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140 suspension ride hight 140-164

Hi to All
Have been installing a 164 -140 front suspension unit into a an old Austin.
Its all looking good but for reference l need to know the distance between the bump stop and the its stop at standard ride height. If any one has a lowered car , how much they lowered it and the bump stop distance they have
Thanks Mark



Comments

  • @rob or @bgpzfm142 would have measurements I think. @Rob has a lower 164 and @bgpzfm142 has a few different 140’s at different heights.
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    Can I suggest that you measure the total travel, and aim for ride height to be about one third of the travel used.
  • If nobody does it beforehand, will get some measurements after I get back from The Trip and have had rest, and after it's stopped raining. So may be next year (i.e. next week).
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    My measurements aren't really going to help too much.. my bumpstops are modified..
  • Thanks for your interest and so far 1/3 of the total travel sounds promising. This afternoon l removed the springs and set the ride height at 1/2 the total travel to the bump stop. Steering is connected with all the Volvo control arms and drag link to the Austin steering arm and idel arm. Steering moves freely from lock to lock . Looking toward some measurements
    Cheers Mark
  • I have a 164 with 140 lowered Kings springs fitted to the front, they're designed for the lighter four cylinder engine so it has minimal clearance between the bump stops and the points they contact. I should be able to get a measurement some time in the next few days.
  • I have a 164 with 140 lowered Kings springs fitted to the front, they're designed for the lighter four cylinder engine so it has minimal clearance between the bump stops and the points they contact. I should be able to get a measurement some time in the next few days.
  • Hi Angus .. Yes its in but my desired ride height could be a problem. and thanks that will be a help At the moment l have a ride height that is 1/2 way in travel which gives me a 20mm over standard Austin ride height . Love to drop it another at lest 30mm and maybe more if able without trouble
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    They do have a lot of travel - so half is probably going to be fine, and less isn't automatically a catastrophe.
    Somewhere around 80mm of bump travel is plenty for a modified car.
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    Hi some pics of the front end .
    It is bolted in place . but would still like to know the average ride height to bump stop.
    It is set at 50mm to bump stop.
    As you can see the tie rod l had to cut and flip one end over to fit on top of the Austin steering arm.
    I would like to also find out the taper angle and size of the tie rod ball joint .
    So l can order an inner and outer tie rod ends with a rod adjuster.
    Cheers
    egads
  • What's the Austin going to have in it and what diff?
  • o0Fpjc1h.jpg
    Volvo diff and mybe a B30 with 4speed overdrive ,( if Any body has one for sale!! The engine mounts are there.
    Roinik
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    Volvo 960 motor fits with some persuading.
  • The front end is now setting in the car with an engine on top .

    Steering all sorted with Mercedes 500e control arms to the rescue.

    The car haply sits on a set of ford focus 16 inch steel rims with 215 x 65 tires

    So what is needed now is the braking system. As we all know 164 calipers are hard to find so to keep the project moving l am happy to go with some 140 series calipers and discs.

    At the moment l have a Mazda 929 RX4 tandem master cylinder which bolts up fine but the brake lines foul with the clutch master. So l will change with a !inch Datsun 260 z which have the lines coming out the other side.

    But what i have noticed is that the later Volvo P1800 has a duel circuit with the mounting bolts up to down !! But will it fit ??NOT GOING TO RUN A POWER BOOSTER .. NO ROOM

    Ideas....

  • So what is needed now is the braking system. As we all know 164 calipers are hard to find so to keep the project moving l am happy to go with some 140 series calipers and discs.


    Somebody on TB is planning to do a run of adapter brackets to fit Willwood calipers onto 140/ 164s, using 164E vented front rotors.

    These TB threads may be of interest.

    http://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=65962

    https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=350655


    With regards to the brake booster space issue, @Vee_Que once suggested to me to run a remote booster similar to an Amazon / 120 setup, when I anticipated that I may have booster space issues with my 16V project. His idea was more appealing than using a Hydra-Boost type setup.


  • Thanks and will keep them in mind once and if the car gets near the road.

    Once the car is finished and l have the LOOK l want and it DRIVES fairly well i will throw coin at it

    Until then a little reserved .

    Thanks Mark

    P.S thanks for your input on the seat frames

  • I have an 1800 dual circuit master cylinder here you can take measurements from. It has been on the shelf for a year or so and not yet fitted, a few more weeks should not hurt.

  • Lance, keep up the good and interesting work.

    Your project brings back memories from when I put a Volvo B20E motor and 4 speed gear box into an 1954 Austin A40 Somerset in 1974.

    The Volvo front cross member was slightly modified to fit still using Volvo top and bottom wishbones fitted with Koni shocks. The only part that was a pain was to have a sway bar and mounting brackets and steering box brackets made to suit. Rear engine/gear box mounts were also made to suit along with a custom tail shaft. A Volvo 144 rear end was used. The brake system was from the 144 GL with the booster on the left, the bar from the pedal to the booster on the left side was shortened to suit. The brake lines were new to suit. The wheel rims were removed from the centres and new ones were re manufactured, welded/riveted to the original Austin centres so that the hub caps could be used.

    Apart from being lower by 75mm and having a wider track and tyres the car looked like any 20 year old Austin A40, not even getting a second glance from the motoring public until I put the foot down. Inside, the only obvious alteration was the position of the Volvo remote gear lever. The Austin steering mounted gear lever was removed.

    First drive on a winding road it was a real bugger, with initial mild under steer instantly snapping into violent over steer. It was the worst handling car in the wet. It was inclined to do doughnuts even under a very light throttle when taking off from the lights, that upset other motorists! It was bloody dangerous! Handling was soon sorted out with softer front sway bar and firmer shocker settings. Softer rear springs with the shocks set to a firmer settings and a rear sway bar was fitted.

    The Austin ultimately handled very well and had an extremely high "WTF was that factor" when pushed a bit.

    I sold the Austin during 1985 soon after I bought a 360 GLT Volvo. The whereabouts of the Austin is unknown today but rumours surface saying it is still around.

  • HI Laurie .Glad it brought back memory's.

    Your mods sound a bit more complex to mine . Would have been a good ride and a little different.

    Mine will also be lowered standard looking with wide steel rims and leather bonnet straps but retro - standard red interior

    One of my favorite reads in the 70s to 80s was the trading posts ( hot and modified column )

    E.G A Commer van with a 265 Hemi


  • Thanks DMC will take you up on your offer on the calipers and the master cylinder.

    I can bring the pedal box with me to try , so the master cylinder can stay with you .

    Thanks Mark

    PS pm soon

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