turboslob
When does the g
240;c-156975 wrote@turboslob have you looked at FCP Euro? I find them a bit better on price than IPD, although shipping is still a lot.
I'm also in Canberra so could potentially split postage costs at some point. I was planning to do an order in about 6 weeks, not sure if you're wanting to wait that long though.
By the way your headlight reflectors look very faded, which is common on these. You should try and find some replacements as you'll be amazed by the difference.
Each reflector is held in by 3 white clips which usually break on removal, so you should have spares on hand.
It's very fiddly but it wouldn't hurt to replace the oil breather box too, it's located on the engine block under the intake manifold.
And also clean the throttle body, it will likely be dirty.
I looked at FCP Euro, but they didn't have a few things I needed (need an annoying reverse lense for one of the tail-lights - I saw a light is $100!).
It's likely I'll make an order in the next few weeks. Sold my other car today so in more of a rush to get it done.
Did new oil and filter today. Oil filter was more awkward to get to than expected and the oil draining from it gets on errything. Also noticed a more severe oil leak than I previously thought, and lower rad hose could do with replacing (hose clip looks like it's really digging in on the engine side.
Another question; what's the hose that looks like it comes off the exhaust headers and heats back towards the lower right-hand side of the radiator? It's covered in silver/foil looking material and doesn't transfer fluids. Some sort of thing to speed up getting the engine to operating temp? If that description's too bad, I'll snap a pic.
240
turboslob;157060 wroteil filter was more awkward to get to than expected and the oil draining from it gets on errything.
People rave about how easy 240's are to work on but I hate doing oil changes for this very reason. I find putting a plastic bag over the filter can work as the oil then goes in the bag instead of all over everything else.
turboslob;157060 wrotewhat's the hose that looks like it comes off the exhaust headers
The idea is that it feeds hot air into the airbox to help the engine get up to temp quicker (eg if you live in the snow in Sweden). There's a thermostat which is meant to control when hot vs cold air comes in but in reality it stops working. So you're better off removing that hose and blocking off the hole in the airbox.
carnut222
turboslob;c-157060 wroteWhen does the g
240;c-156975 wrote@turboslob have you looked at FCP Euro? I find them a bit better on price than IPD, although shipping is still a lot.
I'm also in Canberra so could potentially split postage costs at some point. I was planning to do an order in about 6 weeks, not sure if you're wanting to wait that long though.
By the way your headlight reflectors look very faded, which is common on these. You should try and find some replacements as you'll be amazed by the difference.
Each reflector is held in by 3 white clips which usually break on removal, so you should have spares on hand.
It's very fiddly but it wouldn't hurt to replace the oil breather box too, it's located on the engine block under the intake manifold.
And also clean the throttle body, it will likely be dirty.
I looked at FCP Euro, but they didn't have a few things I needed (need an annoying reverse lense for one of the tail-lights - I saw a light is $100!).
It's likely I'll make an order in the next few weeks. Sold my other car today so in more of a rush to get it done.
Did new oil and filter today. Oil filter was more awkward to get to than expected and the oil draining from it gets on errything. Also noticed a more severe oil leak than I previously thought, and lower rad hose could do with replacing (hose clip looks like it's really digging in on the engine side.
Another question; what's the hose that looks like it comes off the exhaust headers and heats back towards the lower right-hand side of the radiator? It's covered in silver/foil looking material and doesn't transfer fluids. Some sort of thing to speed up getting the engine to operating temp? If that description's too bad, I'll snap a pic.
That’s the intake air pre-heater hose. It’s probably not really required for Australian conditions - more for places where it gets sub freezing often. There’s a thermostatically controlled flapper in the air filter box and often it gets stuck in the pre-heat direction, which means the engine is drawing in hot air when it’s not required. Apparently this can cook the mass airflow meter. I always remove the hose and the flapper valve, thermostat and right=angle tube from the air box and block off the air inlet port where it would have been drawing in the hot air. However, it could be picked up as a non-compliance during a roadworth inspection. You can usually unbolt the hot air pipe duct from the exhaust manifold and often just slap the heat shield back in place so it doesn’t look like something is missing.
ramrod
However, it could be picked up as a non-compliance during a roadworth inspection. You can usually unbolt the hot air pipe duct from the exhaust manifold and often just slap the heat shield back in place so it doesn’t look like something is missing.
True, but I really doubt a safety inspector would care if this was missing, let alone know the car even had this hose in the first place. They're usually not that fussy. On my cars I remove the hose and block the hole in the airbox to prevent foreign material getting in there. I also remove the guts which consist of the thermostatic valve
jamesinc
240;157062 wrotePeople rave about how easy 240's are to work on but I hate doing oil changes for this very reason. I find putting a plastic bag over the filter can work as the oil then goes in the bag instead of all over everything else.
You can also add this shield which helps keep oil off the engine mount rubber:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8506/103960-right-engine-mount-heat-shield-240-turbo
turboslob
Just ordered a few parts from IPD. Checked this site 2 seconds after and realised 'James' was ordering too! Doh! I did it as I felt excited after a productive few mins today (and figure I'll need a rear reverse lens for rego inspection).
So, today's half hour:
1. Checked fuses, that sorted out the stereo.
2. Started it up after oil change and some fresh fuel, runs better. Not perfect, but better (still, every few seconds there's a minor miss/stumble and the idle drops - same thing happens when holding it at higher revs too). Also, idle drops too far when you cut the throttle in neutral/park (but doesn't quite switch off).
3. Checked gearbox oil. It's too full, but better than too empty. Slight red tinge when wiped which is good. Shifts well.
4. Removed questionable sticker from rear window.
Bought some double sided tape, and will take on the lower rubber door things next week.
Noticed the internal rear brake light (one in middle in glass) isn't working. Is there a common problem with these? Prior owner said the rear wiper hadn't worked in ages (can't imagine that's an issue) though I'm thinking it could be related to the brake light not working. Wiper, prolly not a roadworthy issue. Brake light, yep.
If I find it doesn't have power, has anyone removed this guy before? If it's no good, or a wiring issue (which could be a nightmare to track down) I was thinking of removing it as not all wagons have central brake lights.
jamesinc
It's usually the wiring at the hinge that's the issue, it fatigues over time and eventually frays and breaks. You can make up a new loom and pass it through, it's not terribly hard but requires some basic wiring know-how.
Open the boot and have a close look at the underside of the hinges. If you see wires sticking out, mystery solved.
carnut222
The idle dropping too fast as you described could be a number of things. Vacuum leaks - check the vacuum hoses, and check the plastic accordion hose between the air mass meter and throttle body - they often rub on the shock tower and wear thin and/or fatigue. Take it off and shine a light through and look for splits etc. Being a 1990 it should be LH2.4 injection. There will be a small diagnostic box on the passenger side shock tower. Check for codes using the small LED (you’ll need the manual - I prefer Bentley manual - to check the codes). Also make sure the throttle body is clean, and adjusted properly (throttle stop, linkage, cables and throttle switch). The throttle switch gives a signal to the computer when throttle is closed to send it into idle mode. Also there’s an idle air control valve below the inlet manifold (silver thing with 2 approx 20 mm diameter hoses). They can get gummed up causing idle issues. Check hoses/connections.
ramrod
Don't just check vacuum hoses, replace them with new ones. It's too cheap not to. Sometimes you can't see a tear or crack and you'll still have a leak and the car is old enough anyway that they will all be gone regardless
buddyglitch
Yeah rear brake light is a roadworthy item, so are the rego plate lights. I had to fix these on mine recently. Easy job, but takes a couple hours of mucking around.
From memory.. The rear wiper and brake are on the right hand side loom, and the rego lights and central locking actuator are on the left. May as well fix both while you're at it.
I found there was enough slack to pull the looms through, cut off the problem area and re-solder/heat shrink the wires. I did this as temporary measure to pass roadworthy and plan to buy the OE harnesses when these fail. So far its been 6 months and all good.
carnut222
buddyglitch;c-157203 wroteYeah rear brake light is a roadworthy item, so are the rego plate lights. I had to fix these on mine recently. Easy job, but takes a couple hours of mucking around.
From memory.. The rear wiper and brake are on the right hand side loom, and the rego lights and central locking actuator are on the left. May as well fix both while you're at it.
I found there was enough slack to pull the looms through, cut off the problem area and re-solder/heat shrink the wires. I did this as temporary measure to pass roadworthy and plan to buy the OE harnesses when these fail. So far its been 6 months and all good.
They'll probably last another 20 years! :) That original wiring was super-fine strand designed to take a beating, but I don't think Volvo planned for these cars to last 30+years!
turboslob
carnut222
Nice score! Definitely go back and get the gauges and gauge holder plus wiring and oil temp sender if you can. The oil temp gauge is fairly uncommon and the sender should be in the engine oil drain plug. Also grab the blue driving light switch in centre console to go with the fog/driving lights.
By door “pin stripes” do you mean the black and stainless steel trim strips? If so, those just pop off (plastic clips may break but are easily replaceable). On the earlier models they’re thinner and a bit harder to remove, but the later models as pictured should pop off easily using a paint scraper or thin screwdriver.
240
@turboslob where is the car? There are probably some parts I could use
By the way with the steering wheel, you should look out for one from an 88 or 89 model as they are smaller in diameter but thicker, and much nicer to use.
turboslob
Yeah I wanted the gauges (I took the outer piece and a blanking plate), but as I didn't bring a screwdriver I just would have ruined everything. How hard is it to pull through the wiring from a gauge to the sump plug? The car is a bit of an arachnophobe's nightmare, and I'd like to avoid getting on the ground and in dark places where I can.
By pin stripes, I meant what you've described more accurately. Is there a better way to push? I pushed top down and while there was flex, is seemed to be held on pretty well.
@240, it's about 40 mins out of Canberra. If you tell me what you want (and it's easy to get) I'll grab it for you if I get there again.
240
@turboslob don't worry about pulling all the wiring through, you just need the gauges and the sensor itself from the oil drain plug. So you can cut the wires.
It also looks like that car has cruise control. Even if you don't want it, it would be well worth saving the system.
Do you think you could grab me the glovebox? It's just held in with a few screws.
turboslob
Glovebox is no worries - just the 'door', yeah?
Regarding cruise, on the left stalk, yeah? What do you need to grab, and any idea how to? I'm not sure where it goes to or how easy a stalk is to remove.
Thanks for tip re oil gauge - should be straight forward (so long as I remember something huge for the oil plug - I had to dig out a 1 inch socket for mine!). Wait, so I'll need an oil pan and jug too if as I'm a responsible sorta guy?
turboslob
One more Q, then back to work.....
Anything I should take from under the hood? It looked all there besides rad hoses (distributor or ECU or anything worth taking)? Got an alternator, starter motor and water pump all of unknown condition.
240
Not entirely sure about cruise control to be honest, you might need to do some research to see what the system consists of. I know there will be some vacuum components as well as probably some electrical ones.
Let me get back to you about the glovebox, I picked up one this morning from someone, which I may be able to use.
Samman88
@turboslob messaged you regarding the oil temp gauge!