Kicking tyres again

paul0075

As yet another thing falls off my not really by choice Commodore, I am finding myself looking at getting another Volvo again.

I found a 1989 740 GL online recently, and it started at 1600, and has been going down by $200 every fortnight or so. It has 190 000 km on it. Gunmetal grey, grey velour trim, and has had a stack of maintenance done on it.

It ended on eBay yesterday, and I just emailed old mate to ask a few questions.

Here's the classified link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161280986282

One of my concerns is that it's in Ballarat, which is a decent hike from old Canberra town.

Being the owner of only 140s, 240s and a 440, I am unfamiliar with the things to look for in a 740. I know the engine and driveline is much the same as a 240 on these 1980s 740s, but what else do I need to know?

egads (she/her)

@wino has a similar 740 for sale in Canberra for around that much if you want a local option?

paul0075

I saw the Canberra one. I don't think it's as tidy as the Ballarat one. Besides I really don't want to own another white car again :) I've had a stack of them.

paul0075

Turns out the one in Ballarat is sold pending a deposit. Apparently I would be the next person he contacts if the sale doesn't go ahead.

After a bit of emailing, it seems the vehicle is ready to go for a roadworthy, pending replacement of front indicator lenses and tail light lenses. Needs AC regassed. Apparently no rust, leaks or unusual noises, and all electricals are working as well.

Spac

In terms of problem areas, 740s are basically 240s with interiors that like to fall apart, more electrical stuff to screw up and less chance of rust.

I know it sounds glib, but if you check all the 240 things and then pay particular attention to the interior and electricals, you're unlikely to get any rude shocks.

Wino's car is quite good - better than he's made it sound/look.

paul0075

I might have to go take a look. Getting it in Canberra or Sydney beats going to Ballarat.

Vee_Que

740 wiring is more logical I think actually and no worse than a 240.

paul0075

You'd hope that by the time the 740 came out, the mish-mash of wiring hidden behind the dash was a thing of the past. I haven't seen any other car apart from 140/240 that looks like such a brothel behind the dash.

volstretch

The 740 has some very nasty electrical gremlins. All of the considerable number of fuses are stuffed in behind the ashtray and molten fuse holders are common. The biggest single source of frustration on the 7 series is the tail lights. Get a new printed circuit for each rear light and you may get 5 or 10 years of trouble free, play with original or second-hand ones and they will just keep failing. The bulb holders punch through the very thin circuit board and won't make contact or the earth. Head linings is another area that seems to be problematic. Other than that, they are a nice car and I still love them.

Spac

Also watch for heater fans doing weird things.
They also suffered the crumbling insulation problem in the mid 80s.

Tigabu

Isn't there an intermittent dash 'dry joint' issue that causes no start/battery issues?

Spac

Is for 940s - I've not had it in a 740, but I may have just been lucky.

Its in the path of the alternator charge light in the instrument cluster. Means that the alternator doesn't charge and the light doesn't come on, so the first you know about it is when the car stops (sometimes the stereo will stop first) due to a lack of battery voltage.
The tell-tale is that the charge light doesn't come on when the ignition is on but before you start the car. Its VERY easy to miss if you're not looking for it.

Dead easy to fix if you can solder.

paul0075

Handy to know, and I can solder :) I'd imagine that a 740 / 940 cluster isn't any worse to remove than a 240 one?

I just spotted a nice 940 on an Aussie Volvo group on Facebook.

Spac

940 cluster is easy to remove, once you realise how damn hard you need to push on the spring clips to release the surround.
Also, you need torx drivers.

paul0075

I needed Torx drivers for my 1992 240 as well. It was a pain in the arse. There were a couple of times I had to replace screws, and I made sure that Phillips ones went in as replacements.

Vee_Que

Torx are better in many ways as long as you own a set of allen key wrenches for them.

A 940 is a good choice post 1992 as it has the bigger fuel tank too. Pom/berry motor group has a 1995 turbo one for sale that needs parts fitted I'm sure would be worth getting too.

paul0075

I only have interchangeable bits and driver for Torx, so it can be tricky fitting them into some of the smaller locations. I prefer using the interchangeable driver as it has a ratchet on it.

The 95

paul0075

@Wino - can you tell me about your 740?

Wino

Uhm...

It's an '89.... Starts, runs and drives fine, new tyres, new battery, new bunch of stuff...

Has over 300,000km's on it but it's tight, the interior and exterior are very, very good, it doesn't creak and moan like most older cars, it still feels right. The auto shifts super smooth.

I have no issues driving it daily (My BMW snapped a throttle cable)

Issues are it seems to blow white smoke on start up and takes a few cranks to start when cold. Needs a litre of oil every month or so. It also needs front suspension bushes.

However, it's registered, has 6 monthsish rego and is roadworthy.

paul0075

@Wino. Thank you muchly.