did it, it was probably pretty cold in the shed too. Oh well. Live and learn hey ?

deNs

29-08-2019 - Paint preparation

Since we now have the block chosen, the decision was made to freshen it up and give it a new coat of paint. Why? Because these things leak, and it's easier to clean and paint it so *when* it leaks next, it'll be a bit more obvious. Also I've never painted a block before and I wanted more red, because redblock.

Lots of wire wheeling, scrubbing and degreasing later, we ended up with a pretty clean block.

At the same time, some effort was put into cleaning the water jacket of the engine with a pressure wash so that any lingering rustyness was removed. There's always going to be some, and while I could've cleaned it out with citric acid, it seemed to be pretty clean already - much cleaner than the 1998 engine anyway.

There's a difference between the two engines since one had the water-cooled oil cooler and the other was air cooled via the external cooler. This meant the 1991 block had the drain fitting on the block itself, rather than on the pipe. Upon removal of the fitting, it was clear that this area collects a fair bit of crap in there.

Once cleaned and flushed, the masking of various parts of the engine that weren't to be painted was done. Lots of degreasing, scraping and cleaning to get the masking to stick to the surfaces.

Next comes the paint!

deNs

12-09-2019 - 16T Turbo

Stepping back a few steps, in a previous episode of the never-ending 940 build, I decided that a 13C turbo was not good enough, and a larger turbo is a better place to start a build. I put the feelers out on the forum for some parts, including a 15G/16T turbo, and @Vee_Que PM'd me about one he was planning to remove from his wagon soon. A few weeks passed and eventually we lined up a time for me to drop by while I was in the metro area.

It's a TD04HL-16T from either a C70 or 850 of some kind.

It was removed from his wagon after the engine exploded quite spectacularly. The turbo seemed like it was in okay condition so the deal was done for the 16T clocked for RWD, and a 3-inch dump pipe to suit. He said the dump will require a little shortening as it hangs down too low as it is, but at the very least it's all there and is the start of an exhaust.

First job was to strip off the ragged old heat wrap and inspect the dump itself. There was quite a lot of surface rust down the bottom, presumably from moisture that gets trapped underneath the wrap. I'll re-wrap the top section it with some that I already had for my other project, but didn't use. I'll weld in a bung further downstream for the wideband since the two bungs there are too close to the turbo outlet.

The drain pipe is a homemade solution to the problem I faced in the UK, but it will be swapped for a 400-series -10AN hose and pushlock fittings on both ends.

The cause for the busted engine Alex suspected was at least partly because of the boost spikes he was getting, and suspected the wastegate actuator might be the culprit. Not wanting to risk it, I ordered a 11PSI new actuator to direct swap.

Will run wastegate pressure for a start, but with the Turbosmart MBC connected for some cheeky bump in boost if things go well.

jamesinc

Paint is the most satisfying part. What paint are you using? I've used VHT engine enamel spray a few times and found it doesn't hold up great, the best paint I ever used was a brush-on high-temp enamel that has so far lasted 7 years without any signs of wear.

deNs

jamesinc
Paint is the most satisfying part. What paint are you using? I've used VHT engine enamel spray a few times and found it doesn't hold up great, the best paint I ever used was a brush-on high-temp enamel that has so far lasted 7 years without any signs of wear.

Hah, I guess we'll see - here's the next post to answer that question ;) I've used the VHT engine enamel spray on a few projects that require stuff sprayed in the engine bay, like airbox shields and the like, but never engine blocks themselves so this was new to me. I've already scuffed it in a couple of places accidentally but I'm not going to be precious about it. I'll make it look a bit nice, but ultimately function wins over form.

If I were to do it again, I'd probably use something better, and something that could be brushed on. Do you remember the brand you used?

19-09-2019 - Painting

With some VHT engine enamel primer and red engine enamel on hand, the final clean with prepsol was done before starting to prime then paint the block. I'm no expert when it comes to painting, so hopefully the prep was good enough and it will hold.

Doesn't look to shabby! Time to make the redblock red again :D

I got on a roll with painting, so I decided I'd try out some of the VHT wrinkle black I got at the same time, and paint the spare valve cover I had. Took some time to remove things like the baked-on sticker and whatnot, and though it does have some imperfections, is a good test so if it works out, I'll use it, but if it doesn't, I still have one on each engine that I can use.

I followed some fellow on SAU's instructions on how to lay down the wrinkle paint and then use a heatgun to get those wrinkles going. It seemed to work remarkably well, though it took a few days for it to harden up, even after leaving it in the sun for a couple of afternoons. I think the trick here is not to rush the job and hopefully it'll hold and be strong.

About a day later I checked the paint, it was still soft, and scraped off the letters with a razor blade. I left it for another week and in the sun at one stage, and dried it again with a heatgun for perhaps 10-15 mins and we'll see if it's enough to make it tough for the long term.

deNs

30-09-2019 - Turbo oil drain solution

With the yoshifab AN fitting line for the block-side of the drain, I needed a way to adapt it on the turbo side. I settled on a Mamba generic TD04 fitting with 45-deg 5/8" hose barb to match the -10AN 400 series hose that would be used with it.

I removed Alex's old drain pipe, used some spray-on copper RTV on the gasket and installed the AN adapter. The old drain pipe had been 'massaged' to clearance for the wastegate actuator, so hopefully this will give me a bit more flexibility there so I can avoid that.

It'll be push lock fittings on both ends with hose clamps to secure the hose. Hopefully that way, a leaking return hose will be a thing of the past, and I just need to worry about all the other oil leaks I end up introducing!

deNs

29-09-2019 - Porting the 90+ manifold

Now that we have a ported 16T, I had to pick one of my 90+ manifolds to match it, since they were all stock. One came on the FK, one on the FT and one I picked up as a spare from the chap I got the second M90 from. The FK one had a massive crack in it, the spare one had minor cracks on a couple of runners and somehow, amazingly, the FT one appeared to be without cracks of any kind.

I wire wheeled it back, searching for evidence of it, but it appears this one is okay! This would be the one. Having never used a die grinder in my life besides a puny one on a dremel, I told myself quite firmly not to stuff it up.

I started by pulling all of the studs off the manifold, as they would be replaced with brand new ones when putting it all together. I then chased the threads to ensure that they were clean, and removed the rather bent stud that was used for the manifold support.

From there, I marked out an initial limit for how far I'd grind back the opening on the turbo side of the manifold, based on the opening on the turbo, and got to work. Not wanting to get shards of metal everywhere. I set up a makeshift booth like I did for the valve cover painting.

I realise it's easier to remove more if required, so err'd on the side of caution when taking material off.

Here's hoping that the additional flow will allow the manifold to remain crack-free for years to come! I don't plan on replacing it with another manifold of any kind anytime soon so wanted to make it as good as it can be. I've read about conflicting reports about how you shouldn't port it because you're making an expansion chamber going from small-big-small, but more than increasing flow, I really just want the manifold to last a bit longer than if it was going to crack from heat-related stress.

This was my first pass at it - and I plan on porting it more after this :)

deNs

05-10-2019 - Skandix Order

I placed a skandix order for a decent amount of the things I needed, which included:

Radiator, heater and oil cooler hosesIgnition stuff (Power module, dizzy, rotor, leads, etc.)PCV stuff (box, hoses, etc.)Intercooler (60mm aluminium drop-in)Harmonic balancer and beltsExhaust/Turbo studsPedal rubbers, seatbelt buttonsOil seals for cam/intermediate/crankTrim rubbers and cldips for rear side windowsRear red-clear-clear-red lightsClear side Markers and clear front corner lightsCrank trigger sensorCoolant temp sensorOEM expansion tank, cap and thermostatM90 shifter bushings, mount and clutch hoseM90 master/slave seal kitsM90 super special gear oilM90 Guibo/rubber connector and hardwareFuel and oil filtersRear timing belt coverAircon seal kitCrankshaft holding toolOthers? Small bits and pieces most likely.

Either way, it was a huge order and got me a large amount of what I need to get this engine in and started. There's other stuff like a radiator which couldn't fit into the weight limit.

Larj!

Unfortunately the intercooler came in a separate box and it got damaged in transit. I tried to see if it was possible to get the cast endtank fixed rather than sending it back but the two shops I called didn't want to touch it, which is fair enough since the repair is likely to fatigue it.

It's a little disappointing that it wasn't packed sufficiently to avoid the damage, but these things happen. Skandix have been excellent through the whole process and are handling it better than I'd expect almost any online retailer to. Perhaps I've just had too many shitty experiences.

I did do a quick test-fit of the cooler to ensure it does fit as expected, and it's perfect.

The intercooler itself looks pretty similar to the KL racing intercoolers from memory, so they might come out of the same factory somewhere perhaps...

deNs

06-10-2019 - Drop and clean sump and oil return

There's a couple of reasons I wanted to drop the sump.

Check what the guts of the engine look likeReplace the Oil pump sealsWhen turbo oil return is cleaned for the new fitting, ensure no crap gets into the sump

When I removed the sump, it had a pretty fancy looking seal on it, which seems like the original to my untrained eyes. It was put together with a jigsaw pattern with some tape joiners and was pretty brittle when removing it. Unfortunately it has a fair bit of baked on crap on it and the bottom end doesn't look super clean, but I'm sure the other engine looks worse.

Spent a fair bit of time scraping the remnants of the old seal off the bottom of the block which was a pain, but necessary for more good seal for the new gasket.

A lot of degreaser later, the sump now looks fairly passable.

Now to install the yoshifab -10AN oil drain. This is a press-fit adaptor fitting so you no longer need to use the OEM drain pipe, which is easy to pinch the o-ring on and I really dislike it.

There were 4... actually 5 steps:

Put the fitting in the freezer for a few hoursUse the provided wire bottlebrush to clean the blockTake fitting out of freezer, apply retaining compound to fitting and blockHammer it in, and hammer a lot. Curse at the fact that you didn't wire wheel the block enough to get in to go all the way. Swear lots.It's never coming out again, so be happy with the amount you managed to get it in and hope it seals.

It's only got about 5mm left, and I thought it was going to be much worse when I initially started hitting it in, but it should do. Hopefully it won't interfere with the oil filter.

Oh well. Now we have -10AN fitting and hopefully no more leaks and can remove and refit super easily.

deNs

10-10-2019 - Radial Oil seals

Crank seals - the bane of my existence. I've destroyed a couple of oil seals on my other car in the past, mainly because inexperience, and I wasn't looking forward to doing them on the B230. Thankfully, it's possible to remove the part on the engine that the oil seal attaches to, but I've heard horror stories of bolts attaching these covers backing off and rattling around, getting intimate with flywheels and clutches.. not fun. Also, that means another thing to need to re-seal, but I had a full gasket set on hand so I was ready.

To make installing them easier, I had a brainwave when discussing the issue with a friend. People have made special tools for the purpose before but they've generally being volvo-specific items or someone has had them made out of metal.

I've got a 3D printer.. why not just measure up, model and print some installer tools? They basically just need to be cups that are the right circumfrence and can interface with the bolt holes on the engine! Additionally, if I measure things up right, I can make them so they will only install as far as the original seals, and no further.

So I went off and took a bunch of measurements of all the seals on the engine, then started sketching designs. I initially designed the first one I made, for the cam seal, to be able to slip the seal over the end, install it, and then remove it once installed on the engine. I'd seen this design on the metal versions so decided to give it a try. The seal didn't slip on easy, despite it being a super thin sleeve - so thin that I was able to rip it off the print and use the rest of the item as-is.

The colour! I love having the purple filament used with everything I've printed lately!

I had trouble getting the existing cam seal out, so I took the cam end cap off to pull out the seal. Unfortunately the cap had a bit of damage on it, so I swapped the cap from the FK engine that was undamaged, and will hopefully not leak any oil.

Reattaching the cap, I'd never attached anything involving bearings before so I had to purchase a torque wrench that would allow me to get down to the torque I needed. An old Aldi one I had from years ago was... not great and was not for lower torque amounts. Once that was done, time to install the new seal with my fancy new tool!

Installing is a matter of screwing in as far as it'll go

Testing depth and dimensions

I tried it out, and success! I then decided I would never again worry about hammers, finding pieces that would fit the size for the seal and worrying about getting it in square.

Installed!

Now proven that it would work, I then modelled up the intermediate seal, which was same circumfrence as the cam seal, but a different depth from the cam seal, and also made up the front crank seal. After lots of cleaning, I had the surface on the block clean to accept a new gasket for the cover, and put that back on. I was then able to reinstall the intermediate and front crank seals. No issues there.

The rear crank seal is always my least favourite. I was planning on taking the engine off the stand to give myself more room, but after thinking about it, realised I didn't need to. I removed the housing and thankfully the gasket was attached only to the housing rather than the block. Protip: the edges of the housing is f*cking sharp, and during cleaning I sliced up my hand a few times nicely.

Takes a while.

So easy!

This one I used the flywheel/flex plate bolt locations to have 4 locations to screw it down with, and it worked first time! It's nice when it does, because it does take a while to print them. Total times for printing:

Intermediate and Cam seals: ~2.5 hours eachFront Seal: 7 hoursRear Seal: 7 Hours

Meet the whole family! Clockwise from top right: Front Crank, Intermediate, Cam and Rear Crank Seal installers

Now we have new seals installed, we can continue putting things back on the engine, like the timing stuff!

I've been thinking for a while whether to make these available for purchase for people - now that I'm thinking about it again I might put an EOI up to see if there's any interest for people wanting them.

ramrod

I've only ever used a socket and a hammer for fitting new seals and never had a prob

No leaks with genuine seals

The only thing I always watch out for is if the seal lip rolls over and loses the spring

Use lots of grease

deNs

ramrod
I've only ever used a socket and a hammer for fitting new seals and never had a prob
No leaks with genuine seals
The only thing I always watch out for is if the seal lip rolls over and loses the spring
Use lots of grease

I'm definitely not saying that my over-engineered way of installing the seals is the only way to do it, because I'm certain the vast majority of mechanics use the same method as you describe for installing. ? I've managed to do it a few times without problem but for me it's just having peace of mind it's installed square, without much force, and to the same depth the original seal was. I just use a bit of oil for the non-viton seals I was installing here and seemed to be ok.

Major Ledfoot
One EOI, right here. Nice work!

Thanks :) I'll create a For Sale thread perhaps when I've got a couple of sets ready to go. Will keep you in mind.

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