RSB 244 v1.1
Over the past year I’ve been planning and organising what I want to do to get the 244 back on the road. It’s been sitting in the garage for 2+ years and I’ve missed having a fun car. But the plan has changed from doing the minimum to get it running, to going into the very deep end. So I thought I may as well try documenting it here again. As the build of the car has changed, I’ve started a new thread for a fresh start.
I gave up with the kjet turbo. The reason was me being completely inexperienced and basically not knowing how to make it all work. I tried and tried and then just stopped, so hence why it’s been sitting since.
I should say, since the kjet build attempt I have bought more tools and welding machines and have been honing my skills. So I’m confident going forward I can make this stuff happen. I also have a daily now so there is no rush to get this running either.
The new plan is to upright mount the red block for an easy solution to make room for the turbo. I have a feeling the mounts I have made will be too extreme for a street car. They will do for now, but in the future I think I might make new ones incorporating a softer rubber bush to absorb some NVH. I have been in contact with a mod plater and have discussed these mounts. I am yet to take these mounts to him to verify he's happy with them.
T5 is to go behind the red block. The E series rear case does not fit nicely in a 240 without having to modify the tunnel. My body work skills are nil so I’ve opted to get a mustang rear case. Still need to make a mount for the gearbox. The crossmember is low because I am hoping to route the exhaust between the body and crossmember to keep it up nice and tight. The box in the picture is a ford 6 pot box I’m using for mockup. I have the close ratio ford v8 box on the bench.
Inside the cab I’ve removed all ac, heater core and blower motor setup. That is where I will mount the ecu. The bracket is not final, I need to figure out how I am going to plug the vent for where the blower motor was. If you can see in the picture the surface is not flat so sealing it is going to be difficult. Think I should mount the ecu on rubber isolators too.
90% of the wiring has been removed. The only original wiring I am leaving is the wiper-washer, indicator, ignition barrel circuits and the harness that goes to the rear of the car. The main reason for this was I wanted to get the fuse panel away from the original location.
That might bring us to present day, though I feel like I’m forgetting something. At the moment I’m alternating between wiring and making an intake. I had a run through with the runners and head flange today. I originally was trying to make it like the kjet intake where all the runner flanges are separate. Not sure why I wanted to go with that design though, I made that decision months ago however I will change to using a one piece flat bar for easier fab and flange machining.
Looking good! Can't wait to see further progress...
Wow over a year ago I started this thread 😬 Been busy with life & things, and the car... Well I've been working on slowly but the bastard - something goes wrong every time.
Anyway I had been practising welding and fab for a while and as I was getting more confident, the list of things I wanted to make grew. I thought hey I want to give making a turbo manifold a crack. At which point I also decided I wanted to put the motor back in the slant position. I'll get back to the turbo manifold.
Last time I left off on making the intake and wiring... Wiring I've completed inside the cabin. Just need to do engine bay.
For the intake I ended up drawing a CNC flange in CAD and sent the file to china to be machined.
Long story short, while I was welding it up I got distracted and when I came back I wasn't watching myself and knocked it of the table doing this.
As of yet I haven't gone back to the intake, this was back in March this year. I will once I order some new material. I was frustrated to say the least.
In the mean time I've tackled the turbo manifold. I thought having a bottom mount setup would be pretty dope and allow for more room from the master cylinder & steering column but as you'll see I made things much worse and created more issues too lol. In the photos you'll see I started with one design then changed it to what it is now.
After all that work I really have no idea what to expect from it. It looks cool sitting there though I have no idea if its feasible long term. For a start some welds aren't great as it's my first time doing this kind of thing. Other issues are...
It is sitting out there a fair bit, there's a lot of leverage there. I'm going to have to brace it with a rod/heim joint thing.
Will have to weld a 90* bend onto the water pump inlet to get it away from the turbine housing.
I don't believe there's enough of a gradient in the oil return for the stock return location on the block. I've seen Kenny Howard with his gold car drill and tap in the centre of the block which would fix the issue. I've even contacted him asking about it and his response was there is no problem with it.
It's fairly close to the strut tower, I think the solid mount brace from yoshifab or making my own would keep it from making sweet love to the strut tower.
It's very close to the master cylinder. I can make a heat shield to fit between it all and wrap the manifold, but I don't know if that would be enough to tame the heat. Otherwise changing the booster and/or master cylinder for something more compact would fix it.
The v band flange for both turbo and wastegate warped so will have to cut it off and try again. Spewing about this because I have spent WEEEKS on this thing and just want it finished already.
On the other side of things there's plenty of room for a downpipe. Totally worth it.
Made my intake. Opted for the cylindrical type plenum for simplicity.
Inlet manifold - a fine piece of initiative, and well executed.
Custom turbo Exh manifold - feedback - Your creative mind and impressive pratical skills is in this case making extra work and complication. A concern is the excessive runner length that diminishes the exhaust pulse pressure and heat energy advantage required to really spin the turbo up constantly. The runner length is creating turbo lag by design. If the engine ran 'between' say 8,000 rpm and 16,000 rpm it would work efficiently, but 1,500 to 5,500 rpm not much.
On the turbo manifold - there are two issues that have made me want to make another one, very likely in the traditional style you have referenced. One issue is the turbo is too low to have a functioning oil drain (a detail I overlooked when I was making it). I could use a scavenge pump, but at that point it just adds to the cost and complexity... The other issue is I'm worried about the longevity of it with the turbo hanging awkwardly so far away from the motor.
On your feedback, I do agree. However, Jens Gustavsson wrote about his design for the extreme manifold on KL Racing and the why's. I was essentially following his ideas with the long runners. Albeit that design was intended for larger turbos. My runners were all pretty even at 500mm iirc, maybe 450mm.
Good to see you making progress and learning a lot. With respect to registering it and getting it engineered you will need to ensure some method of demisting the windscreen which will require some form of heater now that you have removed heater and aircon. 12V hairdryers are an option but check with your engineer.
Thanks Dave. I wish I wasn't so gung ho with everything. I'm prob going to track down a blower assembly and move the ECU for simplicity...