RSB - 244 K-Jet Turbo Daily Driver

edited January 29 in RWD
OK OK I know I know.Yes theres plenty of 240 threads out there already and yes most of them are repetetive. This one is probably no different or more boring then the others...

But I do what I want.

Bought the car in March 2016.

$1500, 1982, 133xxxkm, M46, 4 Months Rego, RWC supplied.
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The body is rust free, but paint is shithouse.

Work done so far in order:
  • Pulled the interior out and cleaned the water passages in the [sills]?
  • New head unit/front speakers
  • Oil/Oil filter changes
  • Polish and wax
  • Brake pressure mysteriously vanished while driving but still got it home. Checked reservoir, completely empty. Looked for line leaks or cylinder fail but found nothing. Sent it to the mechanic and ended up being one of the gromets that holds the reservoir. Something I completely overlooked. ~$90
  • Air filter
  • Coolant flush.
  • Other small maintenance tasks I've forgotten
  • New wheels. Found Multi-X wheels on a 740 Peer was using for parts. $200 including tyres with good tread. Servicable condition, but bad appearance. Photo:AdfbEZdh.jpg
    Cleaned them up and put them on to discover 80+ km they were really unbalanced. Took them off and decided to refinish them. Stripped at aluminium tank super. $40/wheel. Got them back, sanded of most of the light gutter rash. Spray can job. Primed + gold with bare aluminium lip and face. Turned out really good, photo:aq7aLHjh.jpg

As it sits now:HhsCDIwh.jpg
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Future plans:
  • Next on my list is to repaint bonnet.
  • Needs more low.
  • Motor/performance wise: will remain basically stock. I want to keep it reliable and cheap for my DD.
  • The list goes on, but can't remember right now
TerryAbgpzfm142carnut222Ghettobirdpieboyfresh
«134

Comments

  • Wheels come up nice.
    Just for future reference, if you ever way to do this again. Get them hydroblasted. It wont damage the surface and leaves them ultra clean.

    Like these here

    pB4TQuKh.jpg
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    Saw this one at the SSVC meeting last month.

    great looking car - keep up the good work.
    ________________________________________________
    Current: 1966 120 wagon, 1970 162, 1973 164E + supercharger, 1998 C70 T5 AWD Coupe, 2001 C70 LPT Convertible, 2008 XC70 D5 LE
    Previous: 1979 242GT, 1980 262C, 1984 265GLE, 1985 740T, 1996 850R, 1996 850AWD .... among others
  • A_Volvo_DriverScott (@A_Volvo_Driver) Victoria, The Revenue State
    There can never be enough 240 build threads. Your car looks great, I look forward to seeing more progress.
    1985 240 Wagon Henrik aka "Hank" - build thread in progress
    1984 240 GLE Sedan "The Moose"
    1992 240 GL Wagon "The TURD"
    1997 Fairlane by Tickford "The Tickford"

    Tarneit? Where is that?
  • edited May 2017
    Thanks Guys.
  • Time to revive

    I haven't done anything to the car that would be especially interesting or 'new' to this forum. Thus I saw no point in keeping the thread updated. However the stage I am up to now might be attracting to some, and I'm fairly sure nothing of the like has been documented here. So you may appreciate reading the following. Before I continue with this, I will bring you up to date of what has happened since Oct 2016.

    The car has been chugging along nicely. My plans for it have changed from keeping it stock and reliable to on the road to performance, maybe even competition. I have started studying engineering and I suppose I have taken a liking to the performance and improving side of things a lot more. Or a better way of saying it is I am very interested in racing and motorsport, and I think my car will partly reflect this. I hope to occasionally take this to a track, even more so a hill climb track that is 20 mins away from me.

    In Aug 2017 I contacted @AshDVS regarding lower/stiffer springs and shocks. He recommended me a bunch of options and I decided on DVS front/King rear springs and B6 front/sachs rear struts. I installed them mostly myself and as you may already know - holy moly, what a difference.

    In Nov 2017 I set out to replace all suspension bushings and of course consulted Ash. I ended up with everything urethane except for large lower control arm and front trailing arm bushes, both of which oem replacements. Again, installed everything myself relatively problem free.

    Other miscellaneous happenings over the past year and a bit include buying professionally reupholstered and re-foamed seats from a guy in the GC for an absolute steal @ $150. Still, I need something with more support but they beat 30 year old seats. New steering wheel and hub. Parcel shelf speakers and moved Modern stereo player to glove box and put original back in to suit the dash/centre console.

    My attempt at expert pics:
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    That's basically bringing you up to date with the car as it is now. There are still things that need tidying up/replacing and I planned to complete it all over the Christmas break but... I'll get to that.
    • Engine + bay needs to be cleaned
    • Wiring in engine bay needs to be replaced because of biodegradable wiring. I want to replace all of it too, not just the badly affected areas
    • Pilot bearing needs to be replaced - it rattles almost always. I would also like to visually inspect the clutch/flywheel's condition too

    I thought I might as well pull the engine to do everything, however due to wanting performance I thought I'd investigate a turbo motor swap and kill two birds with one stone. Hoped to have this completed before uni starts. I ended up deciding LH2.4 was the way to go and researched and researched and researched. I got to the point where I was ready to start collecting parts when I realised I may be jumping the gun here because I haven't even bothered to learn what is already in the car - K-Jet. So I set out to learn about K-Jet and realised it's a really neat system. Well, the rest is history:

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    I put up a thread on turbobricks regarding a few Q's I had on T K-Jet. My queries were answered and I was also contacted by a guy from Greece by the name of Aris who was willing to sell all of his gear from his B21ET.

    Those of you who don't know, K-Jet Turbo came in two varieties on Volvo's. B21FT and B21ET for America and Europe respectively. Both motors use exactly the same blocks - same compression. The FT uses K-Jet lambda or KE-Jet. Basically this just means it uses an oxygen sensor in the exhaust and a frequency valve inline with the WUR and trims control pressure accordingly. The ET is just K-Jet or K Basic. Purely mechanical operation, no input from electrical sensors. This is the system I wanted.

    Eventually everything came to my door. This includes:
    • Turbo manifold
    • Turbo distributor
    • Airbox + snorkel
    • 2x Turbo WUR
    • Turbo Ignition distributor
    • Ignition Computer - same p/n as in my car now
    • Assorted fuel lines
    • + other spares

    The next thing I have acquired: the motor.
    So as said before, K-Jet Turbo came on a B21. I'm not after originality so I decided I wanted b230. Called all of the wreckers up here in Brisbane but no one had any at the time. I called @iceton1975 at Berry Motor Group and in the end got a B230FK motor sent up. Arrived today. It has a 530 head on it stock but being from an EFI car there are no K-Jet injector holes. So I ordered a 405 head as well - here's where I messed up. Mark said it was from a B23ET and I thought 'cool, it will have turbo exhaust valves then' completely forgetting that head is also from an EFI car. That head will go on the shelf in case I want it in the future. Alas, I got the motor I wanted anyway.

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    This is basically everything I have so far. I will write up my shopping list for everyone to have a geeze in the coming days.
    I have run out of time to get this in the car before Uni so I will draw up a more realistic plan. I will say now I want to get this running by September so I can bring it down to the Canberra show.

    Tomorrow I will clean up the block and have a look at the bores etc and see where I stand in terms of that area.
    TerryAbgpzfm142pauljlozVee_Quejamesincegadsnugget_940240Raebirdpieboyfresh
  • Awesome collection of parts and an ambitious project. Are you planning to add an intercooler?

    Really like what you've done with the Multi-X wheels, they remind me of the Cheviot Quattros I had on my original 144 years ago.

    Looking forward to seeing updates on your progress if you have time.
    1LQhVAhm.png
    71 1800E |73 144 |74 142 |74 145 |79 242GT |88 780 |93 945T |93 945|2010 S80 V8
    Vee_Que
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Looking forward to this
  • Looking forward to this.

    If you need your WUR or fuel distributor attended to in anyway there is a great guy here locally at Loganholme who does excellent work who we have used.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    edited January 30
    Interesting, mostly as people throw K jet away as soon as you go past stock power. I hope you plan to use an intercooler as they added 20hp iirc on these cars.

    Also normal to have a 530 on a b230fk, will you be pulling the motor down far? It doesn't seem to have a "k" on the side of the block either, the later motors all have it on there. make sure it is a rear thrust motor with the 13mm rods, the centre thrust with 9mm is not worth the effort that you are going to. I find na blocks to have less wear than turbo motors and the internals are the same on lager motors that I've pulled down other than the dish in the pistons.

    You can drill the heads for K jet holes, using a 531 head is the best bet for flow on intake side since you need to do drilling, there is always a few for sale for not that much. Although with the extra capacity you may have fun anyway having enough fuel. Combined also with the massive compression difference on the b21et at around. 7.5:1 and the b230fk at 8.9:1 a 531 will bring that down further by about 0.3 points due to the bigger combustion chamber. So this will definitely be interesting given these factors!


    You can use the later 90+ manifold, I hope you didn't go out of your way to buy an early manifold with your parts as they are all the same with different turbos fitted over time.

    Also, fcpeuro I find is the easiest/cheapest source for all the gaskets, rings etc needed for a rebuild. Elring being oem. And don't be tempted to put a thicker head gasket in, it will make the chances of detonation increase in spite of the old school thinking that decreasing compression that way is good.
    pieboyfresh
  • edited January 31
    Thanks guys. Any kind of input, suggestions, questions or criticism's you may have for me I want to hear it, it is greatly appreciated.

    Yes I am planning to run an intercooler.

    I have already contacted Colin with some Q's. I plan to get him to rebuild the distributor and I will rebuild the WUR myself.

    I took this path because I like K-Jet. There are no pro's and plenty of con's going this way but I'm happy to explore this path. I have researched for uncountable hours, days, and months and I have a pretty good idea of what I may encounter. Though that does not mean I am an expert. I suppose I should let you guys know I am a complete amateur, and my practical experience on this stuff extends as far as this thread goes.

    I will write out my thoughts and knowledge as I go along through this thread. E.g. When I get to the fuel side of things I will talk about ideas I have for available power and what I have read other people do. Maybe like a central information hub that I have gathered from various sources.

    I will confirm what motor it is below and include answers to your questions there.

    I prefer to find a K-Jet head as is and not worry about drilling any holes and possibly stuff up. A 405 head is the preference, but depending on availability I may have to compromise.

    I bought a 90+ manifold 6 months ago by chance someone offering it to me. However it is cracked. I don't know how I missed this because I inspected it thoroughly when I bought it and it was crack free. PO also machined down the flange, but it still needs to be ported afaik. What do you recommend I do here? I can see two cracks - one faint and one big enough to be seen from both sides. I can provide pics if that would help you decide.

    I did notice FCP was quite cheaper than scandix. Will order from them when the time comes.


    Motor - I was planning to have a fairly good block to just run it with new seals and gaskets. In the future, if needed I will rebuild a motor then. What do you think?

    I cleaned up the block today and pulled the pan and head.

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    95 Block, but I can't see any letters cast. 13mm rods, oil squirters.

    Mark said it had 220k on it when pulled. The ridge in the bores does catch my nail, but not big enough to cut myself. Cross hatching looks ok.
    bgpzfm142
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    I understand that for more fuel you can use a Mercedes V8 pump, of course graphed to suit. Ignition, you can actually use an lh 2.2 ignition unit so you have a turbo ecu. Or go a programable 123 ignition distributor unit. Either would help with your issue on the extra air and fuel needed that kjet may not provide. That and the stock b21et ignition ecu I'd imagine is very aggressive to compensate for the low compression it ran.

    Manifold, any pics? Cracking can be fixed, or may be able to be left once ported.
  • ho62ZSGh.jpg

    Ok three cracks
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    jamesincbgpzfm142
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    I would, personally, in the interest of only doing things once, just get overbore pistons and have the engine overbored to match. Maybe linish the crank if needed.
    Mackay78pieboyfresh
  • I bought a 90+ manifold 6 months ago by chance someone offering it to me. However it is cracked.

    Saw your photos... whoa, boy; know that feeling. :( My 940T just developed the same un-amusing extra openings. Apparently, they all crack eventually. Even the brand spanking new ones, of which Mother Volvo (or www.gcp.se rather) still has a few left, at about $500 AUD plus shipping each. They have the EGR version of the 90+, which has a hole near #4 and not just the blank lump that yours has. But they work just as well with a bung plug as the non-EGR ones.

    Have you made any queries about getting the cracks repaired?
  • My 940 came with them :) somewhat superficial fortunately
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    The one on my wagon with 100k use by me while ported. Has no exhaust leaks external from the cracks that have appeared, it can be cast iron welded though.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    I would, personally, in the interest of only doing things once, just get overbore pistons and have the engine overbored to match. Maybe linish the crank if needed.

    If they measure up to spec. It's literally a waste of time, a quick hone and new rings are all that is needed. Cross hatching means no wear on the bore as a lazy check. New pistons, boring and balancing etc adds another $1000 to the engine build...
  • I still stand by myself saying there were no cracks when I bought it. That big crack is bigger than Bill Shorten's forehead, there's no way I could have simply missed it. I noticed it about a month ago when I was trying to remove the studs using the two nut method. I undid every one of them except the last one which has the two nuts in the photo. I tried soaking it and using some heat but it wont budge. So much so one of those nuts is now crossed threaded and stuck on there. Who could I go to that can do such repairs to crack/s?

    The motor will be buttoned back up and set aside for now. If I do a major tear down and rebuild it will set me way back in terms of cost and getting it ready for Canberra. I have more time than money so I don't mind doing some things twice. But I'll leave this subject for another day.
    Vee_Quepieboyfresh
  • edited October 30
    This will be periodically updated/added to.

    Master list (bold is what I have):
    • B230
    • Flat flywheel + clutch kit
    • M46
    • Lower Bell housing Brackets
    • 405 Head
    • A Cam
    • N/A K-Jet Intake Manifold + Support brace
    • Upper Engine Mount Brackets
    • 90+ Manifold
    • Turbo + Oil + Cooling lines
    • Turbo Radiator Hoses
    • Boost controller
    • Intercooler + piping + brackets
    • 240 Intermediate shaft
    • Dipstick tube replacement
    • Seals/Gaskets/Hardware/Breather Box/Timing belt kit/Accessory belts/Engine + Transmission mounts/Starter Motor/Thermostat/Oil Pump/Bearings/Piston Rings/Accessory Bushings/
    • Oil cooler + lines + sandwich plate
    • Alternator + Bracket
    • Power steering pump (with integrated resiviour) + bracket (non-ac?)
    • Vacuum/Pressure hoses
    • Airbox
    • Fuel dist.
    • WUR
    • Fuel filter
    • Fuel Lines (Fuel filter to dist., dist. to return line, injector lines, WUR lines)
    • Fuel line fittings
    • Injectors
    • Turbo Ign. dist.
    • Ign. ecu
    • Spark plug wires
    • Spark plugs
    • Ign. Coil
    • Turbo coolant overflow tank
    • Wide band
    • Boost gauge



    Miscellaneous:
    • Wiring
    • K-Jet pressure test kit

    Possible Work Needed:
    • Head Rebuild
    • K-Jet Rebuild
    • Exhaust Fab
    • Turbo Rebuild
    • Block Work
    • Exhaust Manifold Work
    Vee_Quepieboyfresh
  • Piecing a car together sucks!
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