Viviana
I’m finally surrendering to the urges I’ve resisted for years and going to look seriously at a 2012 C30 T5 Lifestyle Auto with a bit less than 46K on the clock. It’s at a dealership and they’re asking $19.5. Can I get the price down any? When I drive it are there any typical symptoms of issues I should be aware of? Any and all advice much appreciated.
Philia_Bear
Tryers and general condition and volvo dealer service history
If its been serviced not at volvo it is an issue as only volvo can do critical software updates
Not much to major to be replaced in 6 years and 46k km
Should have need serviced once a year regardless of km
C30s retain value better than most other volvos and 20k is pretty fair assuming its solid and is fully optioned
Got a link to the ad? I might be able to give some specific advise
c30c30
I paid $16K for mine at 42,000km... but that was private sale, and a pre-facelift model.
At 46,000km and 5 years there shouldn't be too much wear. It should drive like a new car. The handling should be good, brakes should work without issues, and the transmission should shift smoothly up and down without flaring or unexpected clunks or noises.
The only things that are likely to require doing are rear brakes that are super soft and don't last long. And after 5 years you'll also want to change out all the fluids, coolant, brake fluid etc if it hasn't already been done. I'd also consider a partial change of the transmission fluid. I changed mine last week at 62,000km and it wasn't looking too good. The transmissions are supposed to be sealed for life but that is rubbish.
If it's been serviced by "the book", then it will need new air filter. These are specified to be changed at 60,000km intervals, but that is too long and it's probably filthy.
The battery is probably the original, and expect to have to replace it any day now.
Typical issues / wear items on these cars include: lower control arms (LCA), rear brakes, air con not working due to known issue with the clutch, PCV (makes a whistling noise if failed), engine mounts including torque mount, CV boots split. If the car has a sunroof, then check that the drain hoses are not leaking into the cabin.
Over the past 2.5 years that I've had to attend to the following items: battery (died suddenly), rear shocks (leaking), drivers side CV (made a clunk when engaging reverse), torque mount (broken) and rear brakes (wear). The rest of the work was either routine or preventive maintenance - just fluid and filter changes.
For that sort of money I'd recommend getting an independent Volvo workshop to asses the vehicle before buying. Although if you're buying from a dealer you do have the benefit of a warranty. Overall these are pretty well sorted cars with no major issues with the powertrain.
Viviana
Thanks to Philia Bear and Andrew for the extremely useful advice. I inspected the car today and drove it, and thanks to you guys, I was more informed than I would have been otherwise. It has a full service history from Melbourne Volvo and had the 5 year (60K) service done just last month. Brakes replaced front and back during that service. It looks to be in excellent condition and on the 25 minute drive it showed no signs of problems that I could detect. I was pleasantly surprised by the engine note. No whistling or shuddering, transmission worked smoothly and AC worked fine though I noticed the sound of the compressor kicking in and out more than I do in my VW Golf. I really enjoyed the engine, I put the pedal to the metal and we took off with no turbo lag I could detect, which is always a tiny issue with the VW. I got the price down $1500 and put a deposit on it. If the bank approves a little bit of finance, I'm taking it. It will be my car for the rest of my driving life, I think. I will explore the Polestar upgrade, as well as the third party options in that area, and have the windows tinted to keep the black car as cool as poss. Thanks again. I'm excited!! Vee
Philia_Bear
@Viviana
Sounds solid!
Where in australia are you located?
The louder compressor may be a sign that the clutch need adjustment
Its quite easy to do and there are even some hacks that make it near free
Smitty
I bought my 2011 C30T5 two years ago and have not looked back.
Polestar upgrade is worth it and made a big improvement to performance.
Have added on 20k in 2 year with no issues.
Just been service and tyres for me so far.
Good luck.
Viviana
I’m in Melbourne. Would you mind explaining your remark about the loud compressor and clutch adjustment? I like cars and am always interested but don’t know much about their mechanics .... very happy to learn if not to do.
Philia_Bear;120265 wrote@Viviana
Sounds solid!
Where in australia are you located?
The louder compressor may be a sign that the clutch need adjustment
Its quite easy to do and there are even some hacks that make it near free
Philia_Bear;120265 wrote@Viviana
Sounds solid!
Where in australia are you located?
The louder compressor may be a sign that the clutch need adjustment
Its quite easy to do and there are even some hacks that make it near free
Philia_Bear;120265 wrote@Viviana
Sounds solid!
Where in australia are you located?
The louder compressor may be a sign that the clutch need adjustment
Its quite easy to do and there are even some hacks that make it near free
Philia_Bear;120265 wrote@Viviana
Sounds solid!
Where in australia are you located?
The louder compressor may be a sign that the clutch need adjustment
Its quite easy to do and there are even some hacks that make it near free
Viviana
I just googled ac clutch and understand now. Would like to know what the solution is
Philia_Bear
Viviana;120304 wroteI just googled ac clutch and understand now. Would like to know what the solution is
Easy version
Volvo approved version
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downloads/Volvo-850-S70-V70-AC-Fix.pdf
You (or your mechanic) can easily check the gap in a few minutes using a feeler gauge and know the condition of the AC clutch
C30's are a little louder than say most anything japanese for the clutch engagement so might be just fine and its just loud to you
Viviana
So Volvo says I can run on 95 octane but 98 is preferable. The MTE people say only 98 if their tune is installed but a couple of tanks of 95 is fine as long as I don’t put heavy load in the engine. No info on fuel for Polestar upgrade? I actually think Polestar is enough for an old lady who likes a bit of performance in her cars, but the MTE is about $700 cheaper. Thoughts?
Philia_Bear
Elevate tune would be my recomendation
Run it on 98 all the time
Unless your driving serious km per year the extra cost does not add much to total yearly running costs
Viviana
Okay, 98 it is. The Elevate tune seems a bit cheaper (given the USD-AUD exchange rate) than MTE? The performance enhancements much the same? I could buy it from the States but would need help with installation. Might be added cost there. I’d be keen to read some reviews of all three tunes. Thanks, Philia-Bear.
c30c30
I have an Elevate (Autotech) "steg-3 98 octane" tune and I can recommend it. Actually it's the only thing Elevate sell that I would recommend. 98 Octane everyday of the week... preferably BP. The tune will completely transform the car. The throttle response will be a lot more aggressive. If you floor the accelerator you will spin the tyres! If you want to accelerate quickly after the tune you need to "squeeeeze" the accelerator.
The tune Elevate currently sells is the "full meal deal" stage 3. I believe they sell this one regardless of the modifications the vehicle has. This will make more power than Polestar. Possibly 20kw or more depending on mods. It's definitely more aggressive than the polestar tune, but also gives very good fuel economy on the highway.
Robert Hilton (
https://hiltontuning.com/) also offers tunes for the C30 and his are very highly regarded. But this is probably more work to install unless you have a working Vida/Dice (Volvo diagnostics).
Now if you're getting a tune then you almost certainly must get a stronger torque mount. The stock mount is very soft and mine only lasted a few thousand km after I got a tune. Ford have a uprated part "ford efocus mount part # CM5Z-6068-A that is a good upgrade without being too severely hard. Should be able to pick one up for around USD$50. Installation takes about 15 minutes.
And if you want to maximise the power of the tune, then you should consider getting a 3" turbo downpipe and improved intercooler (do88.se).
carnut222
I have the MTE tune on my 2008 C30 T5 R-design and love it! No issues with tune and still getting fantastic fuel economy with the 6-speed manual...average is just over 7 litres per 100 km in the 5 or so years of ownership. Hope you enjoy the car!
c30c30
Also worth mentioning that since you have the automatic, there is a factory torque limit in the first two gears. The Elevate tune does not remove the torque limit, which means that if you're cruising at say 60km/hr and the auto kicks down into second it will actually make LESS power in second gear than if it had only kicked down to third.
Hilton, Shark and others can remove the torque limiter. I believe the Polestar tune mitigates this behaviour by having very conservative boost targets so you'll be less likely to notice.
Viviana
Yes, Mark at VP Tuning tells me the MTE upgrade can remove the torque inhibit. I will probably go with this.
Viviana
@carnut222
carnut222;120367 wroteI have the MTE tune on my 2008 C30 T5 R-design and love it! No issues with tune and still getting fantastic fuel economy with the 6-speed manual...average is just over 7 litres per 100 km in the 5 or so years of ownership. Hope you enjoy the car!
I’m leaning heavily toward the MTE tune. I pick the car up next week, and plan to make friends with it for a couple of weeks then do the tune. I’m looking forward to it all very much.
c30c30
Viviana;120459 wroteYes, Mark at VP Tuning tells me the MTE upgrade can remove the torque inhibit. I will probably go with this.
And a transmission fluid change ;)
Viviana
I'll talk to Mark about doing transmission fluid change when he flashes the car, and also checking the AC clutch. If I have to take it all the way over to Moorabbin, I'd best do a whole slew of things at one time.
Viviana
Been driving the car now for a few days. Pretty happy. Not graceful over the bumps at low speed. Normal? Shocks need attention? Engine seems to idle a bit higher than I’m used to, about 800-1000 rpm, and feels a bit rough with some vibration noticeable through steering wheel. Normal?