940 & 960 "Ron", Burgundy Volvo 940 GLE [1993]

1235»

Comments

  • Accessory bushings worn out? Otherwise correct tension, good quality belts and check the pulleys

    bgpzfm142
  • Yep, accessory bushings. And a remote possibility the crank pulley rubber has deteriorated.

  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress

    The A/C pulley had quite a bit of pitting from rust on it. I wire wheeled and sanded it back as best I could, we'll just have to see how it goes. I did the tensioner bushing for the compressor but it still needs the lower ones replaced, I think there's three of them.

    The alternator belt was fine.

  • It's been a while since I've posted updates so let's see..

    30th Dec we blew upper radiator hose connection. It took a month of drama ordering parts from US but we now have a brand new nissens 65538A radiator, new upper and lower radiator hoses (by Gates) and a new coolant tank by Rein because the old tank was really stained from bad coolant sitting for 9 years.

    We also did another oil and oil filter change because the engine oil smelled a bit cooked after overheating from radiator dumping the coolant out.



    Replaced the right hand side marker light, no longer hangs out of the car like a dangling eyeball.

    Replaced the brake pedal cover which was showing bare metal, I'm surprised that passed blue slip..

    Front left indicator stopped working so we checked it out, seems due to corrosion on the connection point rather than a blown bulb. Popped in new bulb, works fine. Done!


    Today I discovered a new brand of starting trouble, cranks consistently and sometimes starts but then dies out. Able to start up when I give it a little acceleration (up to say 2-3k revs) and then it is able to stay running. Got James to have a look around and found the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm has failed, needs a new FPR.



    In regards to detailing:

    bowdens own carnauba wax can be put on in the hot sun (they said so, and I've tested it) but good fecking luck if you put it on your car on a warm night, the stuff doesn't dry so you can't buff away.

    Bowdens own paint restore actually did a great job with my dark red paintwork but it still probably needs real cutting power.

    Used the 2 step leather care system from bowdens own on my seats and noticed absolutely no difference, but now I own them so I may as well use them.

  • I used this on Rons Melbourne twin and it works a treat


  • @DecimalDuck

    @Spac should have a spare drivers seat or 2 from his rally car project, if you can do a deal with him I can get it transported for you in the next 4-5 weeks for free

  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress

    Flushed 2L through Ron's transmission (AW71 for folks playing at home). Good god the old ATF is dank as all hell, for a moment I was looking at it thinking who filled this thing with gear oil. It's opaque and brown, however there is fairly minimal glitter.

    The gearbox improved a little after that 2L so given how bad the old fluid is I think next step is do a proper flush hose-on-radiator style.

  • Do the first flush with cheap mineral atf and drive it around 5000km then flush it again with synthetic and it should be good for another 100,000km


    You need 16-20L of fluid for the flush

  • The seat cushion can be swapped with a passenger's side one. It's a bit of messing around with bolting and unbolting seat backs, mounting frames and brackets, etc, but it can work a treat - passenger side cushions are often not as worn as driver's side ones.

    If you luck out with Spac in the search for seats, @pigdog may have one.

    Then there's also this car on Facebook, which may have a good passenger's side one.

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/559783677943985/

  • pigdogdave (@pigdog) Wollongong NSW

    I haven't got one sorry a mate of mine might if you get stuck I can hit him up I think they are also in pretty poor condition too though

  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress

    Also I don't think @DecimalDuck reported I ran a warm compression test (all plugs out) to just make sure she wasn't pouring money into a lost cause and the engine appears to be essentially healthy:

    1. 150psi
    2. 154psi
    3. 154psi
    4. 150psi

    Bear in mind my comp tester gauge only marks 5psi intervals.

    DecimalDuck
  • Was that with WOT?

Sign In or Register to comment.