1983 240 6.0L LS2 V8 conversion

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Comments

  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited April 2018
    Had some great progress over the last weeks... which resulted in this.. the diff is now complete and installed. Only thing left to work out is the hand brake.

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  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Like the black wheels
  • Like the black wheels

    Thanks. Me too! Trying to avoid sporty and shiny, just want base model sedan look.
  • WHAT SIZE ARE THEY? WHAT SIZE RUBBER?
    BY THE WAY REALLY WELL ORGANISED BUILD, CONGRATS!
  • Thanks Rob, these are 17x7.5 Ford Territory spare wheels with 235/45/R17 tyres. Had to roll the guards to make these fit, but not too much as the car will retain good ground clearance. The 8.8 gives you 38mm track increase which means garden variety +35 to +40 wheels bolt on.
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited April 2018
    Stock guards:

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    Rolled guards:

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    I could go further by cutting the lip in half and then rolling, but I prefer to keep double-plated metal intact
  • Awesome build. Love your work
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited April 2018
    Thanks Peter, it's coming along for sure.

    Finished up the headers. This was probably one of the most time consuming jobs so far. Started with a set of Pacemaker PH5377 headers suit VE/VF SS Commodore which are a nice 'all-rounder' header with 1 3/4 primaries and Tri-Y (3 collectors) design.

    PH5377.jpg

    To make the passenger side fit we needed to cut the main flange off and re-weld it to run the pipes angled inward toward the block. Otherwise they foul the chassis rail and brake distribution block. Also cut the exit pipe flange off and rotated it 90deg for more cleaerance. That makes the passenger side relatively straight forward. The drivers side is much more serious as it runs directly into steering shaft and chassis rail.

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    The big challenge in making the drivers side is snaking the header pipes around the steering shaft and then the starter motor. Was able to get about 15mm clearance to the shaft which is pretty good. Can still remove and refit the starter with the header installed, but need to remove the starter in order to fit the header.
  • You make that look easy to us mortals. Very nice.
    Is that an early steering shaft or have you made one with out the resin section.
  • Thanks Rob, it was a whole lot of cutting, welding, grinding, test-fitting and repeat! Easy 25+ hours and that was with two of us much of the time. God knows how exhaust shop guys do this all the time.. No wonder they always seem like they're about to snap!

    That steering shaft was just a dummy that could quickly be removed and installed. I'll need to buy or make a 3/4-48 spline shaft solid/hollow shaft to match the current uni's or try to fit an assembly from another Volvo.
  • early 240s had a straight shaft with no collapsible section, 75 76 ish
  • Aren't exhausts fun. Bending over guards. Testing. Cutting. Fitting. Removing. Tacking. More cutting. Swearing. Doing it all again. Ahh the memories.
    Outcomes looks similarIMG_0379.JPG
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  • haha very nice... similar outcome, similar process!
  • The steering shaft with the rubber collapsible bit can be installed upside down. One way or the other it may give you more room. The older 70s type shaft is skinny but I think it requires a bit of work to fit it to the rack pinion.

    Good work with the manifolds, most people don't understand the amount of time and effort that goes into those things. Then they offer u 40 bucks for them lol
  • From memory, the various 200 and 700 Series Volvos have the same splined steering uni's but they vary in length. By mixing and matching these with the steering shaft (collapsable) you can get plenty of adjustability to the shafts position and overall length.

    The other trick, if more space is required is to move the columns under dash "u" bracket to the left and this angles the engine bay end away from the motor a bit more.
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited April 2018
    Thanks for the suggestions on the steering shaft guys, I appreciate it. Pretty sure we have a solution now by using another a combination of Volvo and Range Rover parts!

    Getting very close to finishing the mockup stage of the build now. My friend Stuart spent a good few hours coming up with a solution for the remote shifter assembly. As you can see, the stock setup features a cast aluminum bracket and steel linkage assembly going into the box: This is how GM do it, but Ford do it similarly.... either way the shifter is too far back here:

    tans_original_shifter.jpg

    Here is the stock linkage and shifter. The stock shifter can be re-used, but the linkage needs to be heavily shortened and a new housing made.

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    Now heavily shortened, and adjustable:

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    Time to machine some alloy...

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    Now sitting in situ:

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    Very custom shortened bracket assembly (unfinished/painted). It uses the stock mounting tabs on the rear extension housing of the gearbox and clamps onto a casting boss on the back of the trans for further support and rigidity. It's a combination of mild steel and machined 2011 alloy billet with some machined Delrin Polyoxymethylene bushes, since the rubber GM ones fell to pieces:

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    Sits very nice in the car. These TR6060 transmissions are perfect for the Volvo 240 in that the shifter can be moved to wherever you need it to be. Using a VT-VZ T56 transmission would have put the shifter too far back

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    20160809_134821.jpgfree picture upload
  • I'm going to guess the large steelie but I'd be interested in hearing the weights.

    @GingerNinja 17x7.5" steelies are 24.7kg a corner including 235/45/17
  • Really nice solution to the location problem. Does this also give you a short/quick shift result or is the throw already fairly tight.

    Also interested in what if any work has been done to the tunnel to fit the motor/bellhousing/box in.
  • You continue to Impress! Love the original gear knob.
  • Really nice solution to the location problem. Does this also give you a short/quick shift result or is the throw already fairly tight.

    Also interested in what if any work has been done to the tunnel to fit the motor/bellhousing/box in.

    It does quicken up the shift in that the linkages are shorter, more taunt and now has more firm bushes. It's a very direct and firm click, click into each gear.

    I'll take some pics of the tunnel, but there is a fair amount of tunnel massaging required to make this work, both at the tunnel opening and throughout the tunnel itself to clear the gearbox housing. I also needed to cut a single part of the double skin further down the tunnel and a small portion of the double skinned area just behind the shifter which is to clear the output flange/adapter/tail shaft. It's only a relatively small area, but it's tight toward the rear of the tunnel using this box. Will weld some new material in there with a slightly different shape to clear the tailshaft.
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