jamesinc
Hey guys, I am looking to post 850 wheel alignment specs here. @nickm and @AshDVS I believe you guys have some specs written down? Am keen to know what they are.
AshDVS
I will have them at home.
Though I am open to playing with them a little which I intend to do in the next couple of weeks.
Do you feel that yours are wrong?
* Why?
* What would you like to improve?
* Are you concerns solely around tyre wear?
jamesinc
They're not necessarily wrong, I just don't know what they are. I've never had an alignment carried out. I'm going to be replacing the axles and tie rod ends soon as there's broken seals everywhere, and I'll need to set everything after that.
I'd like it to continue to be easy to drive on the highway, but occasionally I take it through the twistys and would like optimal control (though it seems like the car is pretty well balanced already).
AshDVS
Goodo. Do swaybar links while youre at it.
I'll post of some previous settings that work and post them up later.
nickm
Only info I have is from the UK site where all the angles are the same between models..
Les seemed to think the R settings are different.
I'm still contemplating a set of camber pins, but could not get a definite answer as to the correct size.
If you need a wheel hub impact socket the big one(36 mm), speak now and I'll bring it on Wednesday.
jamesinc
Nick if it's a 1/2" drive socket then yes please.
jamesinc
I have to say actually the car's "balance" (by which I mean grip) is premium. It's running KU31 fronts and Potenza rears, which is working out great.
Definitely going to want to address the brake fade though. Had a few scary approaches to some hairpins.
nickm
Better pads... I'm using Akebono not super high performance but don't fade easily. They are really low dust.
If the rotors are good and calipers are in good nick. Then worn lower control arm bushes can give a vague feel under heavy braking.
And yes 1/2 drive. I'll bring it.
jamesinc
@nickm, do you get a lot of shuddering of the interior decor panels when you go over bumps? Actually, on Wednesday, if you're bringing the 850R, I'd be keen for you to take me around a few of the bumpy streets near my house. I'd like to see what the ride is like in another 850R.
Ex850R
Yeah , I only found one place that seemed to have access to the different settings for my 850R and they were a Motorsport Tyrepower dealer that supplied tyres to WRX club guys and they tweaked mine for less tyre wear around town , less torque steer at speed on the open road is more preferred though.
jamesinc
NB I am still keen to put some actual numbers in the first post. This is all I have come up with so far:
<table><caption>WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS TABLE</caption><thead><tr><th>Application</th><th>Preferred</th><th>Range</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th colspan="3">Camber (degrees)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+0.0°</td><td>-1.0° To +1.0°</td></tr><tr><th>Rear</th><td>-1.0°</td><td>-1.5° to -0.5°</td></tr><tr><th colspan="3">Caster (degrees)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+3.33°</td><td>+2.33° to +4.33°</td></tr><tr><th colspan="3">Toe-in (inches)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+0.16"</td><td>+0.11" to +0.21"</td></tr><tr><th>Rear</th><td>+0.03"</td><td>-0.05" to +0.12"</td></tr><tr><th colspan="3">Toe-in (degrees)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+0.33°</td><td>+0.23° to +0.43°</td></tr><tr><th>Rear</th><td>+0.07°</td><td>-0.10° to +0.23°</td></tr></tbody></table>
Source: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/850-2/volvo-850-s70-v70-c70-service-repair-manual/volvo-850-wheel-alignment-procedure-service-manual/
jamesinc
There's also this somewhat off-the-cuff list of specs from Brickboard (in 2002!) (also no units given, assuming degrees)
<table><caption>850 T5 WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS TABLE</caption><thead><tr><th>Thing</th><th>850</th><th>850 T5 (wagon)</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th colspan="3">Camber (degrees)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+0.0°</td><td>L: -0.6° R: -0.4°</td></tr><tr><th>Rear</th><td>-1.0°</td><td>L: -0.8° R: -0.6°</td></tr><tr><th colspan="3">Caster (degrees)</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+3.20°</td><td>+3.10°</td></tr><tr><th colspan="3">Toe-in</th></tr><tr><th>Front</th><td>+0.20°</td><td>4.10mm</td></tr><tr><th>Rear</th><td>+0.04°</td><td>1.0mm</td></tr></tbody><tfoot><tr><th>Notes</th><td></td><td>RHD; 215/40R17; Suspension: Bilstein B6 / Weitec</td></tr><tr><th>Source</th><td>
Brickboard</td><td>@AshDVS</td></tr></tfoot></table>
Ex850R
Very hard to find R specific specs and due to being lower the general specs are not applicable. USA Rs are not as low as our European spec suspension. Soft cock Yanks can't handle the hard ride.....
AshDVS
Sorry, gents, I will dig up some real data tonight and also put some info in around theory of it.
Ignore ALL alignment data from US sources unless its on a car with an aftermarket spring set.
Ride heights are way different and spring rates are different.
Roads are probably different in surface, construction and road camber/fall.
AshDVS
I completely forgot about this.
Here is the last wheel alignment I ran on my 850T5
Car details -
1995 850T5 wagon
Weitec springs and Bilstein B6 shocks front and rear.
17x7 Titan wheels with 215/40/17 tyres.
FRONT
CAMBER
RF: -0.4 deg
LF: -0.6 deg
TOE
4.1mm toe in
CASTER
3.1 deg
REAR
RR: -0.6 deg
LR: -0.8 deg
TOE
1.0mm toe in
Figures are all static measurements, at ride height. It'll vary with lower (or higher) ride heights.
Camber in the front really needs eccentric bolts fitted to make any real changes, though you can make use of 'slop' in the mounts on the strut assemblies for this too.
You may want to achieve less static camber in the rear if you're towing or carrying heavy loads.
Making changes to toe settings will help or hinder the cars ability to 'track' in a straight line, and improve or negatively impact intiial change of direction or turn-in.
You would typically change this if changing tyre widths too.
Desirable camber for left and right sides would also change depending on LHD or RHD (changing sides of the road you've drive on.
nickm
How did that go for front tyre wear? As that is not far off the standard 850 spec and within the limits.
jamesinc
I've updated my table above. I want to keep updating it as people provide specs
AshDVS
It was good enough for a road car but required a bit of work to get there with that spring set.
More neg camber on the front would have been nice but tyre wear would become an issue on a daily.
I'd also argue that more (only a little) rear toe in would have been good too.
If you're using eccentric bolts to achieve desire front end camber, these can vary between manufacturer too, allowing you to achieve more or less.
My V70 (also a P80 car) needs an alignment once I'm finished with suspension.
I'll post this data too.
Again, it's a wagon (duh)
H&R springs and Ohlins upfront and Bilstein B6 shocks rear.
17x7 Titan wheels with 215/40/17 tyres.
jamesinc
Can you use a camber plate with the stock struts on an 850?
AshDVS
Depending on design, yes.
If its for a road car though, you should be able to achieve reasonable settings via an eccentric bolt kit (WAY cheaper too).
The disadvantage of a camber plate too is that you'd be removing some compliance in a front end that people often already feel is too harsh on our Australian roads.
