morgan
What turbos do people have Laying around that will fit my 240 turbo with 1991 manifold?
Philia_Bear
You want used or rebuilt?
morgan
Depends on $$
Slowbrick
Auto or manual? Fuel system? Current spec? Planned future upgrades.
The answer to these will determine what you could/should use. For example if you have an auto and drive around town then something like a 15g on a ported 90+ will do you fine as it spools fast and makes decent power.
morgan
Manual , rebuilt oil squirter 153m rods 3 inch turbo back exhaust , currently rebuilt 13 Garrett , running 15psi , picks up well but want more go , still lh2.2
morgan
Once turbo and manifold are in I think I will be done with mods , maybe injectors but depends on how that goes with club plates
Slowbrick
Ok cool. Sounds like you have the hardware. Any plans to change from LH2.2 in the future? LH2.2 limits you to about 250hp as does the M46 if that is what you have. With that being said, a 16t or 18t would be a nice upgrade if looking to stick with Volvo stuff. If your manifold has been milled for a T3 flange then a T3/T4 hybrid could be a good, cheapish way to go that gives you good flexibility and good power.
Anthony
With a Garrett turbo,15psi boost, 3" pipe your already set up with good basic infastructure.
Progress your development to find out whats holding it back - (engine management system likely LH2.2 system), often the intercooler flow, injectors etc.
That said vehicle weight is always a factor.
An air/fuel ratio meter/blinking lights and a wide band O2 sensor is a definite requirement, if not already fitted, as running lean at 15psi boost (1 atmosphere or 1 Bar) is a no-no, and could be holding it back.
Aftermarket engine management would deliver huge benefits in your case.
Ex850R
+1for a better intercooler and silicone piping.
Vee_Que
Even a larger housing on the t3 would gain power, this would of course need the manifold to be milled flat and while there ported out.
I offer these services for a reasonable cost.
Alternatively, porting the manifold and putting on an td04hl 18t as linked before from kinguwara would be a good option.
An upgrade in injectors to something about 360cc would allow for the extra boost. And contrary to slow brick and Anthony, lh 2.2 will do the job fine, it isn't going to be like a brand new car, but going to an aftermarket ecu isn't an option without going on "m" plates
My own 740t with a big rod b230ft ported 90+ 16t and 3" exhaust with an auto makes 140rwkws and runs 16psi of boost in stock injectors and doesn't run lean at that boost either. Another car I work on with a t3/4 (which will not fit well in your engine bay which has been discussed before) runs stock injectors with a rising rate fuel regulator, not at my preference, but as a result doesn't run lean until 22psi. And gets. 11l/100km It would be better with bigger injectors about 360cc, as 440s were too big overall.
I still have my all alloy, drop in 65mm thick intercoolers available. Which is the only option available as the club permit rules do not allow changes to the piping in order to fit a generic eBay intercooler that will never fit quite right.
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/4679/240-740-narrow-radiator-940-turbo-drop-in-intercooler-run/p1
morgan
Vee_Que
You can, but the gain over the t3 is not huge, especially without potting. The 18t with the bigger exhaust housing would be worthwhile.
Alternatively you can source a t3/4 turbo with a .63 a/r rear housing, and take your current turbo or a spare to a turbo shop, they can machine the stock compressor housing to fit the bigger wheel and it will make more power for the same boost.
Berry's will have a 16t and maybe even an 18t available, but if buying used, I definitely recommend getting them rebuilt.
A wideband like an AEM is recommended still.
Ex850R
Get a worn old 16t from BMG or Voldat and Alex can kit it out when doing your manifold? Cheaper than an unknown ebay one.
Vee_Que
The kingiwara ones are actually pretty good, I need to send the td04 series turbos out to be balanced when I rebuild them myself as the design of them needs the shaft balanced when one of the seals is replaced.
Samman88
Damn, for that money I'd sell you the 18T I've got!
Slowbrick
I dont understand the obsession with holding onto LH2.2. For the time and money you spend dicking around with hardware you could throw in a nice ECU, tune it and make good power. I've lived with LH2.2 and its ok but its limited, very limited. If you are trying to do it while keeping to the plates guidelines then you are wasting your time changing turbos. 140kws isnt really anything to be boasting about and isnt really an advertisement for the capability of LH2.2 especially at 16psi.
LH2.2 wasn't used for very long and there is a reason for that. LH2.4 lasted much longer than 2.2. If you want good power then spend the time and money putting in a good ECU that will grow with you. Or stick with LH2.2, make 200hp and boast about it.
Your turbo isnt the problem here, LH2.2 is.
morgan
Who is talking about boasting ???
Vee_Que
But wait, did you ever dyno your car Ryan? Your obsession against lh 2.2 is unfair. Keep in mind an auto loses 10-20kws, and that my wagon is a daily, it tows, does a decent quarter mile time etc. And you missed a major point
aftermarket ecus are not legal without engineering, especially on a club registered car if you can get it engineered in Victoria with a programmable ecu. So the cost of an ecu plus installation plus an engineering certificate if you can get one. Makes the cost quite high.
So working within the confines of what he has is what needs to happen. With an eye to upgrading the ecu when possible. Lh 2.4 conversion is not worth it vs an ecu as well. There's the machining of a flywheel for the sensor etc that is needed too.
Slowbrick
I didn't ever need to dyno my car. It was a +T running LH2.2. I could never get it to safely run more than 12psi and therefore it was the limit of my setup. Sure it was quick and I was satisfied but if I was chasing more power like Morgan is then LH2.2 just does NOT cut it. Its a fuel system from 1986.
I threw hardware at it like everyone else does. KG2T cam, big injectors, 3 inch AFM, 3 inch exhaust but at the end of the day it was all still being controlled by a fuel system witch as much computational power as my TV remote. LH2.2 just doesnt keep up. Get in any LH2.2 car, roll it up to about 3.5k and hit the boost hard and you will see or hear your AFM lean out for about a second and then catch up. It just isnt quick enough. Its maps just arent designed for modification.
To me my car was fast. Was quicker than any 5 litre commode I came across. Quicker than an M3 I ran at a meet once, as fast as an XR5 I gave a run one night in Campbelltown. To me it was fine but it wasn't "right". I had the hardware to do so much more but it was limited by LH2.2.
Really what it comes down to is "are you happy with what you have?". If you are chasing good power with LH2.2 then you are wasting money by not being efficient. I have no doubt that my same setup with Megasquirt or Haltech could probably push a reliable 350hp and not really break a sweat.
This isnt a competition of making power and I understand there are different perspectives on the subject. I used to be in camp LH2.2 and it was "fine" and sometimes even "good" in my eyes. Upon reflection I wasted time and money pouring effort into something that was always going to be "average" at best.
So back to the original questions: Sure you can upgrade the turbo and it might even net you a power increase. If you absolutely cannot change the ECU then that is fine too. Focus on getting your intake temps as low as possible and your flow as high as possible. Heat is LH2.2's biggest enemy as it just cant deal with it. Get a good intercooler, possibly fit meth injection and if you feel like it throw on some intake spacers.
Then at that point you might be making 200whp on 16-20psi of boost. Then you need to look into replacing your gearbox because it will not last. Volvo M boxes never last especially the M46 which will either explode in third or shred the cone clutch.
Anthony
If one advertises with 4 coil packs in the engine bay its pretty obvious something isn't standard.
If an ECU is inside the car underneath some carpet who would ever know its standard or modified, and if one went further and removed the Motec/Haltech whatever tech sticker and placed it deep inside,,,,, easy stealth.
Wiring would be inside Volvo sheath so no givaways their either.