• RWD
  • Julian's 1997 S90 "Tony"

Thatd be really neat!

Could it work with the stock controller?

The SC-816 died suddenly one day, pooped in an SC-815 and got sick of the absolute garbage audio quality very quickly.

Pillaged the Alpine 178BT headunit from the 240 and picked up a set of JL series 3s in the 6.5 inch for the front, and a set of series 2s for the rear doors in 6.5 also.

Decided to see how factory I could make it look, ran new wiring through the factory grommets and sleeve for that stealth audio look.

Wondered how Id get the new wiring through, went with a method Id seen some of the commercial sparkies use - Cable lube!

Soldered both strands to the end of the old speaker wire, lubed it up with detergent and pulled it through!

Perfect fit, just needed to open up the door card a bit to clear the bigger woofer surround.

Dropped the tweeters straight into the hollowed out original units, Dremels help!

As much as I would have loved to keep the stock headunit, there was no way I was going to be able to get any kind of quality sound out of it.

Should have the rears in today

8 days later

Tethys and Brembos are on!

A little poke, nothing a bit of camber wont help.

Very subtle, but they are there hiding behind the Tethys.

And a bit cleaner

Ive got a JL RD900/5 and a Kicker VL712 to go in, Then some work on building a manifold for the HX40 <3

JL are a great brand. Their 8" subwoofers are incredible, though so is the price tag.

Ive got a bick JL woofer box here ill never use,a 12 inch in it iirc

I love JL amps? Have a couple and a Kicker amp for sub , I collectedall this for the aborted v70r project.

Might get some info regarding the kicker sub and box :O

    Wow, late to the party and saw this.

    Julian, clearly you have a problem.

    More Volvos is a GOOD problem!

    ?

    Ghettobird

    Might get some info regarding the kicker sub and box :O

    It's a JL about 600 wide/high ported with 10 or 12 inch JL sub....

    Hidden away atm....

    This was to power it, 250W bridged.

    Ahh the old Rockford Fosgates, I remember those.

    Also discovered the front driveshaft is spinning itself out of phase, the front half-shaft is a rubber dampened unit, over time the rubber comes free and the shaft spins semi-freely in the tube, a $330 re-tube job by GJ drivelines should fix that permanently and eliminate the low RPM driveline vibration ive been chasing for so long.

    Not a JL fan

    Always ran cerwin vega's in my stuff

    Or good quality pioneer or Kenwood

    I think I have the largest private collection of Kenwood excellon dual mag speakers in the world at this point....

    A single 12" with the right enclosure and a good amp can hit stupid hard

    3 months later

    In search for some control arms before ordering them online.

    Still going strong, my daily currently again until I get a new front prop shaft made up for Derek

    25 days later

    Never trust a Land Rover to do a Volvo's job.

    a month later

    Before making Tony faster, I decided to make him slower.

    Almost 2 complete trunk kits will be needed, the S90 is already well dampened but can be improved even more.

    At this rate I wont need lowering springs!

    Control arms were next, It was about time

    Fresh bushings and ball joints installed. Thanks @DCW242 for finding me some arms!

    Next up I should get the propshaft rebuilt as its a bit rumbly

    a month later

    Picked up my old T6 from Voldat today, having the snapped head bolt removed and fixed up tomorrow by the Thread Doctor.

    Disco is playing nice again finally, Its a very useful fridge

    Having some exhaust flanges water jetted in the next few days in T4, T5 and T6 variants. These will be for sale when I am happy with the quality.

    All going well I should have the NA manifold off soon and the car off to have a manifold and down pipe fabbed up, Ill be testing the turbo setup on the B6304 before dropping in the semi-built B6284T.

    The plan is:

    B6284T bottom end with ebay rods & new bearings

    Rebuilt B6304 cylinder head while retaining the 3.0L cams

    Holset HX40

    Nuke fuel rail

    Turbosmart FPR2000 fuel pressure regulator

    50mm Turbosmart wastegate

    Maybe a Nuke BOV for SDM wank factor

    But first the B6304 must pop, and I think its getting close as its fuel and coolant consumption has been getting worse ?

    Had the Thread doctor out to suss out the snapped head bolts, 15 minutes and the 2 snapped bolts were extracted with no damage to the threads. Very impressed with the result, cant recommend him enough

    https://www.yellowpages.com.au/vic/narre-warren-south/thread-doctor-the-12645464-listing.html

    Snapped sections were about 30mm below the deck, Threads are in perfect nic

    DXFs finalised, should have some flanges back next week for some trial fitting

    Ignore the non-resolved ports ?

    Block stripped of auxiliaries, tomorrow ill clean up the tops of the bores where crud likes to accumulate, drop the sump and hopefully get the pistons and rods out

    Note to self, drain oil before inverting

    I wont be using the FWD T6 sump, so it goes into the ally scrap bin

    Rod bearings look like complete shit, This motor had blown the No 2 turbo and sent the exhaust wheel into the cat with its shaft still attached. I suspect it had a brief run in with low oil pressure.

    Looks like im going to be pulling the crank out to examine the main bearings, as it would be foolish to assume they will be ok when the rod bearings were so shot.

    @VPT02 and I decided this was the way to go. Especially since im aiming for at least 300rw kw.

    Crank comes out next weekend.

    2 months later

    Started off the week with some PS4s

    More Dynamat. have the equivalent of 36 sq ft all in the boot, the struts are a bit lazy but they do hold if the weather is nice ?

    Fixed a snapped off coax centre pin in my beloved Alpine 178BT, Not much in these

    Ordered some main and rod bearings from Lithuania, same seller that I had purchased from previously for my B25254T2 build for the R.

    Im trying to get a reasonable price on some 139mm H beams, but most sellers dont understand that you want 6x and not 5x rods.

    I have the spare hoist at work for a few weeks so Ive pulled the auto out and will be removing the valvebody to send off to MV automatics for their stage 1.5 rework, It consists of a number of modifications including accumulator springs, line pressure adjustment and a number of other things. I really quite like this dumpy smooth auto and would be nice to see how much it can take without annihilating it. I do have a spare If I do splatter it.

    Mike from MV believes these electric variants of the AW340 should hold ~320 rwkw with their stage 1.5 which makes me very optimistic about geting some life out of the box with little work.

    Ill also be having the converter modified for a 3K stall and having the lockup clutches checked, for 330,000K they sure do still work well.

    Began measuring up for exhaust components and Intercooler sizing.

    115mm from the condenser to the crash bar is great, but there is an AC pressure switch that sticks out and up making a lot of the space here unusable

    Originally I was looking at the Mishimoto J-Spec Race intercoolers, they are rated to an easy 500HP and are good for 40PSI.

    The downside is that I would have to cut away at the under panel support which I am not interested in doing.

    Pipework here is also an issue, there are no gaps in the front panels large enough to safely run a 2.5' pipe to and from a FMIC without major cutting and bodywork. I could run IC piping straight down behind the radiator and AC compressor, but these lines here are all very tight and would make maintenance a pain and make for a very large IC piping circuit - not ideal.

    After much research I have found that any FMIC small enough to fit wont meet my power goals, leading me to look into other options.

    I have priced up each part of the car and know roughly what it will cost to have certain parts made up, The cost of running a PWR Water to air unit is suddenly far more appealing considering the stuffing around and fab work required to make a front mount intercooler actually work. The PWR Water to air kit: PWR5906 looks to suit.

    The radiator will fit perfectly in the usable space in the front and leave space for a trans cooler next to it.

    With some corflute cut to size at 320mmx320mm it fits beautifully. The radiator and fan assembly come out at 96mm, well clear of the crash bar clearance of 115mm.

    Mikael (Moon_walk on Garaget) uses a similar PWR kit on his 960 T6 (Twins retained) and the end result is a tiny intake circuit in a very neat compact package. https://www.garaget.org/?car=100532&image=946333

    Ill probably run the barrel on the other side with the IC pipework running along the front of the cam cover.

    The propshaft in this car has been a problem for a long time, the original vulcanised front shaft had began to slip and is constantly out of phase, I will be having GJ drive lines in Keysborough re-tube and clock it properly so as to get rid of the nasty drive line vibration this car has always had.

    This leaves picking out exhaust components and an auto trans cooler, A switchable 3' AES super duty boost actuated cutout solenoid will make for some interesting driving, Id like to keep it quietish with no drone, so a high flow cat, resonator and muffler will all be going back into it.

    Ill be pulling the valvebody out tomorow and getting it and the torque converter ready for shipping to MV on Monday.

    Good stuff!

    I always believed an air water IC a much more efficient ifea in terms of packaging space and also maintains constant cooling not impacted by ambient air temp.

    (You reminded me i have a boxy air to water IC i was going to put in a V70R P80 sitting with a pair of motocross radiators , somewhere, time to sell! )

    I like the PWR stuff, great quality and Aussie made.

    Got the valvebody and accumulators out today, Ill likely be going for their "Stage 1.5" Shift kit and having my converter modified for a 3K stall.

    One thing I did notice was how shockingly bad the casting quality on the interior of this gearbox was, really shoddy stuff.