timbo;c-162040 wroteDo not waste your time with aftermarket axles heaps of people have had vibration issues.
Sandwood keep the c.v boot kits in stock cheaper than USA . I guarantee you just replace the boots and you wont have any issues.
Thanks for the feedback @timbo

With respect to the boot kits at Sandwood Trading - are they decent quality? Also, I see the Volvo kit comes with the snap ring, spring ring and axle end bolt.

When you were talking about the inner race being burred over, were you referring to the splined end of the shaft where the trilobular bearing spider is pushed onto the end of the shaft? I saw a video somewhere of a guy using a puller to get that bit off the shaft so I’m guessing that’s what you’re referring to?

Now while I’m at it I probably ought to put in new lower control arm bushes, strut inserts, etc., etc. ;)
Sand wood ones are excellent quality have the bolts clips grease and everything included oem kit.
Bearing spider is held on with a circlip and only needs a decent tap with hammer/punch to remove.
The outer ends of the race that those tripod bearings run on, is burred over, unlike other cars eg:subaru that are held in with a large clip ring or are simply removable like 850s/p80.
timbo;c-162044 wroteSand wood ones are excellent quality have the bolts clips grease and everything included oem kit.
Bearing spider is held on with a circlip and only needs a decent tap with hammer/punch to remove.
The outer ends of the race that those tripod bearings run on, is burred over, unlike other cars eg:subaru that are held in with a large clip ring or are simply removable like 850s/p80.
OK, I got you now. I wasn’t sure I’d be pulling the rollers off the tripods as the needle bearings go everywhere, but it depends on what it looks like once I open it up. I don’t think it’s been torn for long and not much grease has come out, so maybe not dirty inside. I guess pulling it apart fully is the only way to guarantee no contamination. Thanks for feedback! :)
You dont have to worry about loosing the needle rollers or the rzeppa falling apart they are a very simple design with roller bearings just fragile in high power applications.
Had to do an FCP order for some 240 bits so just ordered the inner boot kit (genuine) as it saves me a trip to Melbourne.
11 days later

Got the RH axle shaft out after watching a few helpful YouTube videos. Not too hard but my ball joint separator didn’t have quite enough span to fit the lower ball joint. Only way around that (other than buying a new tool) was to remove the front lower control arm bush to allow the LCA to move a bit to get the axle out of the hub. Now just going to clean things up, pop the new boot and grease and reinstall in the reverse order...famous last words! The inner boot tear isn’t too bad so I’m assuming the joint will look OK. No time to pop it apart right now. Job for later today or tomorrow. Coffee takes precedence! :)

Got the old boot and clamps off, de-burred the housing and pulled the joint out. Had a bit of difficulty getting the tripod off the shaft as my puller kept slipping off due to minimal flat surface on the casting of the tripod. Cleaned up, installed clamps and boot and tripod back on (used a socket and hammer to tap it on gently)...greased up and installed large clamp, but need the special pliers to crimp the small clamp ($12.50 on evilbay)...probably could save the $$ and rig something up but nice to have the right thing...just means car off the road until pliers arrive. Not a terribly difficult job but a bit messy with all the old grease. I decided to play it safe and mark everything with yellow paint as I wasn’t sure whether the unit is balanced and/or whether the tripod would go onto the spline only one way.

Oh, and now assuming since a bit of (M66 - manual) trans oil dripped out, I probably ought to check the level and just drain and re-fill it, but what oil to use? Haven’t checked the manual yet as it’s out in the shed, but I think it’s 75W-80 synthetic MTF. Probably not something I can get at SuperCrap auto LOL! You’d think the Ford Focus with same trans would be same, but it looks like it might be 75W-90? More pondering!

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-penrite-pro-gear-oil---75w-90-2.5-litre/342314.html

Some GL5 spec oils will eat the yellow metal in the M66, there are some that are safe

Easier to just use a super high quality GL4 oil and not have to worry about it

OK, looks like the Castrol one would be Syntrans 75W-85 GL4...not the Syntrax. Just looking on the SuperCrap website to see if they have anything available.

Most supercraps will keep the Penrite I linked in stock

Sorry I missed the link - THANKS will try for that. :)

That link u sent for the Penrite - says API GL-5/GL-6/MT-1...not GL-4??

This one says GL-4: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-ezy-squeeze-smooth-shift-gearbox-and-differential-oil---75w-85-1-litre/577666.html#q=Nulon%2Bsmooth%2Bshift&lang=en_AU

GL5 MT-1 means it wont damage brass synchros.

Im pretty sure the volvo fluid is gl5 anyway

A1 Auto parts is good supplier,will post. I go up to Niddrie .

I bought this one - hopefully it will be OK: Penrite Pro Gear Oil - 75W-90, 2.5 Litre

Features 

2.5 Litre75W-90API GL-5/GL-6/MT-1Full SyntheticMIL-L-PRF-2105E, Ford M2C-200C

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