1983 240 6.0L LS2 V8 conversion

alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
edited September 2016 in RWD
This is a build I have been planning for a few months now. Bought the car from WA to it's new home in Melbourne. Thanks to those that helped out in diagnosing some issues with the B23 engine. I replaced the cam belt, tensioner, cam seal and repaired some ignition wiring and it runs like a champ. I actually really like the way the car drives completely stock!

Car has just under 91,000km's on the Odometer and had very little use from the previous owner. Just short trips to the local shops and the occasional run into the countryside. Body and paint on the car is all original and great condition. Some little interior parts will need attention, but overall it's nice and not messed with.

The engine, transmission, differential and entire driveline will be removed along with all of the original suspension, brakes and fuel delivery system.

- Replacement engine is out of 2009 VE Commodore SS V with 100k on the clock. It's a 6 Litre L98 Gen IV.
- Transmission is a TR6060 6 speed manual also out of the same VE SS.
- Rear Axle is a cut and shut Ford Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears.

Goal for this car is a usable, registered, engineered vehicle with good power, handling and brakes. Not looking for a race car here in either looks or handling... It must retain it's utilitarian plain Jane looks and reasonable ride quality!

A lot more details to come.

Below is a video I put together to remember the car running in stock form and to motivate me to ensure I finish the build!

[video=1920,1080]
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Comments

  • Going to leave the L98 stock or mod it as well?
    I think you need to add i was in an s80 with three wheels getting pulled backwards and was told to "hold on shit is about to get real".
  • What are the plans on the brake upgrades and ems?
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    What a nice 240!
    Perfect for a swap , please give us comprehensive updates.
    cancer sucks
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited June 2016
    Thanks Snoopy. PB, I'm doing the 740 Turbo front rotor with RX-7 calipers on the front and stock Ford Explorer disc brake setup on the rear. Ends up being same size rotors front and rear, but vented on the front.

    PCM is a VE E38 setup to ignore inputs/outputs not used in this application. Using a VZ 6.0 engine harness so I can mount the PCM under the dash as opposed to in the engine bay like a VE. Engine will remain stock.
  • For the same price or less i would advise you to get a 302mm conversion kit from a p2 or a 336mm kit from a xc90 or a 324mm kit from an xc60
    All bolt on with adapters just like the rx7 kit does
  • I looked at some of those and while I might well go bigger down the track, I'm happy to run what I have for the moment. It's light weight, low cost, proven, has an enormous range of pads and can be engineered easily. Same cannot be said for some of the more exotic combinations out there when you start discussing details with an engineer.
  • If nsw all of the above have already been engineered at least once which means they are easily signed off under the new legislation
  • I'll come up with my own solution if and when there is a need for it.
  • AshDVSAsh (@AshDVS) - Geelong, VIC
    Looking forward to your updates!
    Likes good coffee & motorsport. Builds stuff. Occasionally races stuff.
    f: https://www.facebook.com/DvsPerformanceParts
    twitter & instagram: ashd61 | w: http://www.dvs.net.au
  • For the L98/TR6060 combo, any idea on the weight of it? I'm interested to know if its not lighter than the stock B23/BW combo which weigh over a quarter of a metric ton on their own
  • Numbers I had were 210kg for the B23/BW vs. 280kg for the L98/TR
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited June 2016
    Looking forward to your updates!

    Thanks Ash! Will be running and out the door in no time (sarcasm lol)
  • Awesome can't wait. I think the Volvo engine trans combo is heavier than that?
  • I think the Volvo engine trans combo is heavier than that?

    May well be... that does seem light to me.
  • Reckon you'll need to do much tunnel work to get the TR6060 in there? You might be able to use the centre shift position on the gearbox depending on how close you sit the engine to the firewall:

    RKhJAOt.jpg

    Good luck :)
  • Thanks Sam. Not sure on the tunnel work yet. Have seen T-56 boxes in there without too much trouble. The trouble with that centre shift position is that it's too far forward relative to a T-56 and the hole in the floor. The TR box also has a more bulky rear extension housing than a T-56 that will require additional clearancing.

    At this stage the best option is looking like a shortened remote mount shifter. If not then yes, can mount a shifter directly as pictured and offset to the rear. No shortage of options with an LS and Tremec combo, that's for sure.

    Not too far from test fitting the engine/box now... Let the headaches begin! :)
  • Schweet!

    Thanks for stopping by and checking out my weak NA 6.0 build :)
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    Unsure how it's weak if you get out driving on the road quickly and its street legal... Looking forward to seeing progress!
  • alphaxMichael (@alphax) Melbourne
    edited April 19
    Engine is just sitting there in the car so I can move it around for the next week or so... Have been stripping the front of the car and cleaning it. I'm amazed how clean and original this car is. In all the front end parts, not a single piece of hardware was missing or different from stock. Normally a flat-head self tapping screw or an odd bolt would have found it's way in there over all this time!

    I'm rebuilding the manual pedal box I have at the moment and modding the firewall to suit. I'm using a Wilwood Master Cylinder so will have to get a a little creative.



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    Klaptrap24
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