bigal
Hi guys, I'm creating this thread for our new member @Timvo
Tim, reply here and tell us about your v70 dramas and we'll help you out. Cheers, Al.
Timvo
Main rear seal is leaking. How big a job is it to fix and what do I need to look out for.
Timvo
Ex850R
I would drop out subframe and do an overhaul on all bushes and steering rack etc etc.
Water pump and drive belt parts too.
bigal
@deger @Philia_Bear @ex850R @iceton1975 @gav and anyone else..
Is this a common problem with this era Volvo with the 2.5T? Do you see many issues on the later ones like mine (04 xc90 2.5T)?
Other than ensuring the PCV system is working ok what else can be done to avoid this bastard problem?
Philia_Bear
Is the pcv clogged?
The only time I see leaking rear mains is from
1. Failed seal (uber rare but happens)
2. Clogged pcv (super common)
3. Overfilled with oil (idiot owners)
Fix pcv, then clean the cheap out of everything, drive it for a month, clean it again and then check it
The bell housing can hold a ton of oil so it can continue dripping for weeks even after the leak stops
jamesinc
@bigal moved to Troubleshooting section
jrc
I had this problem on my v70 20 V
Slipping clutch too that will happen soon enough. Blocked PCV is a causal agent though. Only way to replace the seal is to separate engine and bell housing and remove flywheel. then the $25 seal can be put in.
Considering clutch parts are $500 US or so ex FCP and there is 4-6h work on separating everything and putting it back together you might as well do the lot . And the transmission inlet seal which costs $9.
Ex850R
jrc;124396 wroteI had this problem on my v70 20 V
Slipping clutch too that will happen soon enough. Blocked PCV is a causal agent though. Only way to replace the seal is to separate engine and bell housing and remove flywheel. then the $25 seal can be put in.
Considering clutch parts are $500 US or so ex FCP and there is 4-6h work on separating everything and putting it back together you might as well do the lot . And the transmission inlet seal which costs $9.
Or get another car....
Unless you do work yourself it is bordering on why waste that cash.
VolvoDeger
It's not a common problem as most cars can do this but make sure it's not the rear cam seals leaking first.
gavinh
Ex850R;124400 wrotejrc;124396 wroteI had this problem on my v70 20 V
Slipping clutch too that will happen soon enough. Blocked PCV is a causal agent though. Only way to replace the seal is to separate engine and bell housing and remove flywheel. then the $25 seal can be put in.
Considering clutch parts are $500 US or so ex FCP and there is 4-6h work on separating everything and putting it back together you might as well do the lot . And the transmission inlet seal which costs $9.
Or get another car....
Unless you do work yourself it is bordering on why waste that cash.
This how we can afford older volvos like the V70XC
Timvo
Philia_Bear;124351 wroteIs the pcv clogged?
The only time I see leaking rear mains is from
1. Failed seal (uber rare but happens)
2. Clogged pcv (super common)
3. Overfilled with oil (idiot owners)
Fix pcv, then clean the cheap out of everything, drive it for a month, clean it again and then check it
The bell housing can hold a ton of oil so it can continue dripping for weeks even after the leak stops
PVC is not blocked.
Timvo
gavinh;124404 wroteEx850R;124400 wrotejrc;124396 wroteI had this problem on my v70 20 V
Slipping clutch too that will happen soon enough. Blocked PCV is a causal agent though. Only way to replace the seal is to separate engine and bell housing and remove flywheel. then the $25 seal can be put in.
Considering clutch parts are $500 US or so ex FCP and there is 4-6h work on separating everything and putting it back together you might as well do the lot . And the transmission inlet seal which costs $9.
Or get another car....
Unless you do work yourself it is bordering on why waste that cash.
This how we can afford older volvos like the V70XC
Going to pull motor out myself. See how I go. Does anyone have a workshop manual for one of these???
gavinh
I got one off ebay for $15-20 from memory uk Haynes manual, worth the money, if you hit any issues, might be easier to drop the subframe and remove from below, as you will have plenty of access @Ex850R have you had the pleasure of dropping the subframe?
Timvo
gavinh;125471 wroteI got one off ebay for $15-20 from memory uk Haynes manual, worth the money, if you hit any issues, might be easier to drop the subframe and remove from below, as you will have plenty of access
@Ex850R have you had the pleasure of dropping the subframe?
I've been told that as it is an AWD it is easier to drop out the bottom, can't wait for that experience! I'll have a look for the manual. Cheers
gavinh
Yeah will be a case of disconnect the prop shaft, wiring (hopfully just one plug) like the earlier white block, cables, vacuum for the hvac and c/c, strut tops and hoses. Then the 4 bolts to the subframe and the top and bottom engine torque arms
gavinh
There's plenty of how to's on turbobricks etc
nickm
Not hard to do, just time consuming and dropping the trans out is heavy work.
Support the motor and drop the sub-frame.
Bell housing bolts befit from a wide rage of 14mm sockets 1/2"and 3/8 " drive with flex head and extensions.
VolvoDeger
Asking the same question before you go to all this trouble, you sure it's not the rear cam seals running down.
Timvo
VolvoDeger;125484 wroteAsking the same question before you go to all this trouble, you sure it's not the rear cam seals running down.
No checked both of them. Cleaned off oil. All oil is coming from down low.