140 Air Conditioning Options

bigal

Having thoughts of one day having A/C in the 145. Few questions to start with before we dig deep..

A:
Am I completely mad to even consider this? It is 2:15am and the Endone is keeping me pain free from this Sciatica... and a little high :-) It looks a bit too complex for me.

B:
Would it be easier to find a 2nd hand system for a 140 and fit it in or choose one of these modern under dash systems for classic cars?

C:
Has anyone ever put AC into an old Volvo that didn't have it from factory?

Thanks, Al.

Major Ledfoot

Yeah, I'm hit with a bit of insomnia too. :)

A:

No. If you're keeping the car and especially if you're driving it in hot weather, it's a good thing to have. Hell, a/c is also handy to have in cold and wet weather too, for keeping the windows unfogged.

B:
You could try finding a system from a 140, but you'd be far better off finding a system from a late model 240. The heater box unit is pretty much identical from 1973 through to 1993. You'd be better off also with a late model compressor. However, that may mean fabricating a bracket to fit the B20.

C:
Not yet, but it's firmly on my agenda for Xoe and Chloe. I've already purchased a bunch of bits from @Angus242164 and @davem to make it happen.

bigal

Haha can't believe I got a response so early in the morning.

Very good point.. I plan on never selling so might as well have comfort. As I like things original I think I will go down the volvo AC parts route using modern where I can. Thanks.

But gees where to begin! I need diagrams and a parts list guide I guess.

I'm also guessing it's a complete and utter dash removal job?

Well time to try and sleep I guess. Hope you manage some shut eye too!

paul0075

The radiator and AC place who has done work for my 144 said that there's not many aftermarket options left these days as most cars come with AC now. They suggested getting a second hand system, fitting it yourself to save on the massive labour costs then taking it in and then getting the whole thing serviced and gassed.

paul0075

The only thing with using the 240 heater box is there is a hole on the transmission tunnel of 240s for the AC drain pipe to go through. Not sure if there's such a hole in a 140

1971_144GL

I have fitted it to the 142, just the under bonnet stuff to do. Pretty easy really, but a full day at least. I do have probably enough parts to make up two more original systems for 140. I am going for a screw compressor from a 240 myself, so some cusom hoses, held the project up.

paul0075

Sounds good. How did you go with drainage pipe?

Major Ledfoot

paul0075;90598 wroteThe only thing with using the 240 heater box is there is a hole on the transmission tunnel of 240s for the AC drain pipe to go through. Not sure if there's such a hole in a 140

Yep, they're already there, in 73+ models. They are dual purpose, since they're also used to drain water that made its way into the heater box air intake.

paul0075

Sweet. Good to know. i have an 85 box to go in mine

Ex850R

Use 850 compressor?

bigal

Great info! Sounds like I'm going to be in good comany when I tackle this one.

I like the sound of fitting myself (the bulk of the work) then take it to a pro for the gas and test.

tbro

One BIg hint, when you replace the receiver dryer, get one with the low pressure switch and wire it up to the compressor, then if you get a leak it will turn off and save the compressor from seizing up due to lack of lub.

bigal

I'll add that to the list!

There's always the thermador option..

Major Ledfoot

1971_144GL;90602 wroteI have fitted it to the 142, just the under bonnet stuff to do. Pretty easy really, but a full day at least. I do have probably enough parts to make up two more original systems for 140. I am going for a screw compressor from a 240 myself, so some cusom hoses, held the project up.

BTW did I ever thank you for emailing me the dealer instruction sheets for it? If not, thank you! :)

Major Ledfoot

tbro;90629 wroteOne BIg hint, when you replace the receiver dryer, get one with the low pressure switch and wire it up to the compressor, then if you get a leak it will turn off and save the compressor from seizing up due to lack of lub.

Thanks for this - this happened in The Noodle ages ago, so it's great tip.

Angus242164

My two cents:

If the car is for weekend/occasional use only, my opinion is that AC probably isn't worth the effort of obtaining, installing and maintaining. I've removed it from my 164, and won't be adding it to my Kingswood. My Landcruiser lost it's gas and I may remove that system too.

That said, if you think you'll use it often enough to make it worthwhile, it's certainly do-able. Some thoughts:

240 HVAC unit is a direct fit on '73-'74 models, I fitted one to my 164. The hole for the condensate drain tube is in a different spot relative to a 240, as the trans tunnels are a different shape between 100 and 200 series, but by reusing the hose from the 164 everything was a direct fit.

I have seen pics of a bracket to fit a Sanden type late 240/740/940 compressor to a B20, and I think it was an original Volvo part, no idea how rare they are though.

It should be possible to essentially use a complete 240 system, with custom hoses to link everything together. Mounting a 240 condenser shouldn't be difficult.

It would be good to have new hoses made up, as the hoses on older AC systems actually have a degree of porosity, and rely on the oil circulating through the system to coat the inside of the hoses and fill the pores in the surface of the hoses. If the AC doesn't get used for a while, eg: over winter or if the car is in storage, the oil settles and the system starts to lose gas. For this reason older systems should be used for a few minutes weekly, regardless of the weather.

This doesn't seem to be anywhere near as much of a problem on newer cars, I suspect the materials used in the hoses have evolved since the '70's/'80's, along with the oil.

The fittings from the 240 hoses can probably be reused with new crimp sleeves.

If fitting AC, definitely fit a pusher fan to the condenser, with power fed from a relay triggered by the AC clutch wire. On hot days with the AC running at idle for more than a few minutes, the car's fan doesn't move much air and the condenser temp shoots right up on these systems and the pressure becomes excessive, causing the pressure relief valve to vent gas to atmosphere. The fan keeps the temps in check in this situation.

Having the compressor and fan come on at once places a big sudden load on the engine, and the idle will drop. Early '80's 240's had a solenoid valve on the firewall which was fed power from the compressor clutch wire, which bled a small amount of air past the throttle plate to compensate for the load.

It might be worth using a delay relay for the pusher fan, so it comes on 5 or 10 seconds after the compressor, to stagger the load on the engine a bit.

bigal

Good points.

I best see how much I actually do drive it. Perhaps I can just survive the hotter tasmanian weather (dec to feb only) by not parking it in the sun and just opening the window. After all it does require an elbow out the window to complete the look.

Hmm decisions!

DCW242

I have an AC compressor bracket to fit a later type compressor to a B20, it might be worth finding out what would be involved in making some copies.