turboslob
Minor progress - now have 'middle' brake light. Re-wired (fairly dodgy job) the wires from the left-hand tailgate (took way longer than it should have). It was my understanding that the LHS did the numberplate lights too; can anyone confirm? Mine don't work, but I haven't yet a chance to check the globes. They look tricky to access; from inside the tailgate?
Also got one of the lower-door rubber strips 'attached' back on.
Last question; what do people use to attach lenses to the taillight (I'll be sticking in the reverse one)? I thought of superglue, but it might dry a little too quick as I need quite a bead.
Will get a few hours spare this week. Hopefully I can sort the numberplate lights and lens this week and I can take it for a roadworthy.....it was about 0 degrees motorcycling to work today; hanging out for some Swedish heater action!
Thanks.
turboslob
Minor progress - now have 'middle' brake light. Re-wired (fairly dodgy job) the wires from the left-hand tailgate (took way longer than it should have). It was my understanding that the LHS did the numberplate lights too; can anyone confirm? Mine don't work, but I haven't yet a chance to check the globes. They look tricky to access; from inside the tailgate?
Also got one of the lower-door rubber strips 'attached' back on.
Last question; what do people use to attach lenses to the taillight (I'll be sticking in the reverse one)? I thought of superglue, but it might dry a little too quick as I need quite a bead.
Will get a few hours spare this week. Hopefully I can sort the numberplate lights and lens this week and I can take it for a roadworthy.....it was about 0 degrees motorcycling to work today; hanging out for some Swedish heater action!
Thanks.
carnut222
Number plate light holder pops out from the outside to access the globes. There’s a metal tang that you push in from one side with a small flat-blade screwdriver, then pull down on that side while simultaneously sliding the light holder towards the clip side, and it releases the plastic clip ledge from the other side. See pic. I can’t recall which side the number plate light wires go through...sorry.
turboslob
Thanks, Carnut.
Actually had a few mins spare this arvo, and got them sorted. Turns out it was my shoddy joinery of the wires (they do come through the LHS). Joined them a little better and booyah; lights.
Few minor things to do before I take it for a rego check. Leaks a touch of oil, so will be smashing it with degreaser prior.
turboslob
Taillight lens on (used a silicon type adhesive), rear lights working. Re-attached 3 lower rubber door things and the old girl is looking ok. Will give one more wash and take a few pics. It's not perfect, but I'll take it for its first rego inspection.
Concerns are: dash lights (none of the interior lights in the dash work?!), rear wiper doesn't work (would need to do hinge wires on other side) and a minor oil leak. Of greatest concern is the oil leak, looks to be either coming from the front of the engine near where the lower rad hose joins or down low in the sump region. Thinking of trying to book the inspection in on a day with forecast rain to try and mask wet bits!
Idle still pretty erratic. Want to get it registered first so I can use some fuel and rule out the stale fuel.
ramrod
Front oil leaks possibility: Cam seal, auxiliary shaft seal, crank seal, sump, or all of those. If you plan on keeping the car long term, get all those seals replaced along with the cam belt, water pump and drive belts
No instrument lamps can be a blown fuse
Rough idle: First thing to check is for vacuum leaks
turboslob
Thanks, ramrod. I've checked for intake leaks by spraying Ether/'Start ya bastard' around the intake manifold and hoses and didn't notice an increase in idle. Though, haven't yet taken it any further.
Re seals, that's a lot. How awkward are they to replace?
ramrod
That depends on your skills and experience. The best way to learn is grab a bentley manual, read it, buy a good tool set, and you will quickly learn how to work on your car
turboslob
Ta. I've got a big green genuine looking Volvo one, limited motivation and ok tools. Time's my biggest challenge - I'll see what the inspectors say.
ramrod
What the inspectors say is up to them - Do you want to own a car that leaks oil? Or one that could stop at any time due to a cam belt breaking? That's the thing with old classics, be prepared to turn a few wrenches, or make friends with a tow truck driver and mechanic
turboslob
A breakdown is not a significant concern - I have roadside and generally at least one backup vehicle.
One a related note, found what I suspect to be the main oil leak. Was more significant than I first thought (drip every 5 or so seconds) from the front cam seal area. Assuming it's cam seal, as opposed to valve cover. Ordered a new seal last night and will take on job once it arrives. Moderately confident that fixing the seal will solve my oil leak/potential rego inspection issues.
Yet to give her a proper bath, but this is how she currently stands.
Might get out to a wreck on the weekend and try and get the driver's door 'pin stripe' as it looks amiss.
240
@turboslob I probably have one of those pinstrip trim pieces for the drivers door if you can't find one
Also if you're replacing the cam seals, you might as well do timing belt and water pump at the same time.
ramrod
Don't forget the front crank seal and auxiliary shaft seals too as they won't last much longer (if not already leaking) as well as cam belt, tensioner, water pump, drive belts, radiator hoses
turboslob
Did the sneaky and popped in a new cam seal tonight.
I wasn't sure exactly how far to reinsert the new seal; I'd read 3 mm more than the prior one but the leaker was an Elring which I presume not to be OEM.
Old one was pretty much falling out, which made me think of crankcase pressure. I'm yet to pull the oil separator box, but I did do the two following things:
1. Balanced the oil cap on its opening - no probs.
2. Put my hand over the oil cap at idle and could feel a mild suction.
Do those two things confirm I don't have pressure issues?
All things going to plan, will get it in for an inspection this week, now the oil leak has ceased.
ramrod
You should still change the oil trap, as you don't know how long it's been there if it has even been replaced before
jamesinc
turboslob;c-158993 wroteI wasn't sure exactly how far to reinsert the new seal; I'd read 3 mm more than the prior one but the leaker was an Elring which I presume not to be OEM.
Sometimes it doesn't matter, it depends how much of a lip is worn into the cam. If it leaks you just bump it in another mm or two (or out)
turboslob
Well, it's on the road. Passed a blue slip first go!
Done a few hundred ks already, hoping the idle stumble will fix itself with clean fuel. Hasn't happened yet, but enjoying being warm and on the road. Will occasionally update thread when new (exciting) stuff happens.
Intent is to sort driver seat, do coolant, diff, g/box, clean PCV box and a few minor things. Might even make it to Bathurst later in the year, if all goes to plan (enjoyed a gander in Canberra last year, sans Volvo).
If there's no warning on the dash, is there a point to check codes? Ie, if it's throwing a code it'll warn you on the dash, yeah?
ramrod
What year is the car?
turboslob
1990
ramrod
Then yes there should be a lambda lamp on the left of the cluster, I think it is the first lamp from the left. Check to see if it lights up with ignition in P2