240 Looking for experiences with 240/260 strut braces

Hi All,

I assume many have used them. What are the good ones, the ones to avoid and any suggestions.

Ideally I am after an adjustable one as there is no camber adjustment left on the chassis and it wants to be pulled in a little.



  • Mig welder, a bandsaw and a tubing notcher and roll your own

  • I am none from 3 on that score. And in reality do not even know what a tubing notcher is - though I guess it notches tubes :-)

  • Your not going to be able to move the strut tower more than 1-2mm at most so trying to correct any form of camber issue from the strut tower movement isn't going to happen, you can adjust the camber/caster from the stock slotted holes and also from running adjustable strut top plates

    The factory strut braces do good work, otherwise just look for a strut brace that ties into the firewall, if the braces does not tie into the firewall its more show than go in 240 land

  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    edited March 9

    Few cars need a strut brace less than a 240. (Disclaimer: I believe that most people hugely over-estimate/over-state the importance of strut braces in general).

    The factory braces that run back to the firewall are good for avoiding fatigue on rough roads, but most Aussie cars had them factory fitted (people in the US and some parts of Europe get excited by them because they were a relatively rare option there).

    Adding a brace from tower-to-tower is not a waste of time, but don't expect handling miracles. If you must do it, something that is made of a beefy cross-section, is as straight as possible, and does not include bolts and definitely does not include heim joints will work better than anything that has any/all of those things.

    The vast majority of aftermarket strut braces are purely cosmetic. If you bolt it to one tower and can move the unbolted end by hand, then you have to ask what it is really doing for the car's structure...

Sign In or Register to comment.