Greg's 79 245GL Barn Find

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Comments

  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Swap the rod or weld in the adjustment part of it to existing.

    Yeah I haven’t pulled apart the new slave but hoping I can just pull it apart and swap in one of the adjustable rods. Only problem there is the old master the clevis is worn so the holes are sort of oblong...I think I have several so maybe can pick the best one of the bunch. I also have the slave from the 740T so could possibly use that but was kind of saving it for the turbo swap into my 91 wagon.

    Quick blast with MIG or stick and drill new hole.
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Would a few washers under the pivot help the clutch position?

    Hi Dave - how do you mean? I think the only real way to bring the pedal back up would be to extend the rod. The pivot on the top of the pedal isn’t adjustable unfortunately.

    The pivot point that the clutch fork rides on in the bell housing. If you spaced that out would it change the pedal position? I will be doing this on my car because of a t5 swap.
    Nope - the clutch master rod is fully extended rearward and “bottomed” on the lock ring, so the pedal will not rise any further without a longer rod. I don’t even have the clutch pipe or slave installed yet - just looking at the master and clutch pedal here. AFAIK the clutch pedal position on a 240 is set by the clutch slave rod length as the pedal is spring-loaded to return to the up position. Usually the pedal is set to rise fully until it hits the up stop on the bracket from what I can tell, and that makes it level with the brake in the full up position.
    heavy_dd
  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria
    Greg, I haven't ever seen that issue before, the pedal should indeed rest on the "stop" on the pedal box, and it seems like the master cylinder pushrod is too short and holding the pedal down.

    Is it possible that you have a Land Rover Discovery master cylinder? Do a Google Image search and you won't think I'm totally crazy any more!

    I have some 240 cylinders at home that I would be happy to measure the pushrod length on for you.
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Greg, I haven't ever seen that issue before, the pedal should indeed rest on the "stop" on the pedal box, and it seems like the master cylinder pushrod is too short and holding the pedal down.

    Is it possible that you have a Land Rover Discovery master cylinder? Do a Google Image search and you won't think I'm totally crazy any more!

    I have some 240 cylinders at home that I would be happy to measure the pushrod length on for you.

    Hi Angus - this one is obviously a “generic” one (possibly the same as the Discovery one? I think it’s a Lockheed Martin one - the Volvo one should be LM15007 IIRC) that I bought from a guy who sells them as a replacement for the 240 part, as it also has a different coarser thread on the flare nut (new nut provided)...and yes, the pushrod is shorter and that’s what’s keeping the clutch pedal from coming up to the stop as the pushrod is bottoming (topping?) out on the circlip. I pulled the rubber cover off and had a look. The seller said I might be able to swap to my used pushrod...will see. I need to have a look at the spare bits I have and see if any of the pushrods are decent (they all seem to wear oblong holes where the pin goes through). The other option is I can probably cut the pushrod and make up a sleeve arrangement to extend it if need be...just a bit of a hassle. The cost of the new master was quite cheap, but the work involved to make it right is going to offset that. I actually bought 2 of them as I think they were only about $30 each, so I can pull apart the 2nd one and have a closer look before I pull the car apart again.
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Made a bit more progress today. Drilled hole for 93-style auxiliary wiring pass-through corrugated tube/grommet at LH side of dash panel (will need that for things like cruise control, outside temp gauge, oil pressure gauge and vacuum gauge). Got the LH side dash plate and complete 93 wire harness removed from donor car and installed in the wagon. Now concentrating on removing any other useful bits from the 93 sedan body before I send it to the crusher (see for sale thread for update).
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    alphaxbgpzfm142
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    OK, update on clutch master cylinder. This is the one from classicswede.co.uk @DaiBrace that I bought a couple years ago. As mentioned, the fixed-length pushrod was too short, meaning the pedal sat too low vs. brake pedal. On further inspection, the pushrod was not removable (must be crimped into the piston?) so I cut the rod about 10 mm from the clevis. Found an old K-jet fuel injection hose barb fitting with correct internal diameter. I threaded both ends of the rod and the internal bore on the fitting, screwed the fitting onto the pushrod and clevis bit onto fitting, and voila! I now have a clutch pedal that sits up against the stop and all good! So just be aware that while the price is good on these (or was when I bought them) there may be some work involved in fitting it to your car (in addition to the fact you’ll have to cut the clutch fluid pipe and fit the provided coarse-thread flare nut, and re-flare the end of the pipe).

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    egadsVee_Que
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Got the heater box reinstalled today. Quite tricky to get the rubber gasket seated at the top while also getting the water pipes and A/C pipes to line up and go through their respective holes in the dash, but got there in the end. Also pulled the wire looms through past the strut towers so that’s all coming along. Next step will be to swap the wiper spindles with the 93 sedan linkages and cables and re-install...then more work on routing the harness. Also need to decide what I’m going to do about the door harness pass-through. I measured the 93 body grommet hole sizes and positions so likely will pull the doors and cut the correct size holes for the large accordion-style rubber grommets. I noticed since the RH side doors have been replaced on the wagon at some stage, they already have the oval grommet holes to suit the new grommets. One less thing to do there. I do plan to put in power windows, locks, speakers etc. so having the newer grommets will be a plus and it looks tidy.
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  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria
    I still think that master cylinder is actually a Land Rover part! The Lockheed 240 master cylinders have a pushrod that looks different, and the right thread for the 240 tube nut.

    Ya know, I was pretty sure that '79 models had the oval holes in the doors and body pillars, plugged by blanking grommets on lower trim levels, but obviously not, or at least not all of them.

    1980 models definitely had them, as that was the first year where 260 GLE models had power windows, central locking, and power mirrors, as well as the door speakers, and that amount of wiring into the doors required the rubber boots.
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    I still think that master cylinder is actually a Land Rover part! The Lockheed 240 master cylinders have a pushrod that looks different, and the right thread for the 240 tube nut.

    Ya know, I was pretty sure that '79 models had the oval holes in the doors and body pillars, plugged by blanking grommets on lower trim levels, but obviously not, or at least not all of them.

    1980 models definitely had them, as that was the first year where 260 GLE models had power windows, central locking, and power mirrors, as well as the door speakers, and that amount of wiring into the doors required the rubber boots.

    Yeah, re: the master cylinder, it is the one Classic Swede is selling to suit 240, but obviously it’s not correct for the job. I guess it might be more readily available if the Land Rover was sol in larger numbers?

    I wish it did have the oval holes for the wiring, but no such luck...will have to get the correct size hole saw(s) and hack away at it! ;) I forgot power mirrors - I have a set of those somewhere too. I’m thinking I might just put a single power window switch on the driver’s door (i.e. same as passenger side front door switch) as it saves a lot of wiring mucking around and not REALLY necessary to be able to control all the power windows from the driver’s door. The car is small enough you can reach 3/4 of the switches from the driver’s seat anyway if need be. I’ll see what I have in the way of window harnesses...guess if I have the correct harness I’ll do a proper job! :)
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Nice work! Any dynamat type stuff going on the bulkhead?
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Nice work! Any dynamat type stuff going on the bulkhead?
    Not external...maybe do some internally but I’m sorta getting past that point LOL! Isn’t that always the way? It already has the absorbing and damping mats (original) and damping stick-on deadener on the panels, so I might just look at adding another layer of absorption (the reconstituted shredded cotton stuff you can buy at Clark Rubber for example that has the foil backing)...

    egads
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    Got the wiper pivots and mechanism reinstalled today. Would have been easier to do that before the heater box, but not too bad. Just fiddly to access the bolts for the pivot that sits above the heater box. I plan to install the wiper motor next and test it to make sure everything works as it should before I get too far along with installing dash components. I can confirm that the length of the wiper pivots is different for the later post-86 cars. Talking right-hand drive of course, the LH side pivot is longer as it sits near the centre where the raised cowl grille is on the later cars. The RH pivot was within 5 mm of the same length on early and later cars although I didn’t do a precise measurement. As stated earlier I went with pivots from an 85 with the bolt-on arms, and used the linkages and cables from the 93 donor car.
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    You lost me on that post, where does the king keep his arm (ies)?
    A. Up his sleevies....
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    You lost me on that post, where does the king keep his arm (ies)?
    A. Up his sleevies....
    Sorry no time to take pics at the moment. Probably would help! :)
  • Enjoying this thread.
    About the wagon, i knew a guy 3 years ago who bought the same model wagon, to turn it into a "speaker car".
    There is a competition somewhere in Australia where people build the biggest speaker they can make, and build it inside the car.
    The wagon is a huge space for such a "speaker".
    Even the angle of the front windscreen plays a role in this madness.
    So he took the back seats out, and the whole back area is now a huge speaker. LOL!
  • Sound offs are all over the place - back in my misspent youth helped a mate put a 152dB stereo in an LD Astra (same platform as N13 Pulsar).

    I am enjoying this thread too - learning a lot about interchangeability of parts on these old girls.
  • Speaking of speakers, I’m not sure what I will do in that respect. I’ll be using the front door panels and speakers from the 93 donor sedan, so that part is sorted, but the sedan had no rear speakers. I might just run that way in this car, or look into putting some in the lower rear door panels as that’s easy enough. I was looking at what I need to do for the door wiring. As previously mentioned, the later cars have the rubber accordion grommet things for the wiring, with larger oval holes in the body and doors. This car has had the driver’s side doors replaced at some stage so the oval holes are already in the doors. The left rear door also has the oval hole. However, the left front door appears to be original and doesn’t have sufficient flat form in the area where the large oval hole needs to be. Obviously they changed the shape of the metal stamping in 1980 or later. So, I’m thinking now that I will not be able to use the later style wiring grommet on the passenger front door. That’s a bit of a bummer but at least that door doesn’t have as many wires as the driver’s door. Since we returned from Japan/Hawaii holiday, I haven’t done much on the car other than to investigate the above. Also cleaned up and installed the wiper motor from the 93 donor. Hard to get motivated with the cold rainy weather we’ve had lately! Another 50 mm of rain yesterday. The falls near us are really roaring now and walking trail is a bit flooded to get down to them. Such a difference a month can make as the falls were dry when we left home!
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    ds245Vee_Que
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Get some Dynaudio mid bass out of a c70. Lower rear door...
    carnut222
  • A bit more S-L-O-W progress. Got the holes drilled for various components in engine bay including coil bracket, headlight relay bracket and ignition amplifier, and got those bits mounted. Also reinstalled power distribution block bracket (same holes used for 93 part on 79 car in this case). Buttoned up lines to brake master cylinder and bled brakes.
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  • And to balance things out, a DOG pic (too many cats on here LOL!)
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    timbods245
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