Fiesta XR4 (aka Spac’s latest half baked race car idea).

Spac · 2019-05-12T09:17:17+00:00

I got it home at 1am this morning after a big day collecting and offloading stuff. And drinking caffeine for the first time in two years and then laying in b...

timbo

I looked up p2110 for a mkv st150 on my snap on scanner. Can you see live data and check if there's any signal from the pedal?

Can you hear the throttle do it's "wake up routine" when ignition is switched on?

Spac

timbo
I looked up p2110 for a mkv st150 on my snap on scanner. Can you see live data and check if there's any signal from the pedal?
Can you hear the throttle do it's "wake up routine" when ignition is switched on?
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/JISBR73ESZPB/16345035913056020931528167409829.jpg

Good point on the live data. Will check shortly.

Apparently the code is telling you that it is using the throttle to keep the revs down, rather than flagging a fault with the throttle/pedal.

Spac

…

but with that said:

I swapped to the original DBW throttle body, and it is stuck on 18%. Weird, considering that it was working perfectly before.

Back to the replacement throttle and it reads 13% with the accelerator pedal fully closed and 78% hard on the floor.

Somewhat perplexed by the relationship between the pedal and the reading on the scan tool (but this is likely more about my inexperience with such things).

timbo

That is strange, is there any difference in part numbers? Does attempting to start the car cause the throttle to stick / vs just switching ignition on?

It's remotely possible that deleting the stereo has interrupted the high speed canbus upsetting immobiliser etc, but I'm not super familiar with how Ford integrated these models. It looks like climate control is on low speed so won't cause issue.

Usually a case of just jumping the twisted canbus wires at the stereo connector.

You can also test the + - hi speed canbus at the obd connector with a multimeter you should see +2.5v and -2.5v if it's all intact

Does the dash work at all because that usually drops out on P1 models with stereo disconnected

Spac

Dash works. The stereo is still hanging around, so I will try plugging it back in.

Haven’t checked TB part numbers. They are visually identical.

I have been largely assuming that everything is the same, based on the idea that the two years they were brought to Australia were the end of the model with no publicised updates/ series changes.

Spac

Swapped crank and cam sensors, and coil pack this afternoon - no change.

Tried plugging in the stereo, no change.

Then I unlocked a hidden menu in the code reader (not really unlocked… I just thought to investigate what it was).

So… the prime suspect at this point is the MAP sensor.

It is almost impossible to get at - pretty sure that I am going to have to take the front off the car to replace it.

And I discovered this on the connector to the MAP sensor…

I’ve tried to push it back in, but fatness of hand vs space available means that the front is coming back off tomorrow.

Cut the front springs a bit more. I suspect that they will need more material taken off, but it’s easier to cut them more than to add length to a too-short spring…

Spac

Fixed the connector on the MAP sensor (had to take the whole front off the car again to get to it…).

JB Welded the sump. I figured that a catastrophic failure of the JB Weld would result in nothing more than a leak, and I was feeling frustrated and lazy… I might yet replace it.

And the car now runs! ?

It is pissing water out of a pressed-in fitting on the thermostat housing. This will need to be replaced by the thermostat housing from the original motor.

Progress is good!

Now to work out the ABS bypass plumbing. Going to be a nightmare of M12 to M10 adaptors, I think.

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